336 Trigger Swap

[Lefty SRH]

Lefty SRH How did it fail?

It wouldn't set at full cock and would fire at half cock.

[TXGunNut]

IF you go here http://www.leverguns.com/articles/Ma...nformation.htm There is a wealth of information on how to massage your guns so that they run much smoother. Believe me anyone who can operate sandpaper and a file can do the work. You can go as deep or as light as you want on the tweaking, from just smoothing the action out to full race. Just smoothing the actions out by deburring the internal parts is night and day difference. -W.R.Buchanan

Thanks, Randy. Just happen to be putting together a 30-30 336 "race gun" for porcine population control. As you may recall it has the Bushnell TRS-25 dot scope and I'm trying to prove to my brother that he doesn't need a MSR in 30 cal to drop multiple piggies in one engagement. Gun feels like new, very tight but very smooth. No noticeable burrs but a little polishing and some speed-oriented springs may help prove my point.

[TXGunNut]

Trigger breaks @ 4 #s. Feels quite a bit lighter, was sure it was just under 3. Old scope having the same issues as the new one, something just isn't right here. Time to check everything and put another scope on there.

[Jailer]

TXGunNut, I've got the same trigger in my 1985 SBL and you're assessment is spot on. Zero creep and a nice light crisp break. The stock trigger wasn't too bad but had a bit of creep that I didn't care for.

A Brownells "Reduced Power Spring kit" for the gun will make a lot of difference in the trigger pull as well.

IF you go here http://www.leverguns.com/articles/Ma...nformation.htm There is a wealth of information on how to massage your guns so that they run much smoother. Believe me anyone who can operate sandpaper and a file can do the work. You can go as deep or as light as you want on the tweaking, from just smoothing the action out to full race. Just smoothing the actions out by deburring the internal parts is night and day difference.

All the Marlins work exactly the same way so what is true for a 336 is true for a 1894-1895 etc.

If I can be of any assistance just let me know, and that goes for the rest of you also.

Randy

That link does provide a bunch of great info and was a great help when you suggested it to me after I purchased my Marlin. Be advised though if you do install the reduced power spring kit will likely have light primer strikes with certain brands of primers. I had to switch to Federals to get reliability back as it was hit and miss with Winchesters standard large rifle primers. Small price to pay for the excellent trigger you get from it.

[geargnasher]

Question: Does this WW trigger set the hammer spur further back at full-cock than the factory one? I have a 1955 336 in .35 and as far as I can tell it hasn't been messed with inside, but the hammer rides the bolt most of the way both directions (like an overzealous trigger job), much more than a simple hammer-nose job will fix.

Gear

[TXGunNut]

It may, Gear. I didn't compare them closely but that would make sense to my minimal understanding of the sear engagement. Sorry.
I can't recall the member's name who works @ WW, he was a pretty active poster this past summer. There was a thread about the WW Marlin magazine follower and he posted in it. He or Lefty maybe able to give a better answer, couldn't give much worse.

[Jailer]

Gear, my trigger does not set the hammer back further than the stock trigger does. It still drags across the bottom of the bolt. The reduced power hammer spring is reduced enough that it lightens the drag to the point that it's negligible. Lever effort is reduced quite a bit with just this one change.

[popper]

I like the WWT for the 336 but I wish they would make a sear for it.

[GaCop]

I won't scope a Winchester but Marlins seem OK with them. When I was younger I didn't need a scope and didn't appreciate good irons sights. Now I like irons but have difficulty using them. Youth is wasted on the young.

Amen! Amen!