Repair question - Lee 4-20

[Roundnoser]

My 4-20 pot is giving me some troubles, and I'm wondering if someone has some experience with this issue:

On the top lip of the pot are a series of hex head screws. There is also a shoulder bolt (which is aactually a shouldered hex head screw) that guides the valve arm assembly. The holes that these screws go into are all stripped.

Of greatest concern is the shoulder bolt. Since it is suppossed to keeps the valve arm assembly moving straight up and down, it has to remain screwed down securely. In my case, the shoulder bolt has nothing to bite into and wobbles...thus the valve rod fails to close properly.

Anyone know what I can do to fix this? Is there something quick and easy I can inject into the holes to anchor those screws (must also be able to withstand the high heat). -- OR should I send it back to Lee?

Thanks, Jon

[geargnasher]

Here's what I did after the guide screw on the bottom "wallered" out the hole in mine and fell out after repeated tightenings: Remove all the screws in the top and bottom of the pot so you can lift the pot liner out and then remove the side and front panels of the outside of the pot. You'll see that the screws grip into rails in the aluminum, not actual holes. No wonder they strip and won't stay tight! I then take a screw and thread it into each "hole" so it nearly bottoms out, or is at least at the assembled, installed depth (note that the shoulder screws are a bit different depth from the rest of them), and peen the aluminum back around the screws. If you have a TiG welder, now is the time to weld them over, but if not simply peening the metal back around using the screw as a mandrel will do the trick. Reasemble and don't overtorque them. From now on, use Bullplate or Permatex high-temp brake caliper slide grease (green and white bottle) to lubricate the bushings on the "shoulder" screws, and also the outside of the spout where the valve carrier touches it. I did all this and never had a problem since, through many thousands of boolits.

Gear

[gasboffer]

I put some JB Weld on mine. Has been holding for several pots full. Keeping fingers crossed and operating valve handle gingerly.

[7of7]

I did about the same thing as gearnasher did.. Haven't had any problems,.. going to have to lube it with the bullplate though..

[high standard 40]

geargnasher and I obviously think alike. I did the same repair to mine about 5 months ago. Still going strong.

[Roundnoser]

geargnasher / fellas,

thanks. I'll give that a try. Lucky for me, I have a spare 4-20 for just this kind of emergency. Why have one, when you can have two for twice the price ! (I heard that line in a movie).

I'll let you know how it works out.

[seagiant]

Hi Jon,
I thought a fella like you would have one of those 40# Magma's

[Roundnoser]

Hi Jon,
I thought a fella like you would have one of those 40# Magma's

I just bought a new Magma Master Caster, but that is set up for H&G 68's! Maybe one day I'll buy just the Master Pot for my conventional molds, but realistically, its hard to beat the 4-20 on the price!

[GT27]

I put some JB Weld on mine. Has been holding for several pots full. Keeping fingers crossed and operating valve handle gingerly.

I second JB Weld,I've used this stuff on exhaust,including exaust manifolds,great stuff!!!

[GARCIA]

I had the exact same problem that has been plagueing me for the last couple of months.
Got to the point the damn screws were falling out but got that all fixed, hopefully.

Found some 5/32nd brass tubeing. Cut it to the same length as the pot. Inserted it in the top hole and got it to come out the bottom hole. Started the bottom screw after having everything in place. Then made sure the brass tube was flush with the top of the pot. Added the second screw and tightened everything down.

Not a problem with any of the screws backing out that's for darn sure!!!!!!!!!!!

Tom