Many years ago, I had a chain fire, with nothing as a seal. I then had a roman candle effect with Crisco. Now I only use candle wax to seal the chambers and have had no problems firing after years of storage.
Many years ago, I had a chain fire, with nothing as a seal. I then had a roman candle effect with Crisco. Now I only use candle wax to seal the chambers and have had no problems firing after years of storage.
Thats a good idea! I'll try that, but I'll use beeswax instead, I think most candles are made from a petroleum based wax. But I guess it doesn't matter if you are only going to fire it 6 times.
I've never heard a first hand account of a chain fire. Would you care to offer more details, such as, one cylinder or more? What type and caliber revolver, brand and size of caps, type and weight of powder, injuries or damage? I know that is asking a lot and the memory may have faded, but I'm sure your experience and lessons learned would be of value to many of us.
Personally, I use over powder wads lightly lubed with bore butter as chain fire prevention in my .44 caliber 1858 Remington. Some say the wad is unnecessary. I say it is cheap insurance and helps prevent leading of the bore at no extra charge.
One of the first black powder guns I owned was a Colt Walker copy. I didn't know a thing about them. Had a chain fire of four cylinders. Exciting!
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
thanks for the advise so far.
i dont mind lending the gun for several reasons, the least of which is the gun cost less than $100.
the euroarms cylinders are tapered so there is no "lead ring" to indicate a good seal, so i need something to keep moisture out.
a good seal of the cylinders is important because the weather here is wacky. with heater on during the night and ac during the day. even modern firearms get rusted easly, and i have found condensation on guns during a power outage.
The cause was, I didn't know what the hell I was doing, and hadn't greased the cylinders. No injury at all to myself or the pistol. There were no bystanders, and considering the balls pretty much had to go more or less forward, wouldn't have proved a hazard from lead flying in odd directions.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Sgt. Earthworm,
Here's an article on capping & is omewhat applicable to chainfires where they create an out of battery discharge and test the flight of the ball in a C&B.
http://www.brimstonepistoleros.com/a...s/capping.html
Hellgate in Orygun
With 16+revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap&ball.
If you do not subscribe to a newspaper you are uninformed. If you do subscribe to a newspaper you are misinformed. Mark Twain
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
I have often kept a BP revolver for home defense or concealed carry. I've never had a problem with misfires. Make certain the pistol is very dry before loading. I use my wife's hair dryer to be absolutely certain it is dry before loading. Load with FFFG Goex or Triple 7, Remington caps and put crisco over the bullets. I do not use lubricated wads or any lube on the bullet. This has worked well with a 1858 replica, .36 Colt replica and the NAA Super Companion. In the NAA I prefer 777 otherwise I use FFFG Goex.
I have also kept a 12 ga SxS percussion gun loaded for extended periods of time with no problems.
I have never been a fan of Pyrodex.
Thanks for the link. I am curious as to whether there is anything common to chain fire incidents. Probably not a lot of data about it because it's pretty rare. I never grease the cylinders and have never had a chain fire, just want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for one. Plenty of excitement in my life, don't need any more.
Chain firing is argued to death on the BP C&B boards. My personal opinion is that most occur from the front from poor fitting balls (shaved out of round, casting defects, too small diameter, etc) or defects/irregularities in the chambers or chamber mouths. I find it hard to believe that the flame can get under a cap unless it is poorly fitted too. REAL POORLY fitted. I suspect some chainfires occur in brass frames after the recoil shield gets pounded in and dented enough to let the nipples contact the recoil shield when fired.
Hellgate in Orygun
With 16+revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap&ball.
If you do not subscribe to a newspaper you are uninformed. If you do subscribe to a newspaper you are misinformed. Mark Twain
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
wow great advice never left mine loaded for fear of miss fires
As a youngster (1960s) I used to shoot my father's original Remington. I have had chain fires several times. Never did understand why it never fired the chamber in the 6 o'clock position. I am glad it didn't. One of these days that gun is going to be mine along with the pair my grandfather had.
Last edited by lrdg; 01-28-2013 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Can't spell
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |