Old scale help needed

[s1120]

I'm a new reloader and piecing together my setup from all the stuff dad left me. I'm working with this scale And i tell you it might be old, but it sure is well made! Anyway other then missing the pan and hanger. ( I'm going to post a WTB add, but if anyone might have one laying around....) I'm looking for some instructions on how to adjust, read and use it. I've read about the newer ones but this is a bit diferent. Anyone have instructions, or can walk me through? Thanks!!!

[300winmag]

Attachment 68566If you want I can email to you so you can enlarge. If so pm me with your email and I can forward it to you.
300

[Safeshot]

You can order a pan and hanger from RCBS, or Ohause. The hanger just "hooks" in the small wire loop at the right end of the balance beam. The hanger is adjustable by adding or removing "lead shot" from the bottom cavity of the hanger to "zero" the balance beam with the pan in place on the hanger (level the base when you "zero" the scale). You might be able to find (Google) a "parts break down" and instructions on the "web" for the Lyman, RCBS or Ohause scales. They should lead you in the right direction. I cannot tell from the picture if the scale is "damped" (either oil or magnetic). If it "magnetic damped" it should be as easy to use and any scale. If it is "oil damped" it will still function well, but the oil "migrates" and is sometimes irritating. If it is not "damped" it will work just fine, but can be slow to weigh a charge. Good luck, the old Pacific Equipment is usually well made.

[300winmag]

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/...adingScale.pdf

[s1120]

Safe shot, its oil damp end I know they are a little slower to use, but I'm fine with taking my time with it as for adjusting the pan/hanger weight... I figure that was done by the nuts at the end.


300winmag. Thanks!!!!!! That's a huge help. Thanks you greatly!

[Pressman]

Pacific made by Webster. Same as the C-H scale. give them a call they may be able to help. RCBS pan and hanger will work but you will have to fiddle with the weights in the hanger to get it to zero.
Ken

[beemer]

The beam layout on your oil scales is identical to the newer magnetic scales. I have the Hornady-Pacific in oil and magnetic, the beam layout and pans are the same . A set from Hornady would probably be correct.

Dave

[wv109323]

As a cheap way to check the accuracy of your scale when you have it set up : A new penny weighs 38.581 gns. A new dime weighs 35.001 gns.

[daboone]

I have a 40 year old oil dampened Redding scale. Because of the oil and age I suggest taking a soft toothbrush and dish soap to the pivots and V-notches for some serious cleaning. it's a little slower than say a 505 but I find mine (also got it from my dad) very dependable and trustworthy.

[EDG]

The later model magnetically dampened scale sold under the Bair name brand has the same exact beam and poise arrangement. The was the must user friendly handloading scale that I ever owned. The hanger and pan should be the same. The beam is adjusted by moving the nuts at the end.

[C.F.Plinker]

Get your hanger and pan and install them. Level the base left to right using the adjusting screw on the left end of the base. Level front to back using strips of paper or business cards under the foot on the right hand end of the base. With nothing in the pan, use the nuts on shaft to adjust the beam so it stops at zero. Moving the nuts to the right will cause the beam pointer to settle out at a highter position. You want them to be together so they act as a jam nut so they won't move readily or you will have to do this every time. Once this is done, you can rezero by using just the adjusting screw on the left end of the base. If you have a set of check weights set the scale to whatever charge you are weighing, put that amount of check weights in the pan, and zero out using the adjusting screw. This way you are balancing out using the check weights as your standard.

[s1120]

I have a 40 year old oil dampened Redding scale. Because of the oil and age I suggest taking a soft toothbrush and dish soap to the pivots and V-notches for some serious cleaning. it's a little slower than say a 505 but I find mine (also got it from my dad) very dependable and trustworthy.

Yes Im planning a good cleanup of the old girl once I found a pan/hanger.

You know... some would say... "Well... just go pick up a new 505..or spring the 25 bucks for the Lee.." But you know... A) eaven as a newbee I can tell this is a very well made scale B) well... I have probelms trusting a 25 buck new scale made of plastic... C) Money doesnt grow on trees.... Im the type that will always do with what I have.. or make something to work. buying new is a last resort... and last.. D) This old gear I got left to me after dad passed.Its loaded TONS of rounds in his...and will in my day.. and maybe my girls will not be into it... but if so it will be there for them.

Thanks for the advice guys!!!

[La Dano]

I just bought a package deal from a fellow that passed last year. This scale was in the deal, old dirty but balanced as good as my rcbs. I too love and enjoy working with the built to last old tools. Got a Pacific press with it that looks a lot like a Rockchucker, but its aluminum. Gonna clean'em up spray a fresh coat of paint and put them to use. Glad to see the old stuff still working. Good luck

[s1120]

Well orderd up a generic pan and holder yesterday. Should work fine for this scale. Once I get that in, and make sure it works ill give it a good cleaning, and get her ready to work agean!

Off topic....but i also finly found a bullet knocker in stock! Ive been looking for one for a wile, and got one coming now. All I need is a crimp die for 38/357, and a case trimmer for my 22Jet, and im set!! [for starting up... we all know your never done looking for stuff. ]

[Le Loup Solitaire]

You can get the older scale to work very well with a substitute hanger and pan; the leveling nuts at the end of the beam can be used to level the beam and zero it. With the knife edges/cleaned and all dust removed then the next step is to check the beam readings with a set of check weights. A set of them is kind of pricey, but you can make your own either with coins or ordinary copper wire pieces that have been weighed on a lab or pharmacy scale. ID the weights so that there is no confusion afterward. If the knife edges/pivots and the "v's" that they ride in are clean and sharp then there is no reason for the scale to not work well. If the scale is equipped with oil dampening you could use that to slow the swing of the beam, but that feature is kind of messy to work with. I have two vintage Reddings and just use a pencil point to interrupt the swinging and slow it down. If your check weights consistently indicate that the beam is doing its job then you are in business. Beam scales from back in the day were well made and go reliably forever. Mine are 40-50 years old and never vary/wander. (But) I keep them honest with a set of check weights at very loading session. Just keep them clean and safely stored in a padded box when not in use. LLS

[fourarmed]

One little thing to watch: The zeroing apparatus at the right end of the beam is a threaded rod with two nuts jammed together. The threaded rod bears against the triangular shaft that supports the wire clevis that holds up the pan. If you loosen that rod, it is possible for the triangular shaft to rotate so that the knife edge doesn't face upward. If that happens, some very strange behavior will result. So if you have to move the jam nuts in order to get it zeroed with the new pan, make sure those points face upward and the threaded rod is tight.

[s1120]

One little thing to watch: The zeroing apparatus at the right end of the beam is a threaded rod with two nuts jammed together. The threaded rod bears against the triangular shaft that supports the wire clevis that holds up the pan. If you loosen that rod, it is possible for the triangular shaft to rotate so that the knife edge doesn't face upward. If that happens, some very strange behavior will result. So if you have to move the jam nuts in order to get it zeroed with the new pan, make sure those points face upward and the threaded rod is tight.

Thank you for the info. Ill keep a eye on it when I set it up.

[gwpercle]

Just as additional info, CH4D still makes this scale , except it is magnetic dampened, sells new for $77.60 all metal, made in USA and they can help with parts , instructions , pan, hanger etc.
Check out thier site lots of reloading tools and an American owned and run company to boot... nice folks to do business with and great prices. How they sell this scale for $77.60 is beyond me. They call it powder and bullet scale #48659.
Gary

[s1120]

Well I got back to trying to get this old girl up and running. I had picked up the new pan and hanger, and tried it out. The pan and hanger is way too heavy, and I cant adjust for it. I bent up a new hanger from wire that is much lighter, and its still too heavy with the pan on it. They pan is very light alloy... not real heavy. [though the hanger that came with it had some weight to it... ] Is there any other adjustment on it other then the nuts on the end? Next... leveling? OK, this may be dumb, and I might be a moron.... but how do you level it? I know how to adjust the level.. but what do you use as a measuring point? Any info for a newbe to a beam scale? I realy don't like the electronic ones..and want to put dads scale back to use.

[Pressman]

Call CH4D and get the correct pan and hanger from them. Depends on who made your pan, it could have a separate compartment on the bottom that has several tiny lead shot pieces. these can be removed to get the scale to balance.
Your scale was made by Webster and is oil dampened.
Ken