Question about Small Motor to run lathe SLOWLY when threading

[oldred]

capable of taking the spindle rotation speed down to zero with a quick flick of the wrist on a large pot.

only way it will be acceptable is by making it instantaneously change speed via large pot, all the way down to zero rpm. For sure.

Using a large pot (potentiometer) to try to control speed of a motor subjected to varying loads would be an exercise in frustration! Simply using resistance to slow a motor just does not work unless the load remains constant and even then it's not a good idea, you really need a motor speed controller to keep the motor speed at the setting you want and keep the torque in a usable range, attempting to do this by using a simple resistance circuit will result in erratic motor speed and loss of torque with even minor load changes.

[trevj]

Using a large pot (potentiometer) to try to control speed of a motor subjected to varying loads would be an exercise in frustration! Simply using resistance to slow a motor just does not work unless the load remains constant and even then it's not a good idea, you really need a motor speed controller to keep the motor speed at the setting you want and keep the torque in a usable range, attempting to do this by using a simple resistance circuit will result in erratic motor speed and loss of torque with even minor load changes.

Uhh... The pot in this case, is what tells the speed controller what speed to run at.
Might want to do a refresher on these little machines before you tell folks that it does not work.

The speed controller off the treadmill as shown, uses buttons and programming, to provide the speed control. The older style used the same pot as many of the mini-lathes and mini-mills have used.

Cheers
Trev

[DoctorBill]

Just to inject a bit of humor - remember what Dirty Harry Callahan (Clint Eastwood) said.....
"Opinions are like A__ H___s - everybody has one"

Question - my WESLO controller board has a small input PC Board underneath a HUGE input
DISPLAY that uses GREAT BIG push buttons on a Wall Picture Sized frame.



The PC Board is not all that big...



If I take the PC Board out - can I replace those big Finger Pads with small push buttons ?
Ignoring all those memory and programming things ?
Problem is - How do I access behind that FRONT plastic panel - looks glued or welded
together - don't see ANY access to it from the front or back side.

I could mount it on the Wall above my Lathe ! Ugggg.


Looks like a Star Trek Control Room Panel !

I just want START - STOP - SPEED UP - SLOW DOWN.

After all, they are just making electrical contact - no magic stuff....I hope.

The problem would be figuring out which flat wire on that flat flexible wire thingie
is what.....I'd have to lose the LED display - I think.

DoctorBill

PS - some kid here in a shop class in Spokane, WA got mashed up by a Lathe
a couple of days ago. Wasn't killed, but it tore up his arm and his ribs on one side.
Damn - these things are so dangerous and can hurt you so fast !

[Whiterabbit]

Absolutely! You can even replace the up and down arrows with a digital knob, seeing as all it does is produce a series of clicks. That would be a little more involved than replacing buttons, but could definitely be done.

Anyways, the board is accessed by the top. The top, as you see it, has a thin plastic cover that acts as a switch membrane. You have to peel that off. It's a 1 time deal, it'll destroy the face when you do that.

Any you'll have to fabricate a new box to house all the circuits including the LCD.

But you can use whatever switch you want. When you peel it off you will find either tactile switches under that that you just either desolder or solder extra wires to, or you will find a conductive pad on the plastic switch membrane and exposed contacts on the board that you'll solder wires to.

It's actually quite straightforward. You'll have to snag some solder out of your lead casting bin

[Whiterabbit]

on another note, holy smokes you keep your lathe clean. I could clean my lathe for an hour and not remove chips from every crevice and crack all over the place.

you also need a 4 ft florescent tube fixture or two over the lathe

[DoctorBill]

WhiteRabbit - do you know of any web links that show those kind of
input panels that have been opened up ? What that looks like ?

Someone here on this forum (might have been Buckshot) said he keeps a small
shop vac by his lathe and vacuums up the swarf before it gets too deep.

So I do that. It seems to keep the swarf under control - otherwise you'll find it
in your socks and underwear and your coffee and in your wife's ______ !

I still see shiny little flecks in the carpet all over the house.

You know the old saying -
"You can tell what a person is by the appearance of their desk."




Other stuff - I just bought a 303 Converted Martini-Henry on GunBroker
and bronze brushed out the barrel. Got enough brown-black stuff to plant
in a flower pot with. Interesting note - Rubbing Alcohol as a solvent got
most of that stuff out ! Different things require different solvents....
I hope that it hadn't experienced very much Chordite !

Then I opened up the Breech and got the rust out with Hoppe's No. 9 which
is an excellent rust dissolver !

I think the Rifle had been a Gun Case Queen and hadn't been cleaned in
75 years.....the barrel seemed to have cob webs in it. Enfield Rifling "E".
Muzzle mics out at .309 ! Have to slug it soon. Hope the chamber isn't
widened out - the chamber looks bright and shiny metal.



DoctorBill

[Whiterabbit]

tried, and no. Cant find it on google. But here are the products themselves:

http://sztdms.en.alibaba.com/product...ufacturer.html
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/pvc-...tch-panel.html

You just take a blade and carefully lift the sticker off. I'm betting if you investigate the black border around the buttons, you'll find it is a PVC label, peel-offable. usually, that destroys the overlay. But you of course wont need it after removal.

The only reason I am sure of any of this is because of been-there-done-that.

