Bought this fullstock for $65

[frontier gander]

Ain't no one going to build a gun that ugly just to fire blanks in.

With the right combo, that 1:24 twist will shoot patched balls with decent accuracy. Just keep the powder charge low.

[RhodeHunter]

It's not 1 in 24.

[gandydancer]

It looks to me like one of the early 1970 CVA kits sold by dave silk when he first started CVA in CT and seems to me they where 1 in 66 twist for round ball.

[mooman76]

Do you know how deep the rifling is? It doesn't look deep from the pictures but pictures can be deceiving. The front site is odd, I have never seen one like that, they are usually dovetailed in those old ones. I have one similar. The breech looks about the same but it has a dovetail front site and the usual 1/66 twist. You could try some patched RBs to see how it does but I would go light on the load with that twist. Maybe start at around 30gr and work up. It doesn't look like it was ever fired or it was very little. A 45 mini may work best with that rifling. Remove the barrel and you might find some markings underneath. If you did deside to get another barrel it should be fairly easy to pick up a good used one.

[waksupi]

Quite frankly, a new barrel would cost more than the rifle is worth.

[RhodeHunter]

Well, I would like to learn how these things go together anyways, so why not learn on something that's valueless? I've got to start somewhere.

First I'll slug and measure to find rifling depth right? Then I'll proof test, followed by shooting with 30gr, etc.

Then remove the barrel.

This stuff's going to take me a while so don't expect any results anytime soon. I've got a lot of other stuff going on.

Thanks for all the help.

[frkelly74]

I had a Miroku that I got from a big variety store in the early 70's. It had the same brass joint hider where the fore stock attached to the rest of the rifle. It was hard to load.

[RhodeHunter]

The trigger had some rust on it, so I wanted to remove it and see if anything else in the lock was rusty. There wasn’t much rust inside so I just cleaned and oiled it. The sear spring (a V spring) broke in half, and so the trigger just flops back and forth. The lock plate has Spain stamped on it. All screw threads are metric, and I chased the threads using a Harbor Freight tap and die set. I learned that the tang screw goes down through the stock and screws into the trigger, which the original builder had some issues with alignment and was only having one or two screw threads holding it together. I worked at it until alignment was better and the screw could be turned farther in. I thought the trigger pull too hard, and so I filed the side of the tumbler where the sear rests to shorten the shelf. I just thought it would be less friction. I’m not sure this helped a whole lot. Maybe in retrospect, grease at that point would be better? I think the main spring is just too stiff. I polished the metal where the trigger engages the sear; I think that was the more effective job. This was my first attempt at a trigger job ever. I put a fishing scale to the trigger when done and it’s about 4 pounds which is still a little harder than I’d like it to be.

I sent the broken spring to Track of the Wolf, but they don’t stock Spanish lock parts and he returned my broken sear spring.

[RhodeHunter]

I wanted to check for proof marks under the barrel and to be able to read the serial number stamped on the side of the barrel, which was half-hidden by the stock. Driving the one pin out was difficult. I bent some finishing nails I was using as punches, and then I resorted to using a real punch that was just a little big. Of course the pin, now back in, is a little loose in its hole, but not so loose as to fall out. Of course I should have just stopped and gotten a bigger variety of punches, but as you know, this gun is not that valuable and is more of a learning tool for me. So with the tang screw out, and the pin out, the barrel came right off. No proof marks, only the word Spain stamped on the bottom. Does that mean it was ever proofed? I don’t know. I decided I was going to shoot it with a string, Mythbuster style. The serial number is 046833.

[RhodeHunter]

I couldn’t find any brass rod locally and so I bought steel rod at Home Depot and wrapped Teflon tape around it – worked fine. So I put the rod in the barrel, then with a wood dowel for a punch drove a .490 lead ball into the bore about 6 inches. After tipping the barrel three times, the rod drove the slug out of the barrel and onto a cotton bath towel. Measuring with the micrometer yielded the following results. Groove diameter is .457 and bore diameter is .453. The difference is .004 and so the groove depth is .002, pretty shallow. As a comparison, my Lyman Deerstalker manual states a groove depth of .008, and I am assuming there are other barrels with deeper grooves than that (I would like a chart of these when and if I could find some data). Some of the data I have read can be confusing because you don’t know if the person is dividing by 2 or not.

The rifling is 6 lands and 6 grooves of equal width, .002 groove depth, 1 turn in 12.4 inches.

[RhodeHunter]

I ordered three different boolits for trying out in the rifle, .440 rb, .433 rb, and .45 sabots with .40 bullets. Both shots for the proof test were using the .433 ball. The first shot was with 50 grains of 2F goex and one prb. The second shot was 70 grains of 2F and two prb’s. I was behind a large telephone pole (one of the columns of the rifle range) and yanked on the string. Voila, no bulging or damage to the rifle.

After that I tried the rifle offhand with all three ammo’s. Another day I’ll have to do some benchrest shooting with it to see what it does. The .440 and the sabot shot the best from what I could tell. Sorry I don’t have better data on the accuracy of this weird barrel. I’ll follow up when I get a chance to shoot it some more.

It still shoots without the sear spring, but I’m going to try and get one from Traditions. If the barrel ends up shooting accurately with anything, I will most likely replace the lock at some point down the road. And maybe someday make a new stock. We’ll see.

[sisiphunter]

Very interesting thread you have goin here. I'm gonna try to keep an eye on this one. I am just waiting to pick up my 45 cal cap lock. Looks kinda similar only with plain old Woodstock no fancy designs. IT is a jukar. Can't wait to see what she can do. Best of luck and keep us up to date. Thanks.

[waksupi]

You guys scare the hell out of me with those old Spanish guns, especially the Jukars.

[sisiphunter]

Hey the way i see it. My wife has paid more for a picture than i am for my jukar so if nothing more it would be a wall hanger. Polish up the brass and brighten the wood and she will look great over the mantle. I just like the long barrel and full wood stock. Mine just has a blonde plain stock too.

[mooman76]

I have a couple Jukars. They shoot pretty good for a cheap gun. The early CVAs and Traditions were Jukar. Also allot of other imports.

[waksupi]

I'll try to find the article with a sectioned Jukar barrel in it, for your amusement.

[mooman76]

I put together one of the earlier Jukar rifle kits. I bought it a few years ago still in the original box sold at Wards in 1974. It still had the receipt on it. All the parts were there too. It has the seperate section where the breech plug is. If I remember right the name Jukar comes from the city it was made in Spain.

[Boerrancher]

You guys scare the hell out of me with those old Spanish guns, especially the Jukars.

Ric my friend you worry too much. We have Obamacare now, so a trip to the ER is cheep now, right?


Rodehunter,

Check on Ebay for parts for those old Spanish made guns, there are lots of parts out there available. Maybe Ric is right and that is why there are so many parts.

Best wishes,

Joe

[RhodeHunter]

You guys are a riot. I put a bid on a lock on eBay but I don't know that it's for a Jukar or not. A lot of the locks don't have much in the way of description. The lock I bid on has a bridle so it's not as cheap as mine.