Ruger #1 Forend Bedding

[thehouseproduct]

Does anyone have any tips for bedding the forend? Did you bed the hanger or the rear where it touches the receiver too?

[Johnw...ski]

I have successfully built several single shot rifles and I have bedded the forearm on all of them for their full length. The main thing I watch for is where the forearm touches the receiver, I do not want any contact there and try to keep a space that is about the thickness of a sheet of paper. As far as the bedding of the forearm goes it really means nothing as long as there is even contact when the forearm is secured.

Good luck,

John

[stubshaft]

Are you going to put a wedge between the hanger and the barrel or a tensioning screw? This will have to be done BEFORE bedding the forend.

Like John said no contact between the forend and barrel either.

[thehouseproduct]

I haven't decided on the wedge or set screw. Are they recommended?

[375RUGER]

What kind of groups does your rifle shoot? nice clovers or strings? A setscrew with a bearing block will cure stringing. long time ago, 18 years, Ross Seyfried had a G&A article the about this mod. I can scan it and email it to you if you want. I've done it but it's not to be done with hand tools, a drill press minimum.
Easier is the Hicks Accurizer. Ed Brown has it.
Of course, if your rifle is a shooter then I wouldn't do anything.

Be generous with the release agent and don't get too much bedding compound in there either. If you do it will get inbetween the hanger and barrel and then you won't get it apart without having to chop your forearm.

[94Doug]

I had several articles about this same thing set aside for when I purchased my #1. Turns out the newer versions shoot much better out of the box than the old without these mods....so those magazines are floating around unused.

d

[stubshaft]

I haven't decided on the wedge or set screw. Are they recommended?

I've found them to be a welcome addition. It takes some experimenting to find out how much tension works for your gun. The set screw is easiest to adjust, but the wedge allowed me to move then pressure point anywhere between the barrel and the hanger.

When I bed my #1's I use a lot of modeling clay between the hanger bar and the barrel so no bedding compound can infiltrate that space. The key area is the base and sides of the hanger bar itself. Bedding anything else is fruitless.

This should give you some good ideas.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...seuo91OtdU9spw

[thehouseproduct]

To be honest, I haven't shot it yet. I just wanted to get the gunsmithing type stuff out of the way before I got through too many 220gr Sierra Match Kings in a 300 Win Mag figuring out that I needed to bed or fix stuff.

If I bed the forend to the hanger and float the barrel, I could add the shim later which would only increase the distance between barrel and wood correct?

[stubshaft]

To be honest, I haven't shot it yet. I just wanted to get the gunsmithing type stuff out of the way before I got through too many 220gr Sierra Match Kings in a 300 Win Mag figuring out that I needed to bed or fix stuff.

If I bed the forend to the hanger and float the barrel, I could add the shim later which would only increase the distance between barrel and wood correct?

NO, it would also increase the gap between the barrel and hanger slightly. It may not affect accuracy, but because of the design it would increase the gap.

[375RUGER]

I'd shoot it first because you may not have to do anything to it. I have some with the mod and some without.
Think about the hanger as a cantilever beam. It is fixed at one end and is deflecting at the other due to loading/unloading. When the hammer is cocked the beam is loaded, when you pull the trigger you unload the beam and it deflects. When the beam deflects the forearm moves with it because they are fixed together. See where I'm going with this?
If you are going to bed and float you should put a wedge or screw to stabilize the hanger/forearm. Otherwise, IMO, you will be doing a lot of shooting to discover that you need to setscrew/wedge the hanger.
You will also remove a lot less wood to get the barrel floated if the hanger is stabilized.
I know you can bed the entire forearm to the barrel and get good results but I'm not so sure you can float the forearm and get decent results.

[nanuk]

.....I have bedded the forearm on all of them for their full length.....
As far as the bedding of the forearm goes it really means nothing as long as there is even contact when the forearm is secured.....

John

.....
Like John said no contact between the forend and barrel either.

perhaps I'm missing something here..... John says he beds the forearm full length ALONG the barrel??

The main thing I watch for is where the forearm touches the receiver, I do not want any contact there and try to keep a space that is about the thickness of a sheet of paper.
John

[stubshaft]

Then John and I differ in our methods as the only thing that I want to contact the forearm is the hanger itself. NO, receiver contact and NO barrel contact, unless the hanger rocks to the point where the forearm contacts the barrel then and only then will I bed the barrel .

[Tatume]

Presently I own six Ruger No. 1 rifles in every model, including the RSI. All of them shoot extremely well, and no work has been done to the forends. It would be wise to shoot the gun, extensively, before modifying it.

[Lloyd Smale]

I agree. Last couple i had done were done with a screw and they shot there best after the screw was taken right out. Bad verticle stringing with both guns with any pressure on the screw at all. thing is i dont know why i even fooled with them. both were moa guns right out of the box with loads they liked.

Presently I own six Ruger No. 1 rifles in every model, including the RSI. All of them shoot extremely well, and no work has been done to the forends. It would be wise to shoot the gun, extensively, before modifying it.

[rbertalotto]

www.rvbprecision.com

In the firearm section

[nanuk]

Roy, can you tell me WHERE your firearms section is???

I must be blind.... I can't find it.

[rbertalotto]

Up at the top..........click on "Shooting"

Once this page opens, see down below..."Older Entries"


OR

Way up at the top...."Table of Contents"

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

SOP is and has been for a number of years, to bed to the under barrel hanger on the forend screw end, and two places back toward the action, then float the barrel.

No wood metal contact, and still strong and tight.

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[CPL Lou]

Found it !

http://rvbprecision.com/shooting/acc...e-ruger-1.html

Hope this helps.

[Four Fingers of Death]

I currently own three Ruger No1s and have owned them in the past. I have found that if they are accurate (which most are), great, leave them alone and if they are not accurate, sell them.

Some of my friends had trouble in the early days, but I haven't heard of any problems in the past 15yrs or so.

I know two guys, both experienced who were tearing their hair out trying to get their No1s to shoot and after a couple of attempts at bedding, etc, gave up and sold them. One guy used a well respected gunsmith and the othe guy has bedded many target and hunting rifles and he knows his oats.

No1s are a ***** beast and best not prodded, lol.