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Thread: Ruger .45 ACP Blackhawk

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
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    No slam, no harm meant.

    a) You can't use moon clips (1/3, 1/2 or full) in the Ruger. Only in guns designed for them. Check out the gap on the back of a 1917 Colt or Smith, or a 1955(?) Target/25-2 Smith, then look at a Ruger or any other convertible (or view photos). You will see the gap at the back of the ACP guns is MUCH wider.

    b) ACP doesn't headspace on the bullet (and shouldn't). It headspaces on the mouth. Bullet choice should NOT influence headspace or firing reliability. If you use your boolit to change headspace, that is a work-around/Rube Goldberg. Get the gun fixed or the ammo in spec, whichever is out of whack. Or if you seated them out too much and they're a tad bigger than the throats, that might be causing the headspace problem; hanging back a tad and the firing pin pushing them forward.

    c) Therefore, NEVER roll-crimp .45 ACP. You risk FTFs. You MIGHT get away with it in an auto, if the extractor holds the case against the breechface. You will probably not get away with it in a wheelgun, at least not a whole cylinder's worth. In fact, Redding does not even MAKE a .45 ACP roll/profile crimp die (the only brand I have a catalog for here at work).

    d) Here's my 2 centavos: It is probably a headspace issue. 1) .45 ACP brass often SHRINKS with repeated firings, not stretches, so there's one possibility. Measuring can also tell you if it's shrunk. Or if you lack measuring tools, if your brass is more than 5 or 6 shootings, consider fresher brass. 2) Also, since you reload, I suggest even less crimp. Hold one loaded round against another, side-by-side but head-to-tail. Look at the mouth area from the side, held up to a good light. If you see anything more than the TINIEST space (and you will see your crimp clearly), reduce the crimp. 3) Lastly, make sure your primers are fully seated. If not, the Firing Pin might just finish seating the primer.

    If you continue to have FTFs, shoot a box of store-bought factory ammo. If it all goes Bang, then sorry, it's still your reloading components, dimensions or technique.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96wa6 View Post
    No slam, no harm meant.

    a) You can't use moon clips (1/3, 1/2 or full) in the Ruger. Only in guns designed for them. Check out the gap on the back of a 1917 Colt or Smith, or a 1955(?) Target/25-2 Smith, then look at a Ruger or any other convertible (or view photos). You will see the gap at the back of the ACP guns is MUCH wider.

    b) ACP doesn't headspace on the bullet (and shouldn't). It headspaces on the mouth. Bullet choice should NOT influence headspace or firing reliability. If you use your boolit to change headspace, that is a work-around/Rube Goldberg. Get the gun fixed or the ammo in spec, whichever is out of whack. Or if you seated them out too much and they're a tad bigger than the throats, that might be causing the headspace problem; hanging back a tad and the firing pin pushing them forward.

    c) Therefore, NEVER roll-crimp .45 ACP. You risk FTFs. You MIGHT get away with it in an auto, if the extractor holds the case against the breechface. You will probably not get away with it in a wheelgun, at least not a whole cylinder's worth. In fact, Redding does not even MAKE a .45 ACP roll/profile crimp die (the only brand I have a catalog for here at work).

    d) Here's my 2 centavos: It is probably a headspace issue. 1) .45 ACP brass often SHRINKS with repeated firings, not stretches, so there's one possibility. Measuring can also tell you if it's shrunk. Or if you lack measuring tools, if your brass is more than 5 or 6 shootings, consider fresher brass. 2) Also, since you reload, I suggest even less crimp. Hold one loaded round against another, side-by-side but head-to-tail. Look at the mouth area from the side, held up to a good light. If you see anything more than the TINIEST space (and you will see your crimp clearly), reduce the crimp. 3) Lastly, make sure your primers are fully seated. If not, the Firing Pin might just finish seating the primer.

    If you continue to have FTFs, shoot a box of store-bought factory ammo. If it all goes Bang, then sorry, it's still your reloading components, dimensions or technique.

    Thank you...all what you have stated makes sense.. the brass (WCC/TZZ) I have been using has been used for 5~10 loadings and none is close to the min length of .895" so it seems they have shrunk in size. I use just enough crimp to remove the bell and I measured it so it is the same as on a factory round (I have one for that purpose). I do seat the primers all the way. I may be able to use some "Jesus" clips that look like "C"s that are thin and might fit the rim cut out...will look into that. Also, I'd never roll crimp a round that head spaces on the case neck.

    IMHO if I had brass that was at .898" in length I doubt I'd have any problems. But I have to use what I've got... Seems to me that WW primers have less FTF's than Wolf's...so I best use a softer primer next time.

    I have both a steel & carbide RCBS sizer dies...from what I can determine the steel sizer lengthens the case by about 0.01 to 0.013" in length--that might help as well.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Actually, the reason you can get away with ANY short round in a 1911 is that the
    firing pin max protrusion is like 1/2" or more. It WILL find the primer if it is in there anywhere.

    Buy a box of new Win ammo and shoot it or buy a batch of Starline new brass and I will bet you
    are done with problems. You will have long enough brass to work.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtGun44 View Post
    Actually, the reason you can get away with ANY short round in a 1911 is that the
    firing pin max protrusion is like 1/2" or more. It WILL find the primer if it is in there anywhere.

    Buy a box of new Win ammo and shoot it or buy a batch of Starline new brass and I will bet you
    are done with problems. You will have long enough brass to work.

    Bill
    Thanks for the suggestion...more than likely doing so would solve the problem.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I returned the pistol to Ruger--they replaced a no. of parts on it including the hammer--I now have to try it out..hopefully it will shoot just fine now.

  6. #26
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    Once you get your testing out of the way, you can have the ACP cylinder faced off enough to take 45 Auto rim brass, since the acp headspaces on the case mouth, you can still use 45ACP in this cylinder without issue.



    45 bucks for the machine work, and it opened up a whole new cartridge for me to play with. Well worth it if you ask me.
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  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    Had one of these a few years back and had plenty of problems. Have several other Ruger convertibles and had no issues with them.
    What I found was that EVERY aspect of that reloaded shell must be perfect. Got a Wilson gage and as long as the reloaded shell fell withing the limits of the Wilson gage it would work and the gun would properly function. This was all diameters, length, a perfect crimp, everything. Even found that some bullet designs, I think because of crimping groove dimensions, would not work.
    Now this is the kind of ammunition we are supposest to be making all the time and I think most of us do. The 45 ACP has great popularity not only do to it's preformance but also due to the fact there are literally tons of good cheap empty casings out there and what is cheap, we tend to shoot a lot of. These casings have been made by about everyone in the world capable of making casings and some don't tend to let a few thousands get in the way and unless you are shooting a very finely set up and tuned target gun, you never notice these very minor differences. Even a top of the line 1911 clone will digest about anything within reason but for some reason it must be that Ruger, at least in my case, set it up so unless all was absolutely perfect anything and everything could and did go wrong.
    It was the only Ruger I ever gladly parted ways with. Too fussy, too much trouble.

    Wally,
    If your cylinder gap is .009-- thats way too much. Not sure what Ruger reccomends but I think a call into the factory would be in order. Even if you do get 100 percent ignition, that gap will effect accuracy to some degree.


    Facta non verba

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reg View Post
    Had one of these a few years back and had plenty of problems. Have several other Ruger convertibles and had no issues with them.
    What I found was that EVERY aspect of that reloaded shell must be perfect. Got a Wilson gage and as long as the reloaded shell fell withing the limits of the Wilson gage it would work and the gun would properly function. This was all diameters, length, a perfect crimp, everything. Even found that some bullet designs, I think because of crimping groove dimensions, would not work.
    Now this is the kind of ammunition we are supposest to be making all the time and I think most of us do. The 45 ACP has great popularity not only do to it's preformance but also due to the fact there are literally tons of good cheap empty casings out there and what is cheap, we tend to shoot a lot of. These casings have been made by about everyone in the world capable of making casings and some don't tend to let a few thousands get in the way and unless you are shooting a very finely set up and tuned target gun, you never notice these very minor differences. Even a top of the line 1911 clone will digest about anything within reason but for some reason it must be that Ruger, at least in my case, set it up so unless all was absolutely perfect anything and everything could and did go wrong.
    It was the only Ruger I ever gladly parted ways with. Too fussy, too much trouble.

    Wally,
    If your cylinder gap is .009-- thats way too much. Not sure what Ruger reccomends but I think a call into the factory would be in order. Even if you do get 100 percent ignition, that gap will effect accuracy to some degree.


    It is back from NH and I will test it out later this week...all maybe well. I did not check the cylinder gap after it was overhauled. We shall see. Thanks for the info... It shoots the .45 ACP quite accurately so to me it is worth a bit of trouble.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    I've noticed that revolvers having a cylinder much longer than necessary for the cartridge its chambered for are less effected by a large cylinder gap.
    With a long free bore travel in the chamber mouth the pistol cartridge has time to accellerate the bullet much more before it reaches the gap, giving more consistent velocity than a cylinder with throats not much if any longer than the bullet itself.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    I have two Ruger SA with 45 Colt and 45 ACP Cylinders and have never had a failure to fire with either when using the ACP cylinder.

    I would be interested in knowing what kind of ammo you are using, the type of primers and if the pistol has modified or replaced springs.

    I have three Smith and Wesson and one Colt DA in 45 ACP and don't have problems with any of them failing to fire.

    It is possible, the Ruger made a boo-boo, but more likely it is the ammo, primer or strength of the hammer strike.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    I have two Ruger SA with 45 Colt and 45 ACP Cylinders and have never had a failure to fire with either when using the ACP cylinder.

    I would be interested in knowing what kind of ammo you are using, the type of primers and if the pistol has modified or replaced springs.

    I have three Smith and Wesson and one Colt DA in 45 ACP and don't have problems with any of them failing to fire.

    It is possible, the Ruger made a boo-boo, but more likely it is the ammo, primer or strength of the hammer strike.
    Handloads with cast bullets. The ammo I've loaded shoots fine in a a Marlin camp Carbine..never had a FTF in it. On occassion some handloaded .45 Colt's have also FTF... As mentioned, a few years back Ruger replaced the cylinders and that's when the problem started for me.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master NHlever's Avatar
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    A few years ago I heard that some Ruger 45 ACP cylinders got out of the plant that were cut too deep. I would send it in to Ruger, and get that checked. Call ahead, and they will probably send you a postage paid carton to send it in. The cylinders are made on much more accurate eqipment these days and shold be much better.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by NHlever View Post
    A few years ago I heard that some Ruger 45 ACP cylinders got out of the plant that were cut too deep. I would send it in to Ruger, and get that checked. Call ahead, and they will probably send you a postage paid carton to send it in. The cylinders are made on much more accurate eqipment these days and shold be much better.
    They would not send a postage paid carton--I shipped to them and I have it back now..will test it out on Friday.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    Ruger fixed my .45 Caliber Blackhawk...it now fires all reloaded .45 ACP's that I have shot in it...looks as if the firing pin protrudes out by an additional 0.5mm and that solved the probem.

  15. #35
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    Good news!

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtGun44 View Post
    Good news!

    Bill
    It surely is....thanks...

  17. #37
    Boolit Master

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    It was not mentioned, so, just to cover the bases, the engraved numbers on the .45 ACP cylinder match up to the frame, right?

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron Mike Golf View Post
    It was not mentioned, so, just to cover the bases, the engraved numbers on the .45 ACP cylinder match up to the frame, right?
    Yes, they sure did.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check