Crimp recomendation for Alliant 2400, Fed LP primer 240gr LSWC 44 Magnum

[Animal]

Hey guys, I'll be working up a new load with the Lee 3 die set. I'll be seating/crimping in separate operations. With 2400 and LP primer, will a light to moderate crimp do the job for my Ruger SRH? Thanks guys.

[Larry Gibson]

I generally use a heavy roll crimp with 2400 magnum loads in the 357, 41 and 44 magnum cartridges. A more consistent ignition is generally the result.

Larry Gibson

[leftiye]

44s generally recoil pretty good unless they are loaded down quite a bit. In revolters you'll need a good crimp to prevent bullet pulling and locked up cylinders. Some powders need the good crimp to help with ignition uniformity. 2400 isn't that sensitive in this regard, but you still need the crimp. I use a good (heavy might be the same word) crimp regardless when loading 44s. Light crimps are touch and go at any rate. I don't make the crimp any deeper than where the crimped part down in the groove starts to straighten out and make a new tube shape.

[kenyerian]

Here is another vote for a heavy roll crimp.

[BruceB]

Yep, no question that a heavy roll crimp is the routine to follow. The case mouth should be crimped so deeply that the EDGE of the brass is completely rolled into the crimp groove, so that no part of the edge can be felt with a fingernail.

Make sure that the case doesn't form a bulge behind the crimp, which could impede or prevent the chambering of the cartridge.

Heavy crimping may reduce case life by causing the case mouth to crack sooner than you might expect. Keep a close watch for this. Reduced case life is just one of the costs of shooting heavy loads....

[DanM]

Definitely roll crimp your 44s. One thing I have learned is that it is more effective to roll the case mouth right against the bottom edge of the crimp groove rather than 'somewhere in the middle' of the groove. That way there can be no boolit motion at all until after the hammer drops on the chambered round....DanM

[Sven]

All good advice ^^^. I was trying to come up with a good discription of too heavy of crimp, and I think leftiye has it right in post #3. Good job on deciding to seat and crimp in seperate steps.

[DanM]

All good advice ^^^. I was trying to come up with a good discription of too heavy of crimp, and I think leftiye has it right in post #3. Good job on deciding to seat and crimp in seperate steps.

Sven....Could you explain why it is better to seat and crimp in separate steps? I heard that the separate crimp step is a must with 44-40, but never understood the need for it in, say, 44 mag or 45Colt. Mine loads work fine seating and crimping in one step, but I am always interested in learning something new....DanM

[TXGunNut]

Sven....Could you explain why it is better to seat and crimp in separate steps? I heard that the separate crimp step is a must with 44-40, but never understood the need for it in, say, 44 mag or 45Colt. Mine loads work fine seating and crimping in one step, but I am always interested in learning something new....DanM

I'll take a swing at that, if you don't mind.
The thinking behind seating and crimping in separate steps is that when doing both at the same time the boolit is moving in the case while crimp is being applied and the driving band below the crimp groove may be damaged. When the boolit is seated before the crimp is applied the boolit below the case mouth is not affected as much or at all. I don't feel it's as important with a light crimp but it seems to help wth heavy crimps.

[DanM]

TXGunNut....Thanks for your reply! I am just trying to understand the concept here. Sounds like the concern is that the lip inside the seater will start rolling in the case mouth before the crimp groove is pushed down to it and maybe shave some lead off the driving band before rolling into the groove? Do I have it right? I am pretty sure that I have an extra seating die available for my straight wall carts. I assume that in a progressive press the stem would be removed from the second seater and it would be adjusted to apply the crimp after the first seater properly seats the boolit?...DanM

[TXGunNut]

That's correct, Dan. You can possibly use a die from another set to seat the boolit, just back off the seating stem on the die you use for crimping.

[Sven]

Dan and TX, looks like you pretty much have it! I've buggered up too many cases doing a heavy roll crimp on a hunting load while doing both at the same time. I bought a Dillon crip die, but if you have another set of dies, that will work. I started out on a single stage press and would seat 100 rounds, then re-adjust and crimp.

[jmort]

Unless you have a single shot, a poor crimp can allow bullet jump and your revolver jams. I agree with the separate dedicated crimping step. A good roll crimp should not be "proud." Mike V in Lyman's 4th says he checks them with the edge of his finger nail, it should not catch going over the crimp.

[TXGunNut]

Good points, Sven. Bulging the case mouth with a moving boolit or a too-heavy crimp is just as bad or worse than an insufficient crimp.