yes the threaded plug is a way better idea then welding. after seeing the pic up close it would be the only way to go.
yes the threaded plug is a way better idea then welding. after seeing the pic up close it would be the only way to go.
Could you not just drill out the old holes and put a large nipple in there? You could always make new nipples that were larger for it if you couldn't find any that would fit. They are not that hard to make if you have a lathe.
First buy a lathe and a milling machine and then get a rotary table and then... Converting a cylinder is pretty easy but making one from stock is not. I have converted cylinders with basic blacksmith tools but have never tried to do one from scratch.
Yep my investment in a milling machine and lathe was a very expensive endeavor but one that I would not trade. The cost of tooling cost as much or more than the tools so that is something to keep in mind for the prospective buyer. I also bought a large CNC lathe a few years back. Still trying to figure it out.
I don't think there's enough metal left in the hole to thread for a larger nipple.
THAT is a considerably less complicated cylinder than it could have been.
The lack of need for accurately located sets of notches, and the fairly complex set of cuts for the indexing pawl to rotate the cylinder, makes this one a bunch easier to build from scratch. Not a trivial project, but not near as much fiddly stuff to deal with as say a modern revolver or at least, more modern.
The stud on the back will need to be accurately indexed to the chambers, the angled cuts are pretty straightforward and the rest is just a bunch of basic machining operations.
Not something I would do for others, but with some spare stock in hand, I could see working through that in a bunch of evenings. Lots more thinking and set-up time, than actually cutting material.
Cheers
Trev
Bore it out wire weld it and re machine.
I am a skilled pipe welder (39yrs) and that could definitely be successfully welded by a skilled TIG welder with a 1/16" tungsten and a gas lens. Most machinists have welders they can go to (and vice versa) and it would need to be machined both before (to clean and bevel it) and after (to clean it up and re-drill and tap). You would have to explore whether it would be cheaper to plug and redrill or weld and redrill but either way a skilled craftsman can get that gun firing again for you. Great gun too!
Well I can do both, being a retired tool & die maker I have a small machine shop next to my home.
If you can't find someone else pm me.Don't need the work, but will help you out if need be.
Ha,Ha, Roy I think your there also my friend.But the worst part of retirement NO ONE ever,
thinks about? You NEVER get a day off.
Fly
Last edited by Fly; 07-13-2013 at 07:28 PM.
An old Cherokee was teaching his grandson about life. "Inside me two wolves fight," he told the boy.
"One is evil - he is anger, envy, greed, arrogance, self-pity, resentment, lies, false pride, and ego. The other is good - he is joy, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, generosity, truth and faith. The same fight is inside you - and every other person, too."
The grandson thought for a minute and asked,"Which wolf will win?"
The old Cherokee replied, "The one you feed."
Would there need to be any type of heat treatment done to the cylinder after TIG welding? Would welding change the heat treatment?
That cylinder is low carbon steel.But I see no need to Tig weld it when installing a plug.
Fly
I was thinking that originally the cylinder might be case hardened, but I know very little about black powder era revolvers.
I also wasn't sure if the steel used would be closer to low or medium carbon steel. Seems to me that something like 1018 would wear really quickly at locking bolt notches or at the cylinder hand ratchet without some sort of case hardening, but I really have no clue.
My first instinct was to TIG weld it, but I can see putting in a plug would prevent any odd things from happening to whatever heat treat, if any, this thing once had. You also avoid porosity problems and other related headaches.
I find this stuff really interesting, so thank you for the response. I really enjoy the looking at projects like this and turning it all over in my head. Sometimes, I learn a little. Other times, I get inspired.
I agree totally Fly. In my mind, we were discussing an "either/or". And yes, whatever heat treatment is done to a cylinder (I am no gunsmith) would need to be duplicated. TIG welding would remove it, at least partially, depending upon how skilled a welder you found, if a heat treatment is used on a cylinder. Cool gun, though! I envy you your problem!
Would have to check dimensions but it might be such a thing as you could cut the plug to a 1/8" NPT size. This would allow you to make up the plugs tapered and really get a tight , locking fit to the inserts.
Just a idea ???????
Facta non verba
Lovely piece. Best wishes on getting her up and running.
Just got contacted today by a gentleman who has 2 original Remingtons but only 1 cylinder. Apparently the Italian repros will not work. I am thinking about taking on the project. Working on figuring out the jigs and fixtures I am going to need and seeing how much of it I can mesh with my instruction at the Community College. May be kinda' cool. Fortunately he is not in any hurry that I know of and I told him I would like to make a print off of the original cylinder he has.
Dave
In 100 years who of us will care?
An armed society is a polite society.
Just because they say you are paranoid does not mean they are not out to get you!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |