Adventures in Lubrisizer Diemaking

[nhrifle]

I have one of the Chinese 7X12 lathes. When I first got it, cutting much of anything was a chore. I have heard these machine tools described as an assembled kit, and it pretty much describes mine. I have disassembled it, trued everything, lapped the ways and the gibs, and in the process gotten a nice education on lathe design and construction. After everything I have done, I can hold tolerances of .0002 to .0003". The only complaint I have is setting it up for threading. I would really, really, really like littlemachineshop.com to offer a quick change gear box for my lathe.

I have actually been thinking of making Lyman/RCBS sizing dies and offering them for sale to casters since they are so hard to come by lately.

[Gunor]

What steel do you use for die's

Hopefully free machining...

Sorry if I missed that.

Geoff in Oregon

[nhrifle]

I've used O1 a couple of times with good results

[DonOhio39]

I've thought about doing this, and wouldn't really think that free machining steel(like 12L14) would be durable enough?

BTW, I call myself a "garage machinist" - no formal training or experience, just fooling around in the garage.

As far as boring the hole, I intend to use a milling bit as my boring tool. I've done this before and it gives a really nice finish. It'd be tricky with small calibers, I bet.

I'm thinking, turn the exterior details first. Put the blank into the DA collet chuck and drill/bore the hole to size. Use a pin gauge to confirm correct size and use the gauge as the center plunger.

Any REAL machinists care to critique my plan of action?

Don in Ohio

[454PB]

I've been in this discussion before. I use cold rolled steel for mine, and do no hardening. Yeah, I know some dies (especially Stars) are harder than woodpecker lips, but the dies I made over 20 years ago have not changed dimensions after sizing thousands of boolits.

I also use the "center plunger" as a pin gauge, but you can't count on it 100%. It naturally has to be smaller than the ID of the finished die, but that allows some inaccuracy. I usually size the center punch .002" under the desired ID, and once it fits, use a lead slug to measure progress.

[DonOhio39]

454PB
Thanks for that information! Saved me from buying drill rod just to make dies with. I've got a 5 gallon bucket half full of various rod ends from 1/4 in to 1.125 dia. Some of them will end up sizing bullets before I'm done.

Don in Ohio

[wool1]

I've thought about doing this, and wouldn't really think that free machining steel(like 12L14) would be durable enough?

BTW, I call myself a "garage machinist" - no formal training or experience, just fooling around in the garage.

As far as boring the hole, I intend to use a milling bit as my boring tool. I've done this before and it gives a really nice finish. It'd be tricky with small calibers, I bet.

I'm thinking, turn the exterior details first. Put the blank into the DA collet chuck and drill/bore the hole to size. Use a pin gauge to confirm correct size and use the gauge as the center plunger.

Any REAL machinists care to critique my plan of action?

Don in Ohio

I bore the hole first, as that is the measurement I am concerned with. Then do my final honing after exterior is finished. Just my personal choice.....seems logical when I'm doing it. Lol. Here is a thread I recorded some pictures of. Usually I get finished then go, I should have taken pictures.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ie-for-a-Saeco

Have fun! I enjoy doing them as a break from what I should be working on.

[labradigger1]

Just when the whole world turned nuts after ct, i needed a .359 die for my 450 and 45's, broke out the old south bend 1918ish lathe and made one, not the prettiest but does the job, reamed to final ID.

[257]

why would i buy a die for 20.00 when i can buy materal drills reamers and lots of time making my own for me it's the challange i think

[rbuck351]

I too have been using my HF mini lathe to make sizing dies and gas check makers. I started with a returned 7x10 that I got for $235 then bought a 4 jaw chuck and a 7x14 bed extension kit from Little Machine Shop and realigned everything and now have a pretty fair little lathe. I too have been using cold roll for sizing dies and find it to be plenty hard for sizing lead bullets. For the gc makers, I have been using grade 8 bolts and 7x14 all thread, both of which seem to be plenty hard for working aluminum with no hardening. I was a little dissappointed to find my HF lathe doesn't cut 27 TPI to make the punches for the Star sizer but my old Craftsman 6x18 does so I'm good to go there as well. I bought 2 sets of adjustable hand reamers from Enco that cover from about 3/16" through 1/2" for less than $50 with freight. They are pretty slow going but leave a pretty good finish that slicks up nicely with just a little polishing with emery cloth. I keep telling myself I'm going to save money by making all this stuff myself but until then I guess the satisfaction of having the stuff I want when I want it is going to have to do.

[Doc Highwall]

It is not always about saving money, but making exactly what you need that works for your gun.

The big reward is out shooting guys at the range with their condom bullets at a much lower price with boolits you made that don't wear out your barrel like copper bullets will.

You can even brag that you don't have to clean your barrel as often as they do and still keep accuracy.

[USMC87]

Very informative thread, I think my friend who is a professional on a lathe will be busy making me some spare dies for my star.

[blikseme300]

It is not always about saving money, but making exactly what you need that works for your gun.

The big reward is out shooting guys at the range with their condom bullets at a much lower price with boolits you made that don't wear out your barrel like copper bullets will.

You can even brag that you don't have to clean your barrel as often as they do and still keep accuracy.

^^^^^------- As the man said.The satisfaction of making your own tools is priceless.