[Willbird]

I should have grabbed some of the motors and speed controls when surplus center had them . They sold the whole ball of wax in one package. One issue with it was that you had to reset the speed EVERY time you turned it on and off, there was a small soldering project fix for that as I recall.

[DoctorBill]

Sometimes - all this complicated stuff for our benefit becomes too much !

Simple is often better. Like me - I am simple.....

DoctorBill

[Whiterabbit]

Just like all the work you are going through to make the speed control work. So complicated! For the express purpose of making your life simpler.

I once went through GREAT GREAT length to connect a single wire from the steering wheel of my car to the center console. I took apart my CD player faceplate, added an extra wire in there, routed it into the dashboard. Agonized for hours finding just the right combination of resistances in the ladder to simulate button pushes. And when I was done I very carefully painstakingly installed buttons on the back of my steering wheel to make a home made steering wheel control for the stereo.

Now that it is done it is intuitive and simple to use. I can control my stereo entirely without looking at it. Hands never off the wheel. It's brilliant and makes me a safer driver.

But when I tell people how I did it they say "man Steve, why don't just lift your arm the extra 18 inches and press the buttons on the CD player directly!"

[Cane_man]

Dirty Harry was a bullet caster

[DoctorBill]

Dirty Harry did cast a lot of bullets - here and there....and over there....it made his day.
Soft Lead or Copper Jacket ?

Do we not all work hard to make our lives easier ?
Why do we take so much time to mow lawns ? Who cares anyway ? But we do it and feel
guilty if we wait too long 'cause the neighbors might think we are lazy neer'do'wells....
Bronx Cheer !

Once my machinist friend, Gary turns my D/C motor shaft down to 1/2 inch and mills a
keyway into it. I can then consider making a mount for the motor on the lathe.
Then comes trying to put the controller and Input boards "Somewhere".

I almost go slow just in order to not be in a "Don't have anything to do" situation....
but mostly 'cause I am getting old (70) and going slow in the 'now' way I do things.

No "dirt naps" for me yet.

DoctorBill

[Cane_man]

70 old? come on DB, 70 is the new 40... get with wit it homie and dont take so many naps, you a burning daylight!

[DoctorBill]

This was off topic (303 Martini-Enfield) so I moved it to the Military Rifles forum.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ifling-Problem

DoctorBill

[DoctorBill]

303 Martini-Enfield - Post Moved to Military Rifles

DoctorBill

[trevj]

DocBill, since the front panel is connected to the board by a detachable ribbon cable, it'd seen a pretty straightforward job to map the pins on the cable with some time and a multimeter.

Like as not, one end or the other is the common ground trace, the rest are each to one of the contact pads under the front panel buttons.

Should be pretty straightforward to sit down and sort out which trace does what, and build yourself a set of switches that will replace the front panel altogether, with the wiring connected at the ribbon connector point, or you could add some jumpers off the races there.

With the control board you have, you are looking for a handful of momentary contact switches, maybe a couple of the centering type with the contacts at either side of travel, from whoever you can get them from, and if you can wire a tach to read back to the same panel, it'd make a pretty tidy setup, I think.

Cheers
Trev

[DoctorBill]

Radio Krap sells little tiny momentary contact button switches one could use
mounted on an Aluminum Panel.

I'm considering mounting both PC Boards underneath the Lathe Bench Top out of
the way of swarf and such with wires coming up the back side.

DoctorBill

[FrankG]

More on "Off Topic" 303 Martini-Henry (Martini-Enfield)......

J.S. Wolf in his book on reloading the 45-70 Springfield, http://www.4570book.info/,
told of having to clean an old 45-70 for over a month of brushing, wiping, repeat
day after day to get the baked in lead+residue out of old 45-70 Springfield's rifling grooves!

Well - from what I told about in my previous post, I came to the realization that that Martini-Enfield
is not "Shot Out".

How can it be if it had .303 Enfield Rifling and now slugs out to a SMOOTH .309 - .311 !?
Worn out would have worn lands and slug out to .313 to .314 or larger !

Those grooves HAVE to be filled with 100 year old Chordite-Lead-Copper residue hardened
to a steel like hardness.

So - I have plugged the Muzzle with a Rubber Screw Cap (Lowes) that seals it and have
poured a mixture of 1:9 Hoppe's No. 9 and Rubbing Alcohol into the barrel for a LONG,
LONG, LONG, LONG, LONG, soak !
Rubbing Alcohol worked best to get that Black/Brown residue out at first - I thought I was done ! Ha!

Ordering some Stainless Steel Brushes from Brownells.com to work that garbage out of those
grooves to expose the lands again.

DoctorBill

Have you ever used 'Sweets Bore Solvent ' ? Stuff eats copper real good !

[Cane_man]

Radio Krap sells little tiny momentary contact button switches one could use
mounted on an Aluminum Panel.

I'm considering mounting both PC Boards underneath the Lathe Bench Top out of
the way of swarf and such with wires coming up the back side.

DoctorBill

no don't go the the dark side with Radio $hack just get the part off evilbay and go on vacation for 4 weeks and then it will arrive from China and you can get back to work

[DoctorBill]

More Off Topic .....303 Martini-Enfield
Moved to "Military Rifles"

DoctorBill