Would it be ok to tl a boolit that only has a single lube groove?
Would it be ok to tl a boolit that only has a single lube groove?
Sure, I do it all the time with several of my bullets. Works just as well.
Jerry
Carolina Cast Bullets
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Thanks. I have a lee mold right now but have been thinking about an noe mold. guess you just cost me $90. BTW I accept paypal
I've been using the 45/45/10 recipe on standard groove bullets for 38 special quite a bit lately. Works quite nicely.
Yes. Lee Liquid Alox was around for 30 years before the first "microband" boolit moulds were made.
Gear
I have also tumble lubed several non TL designed bullets with good results. I have used both the straight LLA and the 45/45/10 mixture in 38 Special, 9mm luger, 44 Magnum, and 30-30 Winchester to (1,500 fps). I will soon be trying the 45/45/10 lube for a Lee 145 SWC in 40 caliber. Both lubes are very effective but I have pretty much switched to the 45/45/10 mixture as it is much more user friendly. Good luck and God Bless......
Speak softly and carry a big stick... TR
Alox ( not necessarily Lee Liquid Alox ) was used in WW II as a rust preventative on ships.
Alox is nothing new.
Ben
Yes. I do it almost every day.
Rifle, Pistol, and revolver cartridges. All work well.
.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
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I would get leading in my 44 mag pistol using hardcast bullets started using LLA on them and would clean the lead out.No more leading while using LLA.
Horace
what type of lube were you using prior to LLA? Did you switch to straight lla, 45/45/10, or something else?
Sounds like I'll be tumble-lubing for sure.
Here's a goofy question, would there be any reason to pan lube and then tumble lube boolits?
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Not exactly, Ben.
Let's be accurate.
That was Cosmoline.
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+1 on the 45/45/10. I use it exclusevly in my 3 pistols and only one is a TL design. Now for rifle lube, that's a different horse altogether. I modified the 45/45/10 and mixed up some with 50% beeswax and this seems to work quite nicely for my rifles. BC
Jesus said, "I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father but by me."
Erik, I've got a few bore-riding boolits that I tumble-lube after I've run them through the lubesizer. Seems to help a bit with accuracy and I still get no leading. I don't do it often, though because I don't cast and load those boolits very much.
I've tumble-lubed commercially cast bullets though, but most of the time when I come across some I just toss them in the smelting pot.
Have done it often. Works very well for my applications.
SHiloh
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I use this formula on .69 Cal. roundballs shot in my original U.S. Model of 1816 Smoothbore from Harpers Ferry Arsenal in 1833 (percussion). I dimple the balls before tumble lubing.
It does NOT work on Minie balls in rifle/muskets, carbines, or other blackpowder carbines I've used. Have to go to my 1/3 beeswax, 1/3rd Bore Butter, 1/3 Crisco for those. Never tried it in the .44/40 Henry Rifle either. Seems that it is best used with smokeless powders only, the roundball excepted.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |