Best BP Lube

[Good Cheer]

For the muzzle loading crowd...
What does experience tell you is the best lube for muzzle loaded cast lead boolits?

[Ajax]

I use ballistol mixed with water. I soak my patches in it and let it fly lol. Where are you from in Liberty county? I lived in Liberty oil field when I was younger.


Andy

[Bullshop]

""""What does experience tell you is the best lube for muzzle loaded cast lead boolits? """"

NASA

[Chicken Thief]

Well here's my thought:

Soap is basically 3 things! Lye = (caustic) BP Ash, fat = boolit greace and last but not least water (from the air or through exhalation).

I know for a fact that when i use a blowtube (enough!) shooting BP cartridge, i get no fouling at all, no matter how many rounds i shoot, without cleaning.

In a frontstuffer i blow down the bore every shot to get the wet part, and it works!

In other words:
Enough fat= oil, lard (you name it) that's above a (way) low flaming point.
Sufficient moisture (more in summer as the air is dryer),
then the rest is up to the moisture ( the most important part of BP)!!!

[Maven]

Go over to the Muzzleloading area and look at the threads, [Young Country] 103 Lube and Effective Liquid Patch Lubes....

[montana_charlie]

For the muzzle loading crowd...
What does experience tell you is the best lube for muzzle loaded cast lead boolits?

Are you looking for something to lubricate patches ... or a grease for conical bullets?

CM

[Bullshop]

I assumed because he said boolits that he meant conicals.

[1874Sharps]

I have found SPG lube to be a very good quality BP lube. In fact, it works very well in smokeless pistol cartridge as well. SPG was invented by Steve P. Garbe, a champion BPCR shooter and it is good stuff. I am sure there are other great BPCR lubes out there, both commercially and privately made (HUBERTUS here on this site makes a great lube I use in my 1859 Sharps), but making lube was not an area I wanted to get into so I am happy to buy it.

[cajun shooter]

I will give you two choices. The first is the NASA lube made by Bullshop. I have been using it for about three years with no problems. For the Louisiana heat I add about 4-6 oz of BW to give it more firmness. The second is to order some of the sheeps tallow that is sold by Dixie Gun Works and mix it with pure olive oil. Some MZ shooters use a mix of 50/50. You may play around for what suits you but it works if you do a search on it. You may also want to stiffen it up by adding some BW which may be bought from Randy Rat who is also a forum member. I also make my own receipe that many local shooters like but I just play with it and have no intentions of selling it. It makes for a fun side hobby.

[Ohio Rusty]

For greasing conicals, I've always liked yelllow T/C's lube. It worked well. For greased patches .. Bears oil mixed with a little soy wax to thicken it slightly.
Ohio Rusty ><>

[L Ross]

After trying NASA I have given up on all my home made BP lubes. It also pan lubes better than anything I've tried, staying in the grooves, but leaving the bands clean. No cake cutter either, simply push the boolits backwards out of the cake. I use it also in my schuetzen rifle with smokeless and that rifle will hold sub moa at 200 yards. The schuetzen bullet is tapered and cannot be run through a lubrisizer.
Duke

[Good Cheer]

Yep, looking for the best lube I can make.
Hoping to get others experiences in what they have found works best with muzzle loaded lead boolits.

[Maven]

Good Cheer, Here are 3 recipes:

Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. (A double boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.




D. Taylor Sapergia’s Bullet Lube


I like shooting the smooth bored PA fowler. I use the heavier charge (85 grs. FFg) because it shoots where I want at all ranges out to 109 yds. (our farthest target on the trail). You are good to go with the .595 and .600 balls, and I like your choice of patch material. I usually use saliva - lots of it - in the summer, but in the winter, I switch too a lube with methyl hydrate to keep it from freezing.

I use precut patches ~1 1/8" soaked with the following mixture: I fill an Appleton's rum bottle, having consumed the great rum, with winter strength windshield washer antifreeze, to within a couple inches of the top. I then add a couple ounces of Murphy Oil soap, and a couple ounces of Neatsfoot Oil. Olive or Canola oil is just as good. This stuff does not blend into a combined liquid, and requires shaking just before you use it. I fill a Sucrets tin with the precut patches I'm going to shoot that day, shake the bottle, and pour it over the patches. When they have absorbed as much as they will. I pour the extra back into the bottle, and then squeeze out the patches in the tin a little to remove the overflow as well. But I leave them very wet. With these soaked patches, you should be able to shoot all day and never have to wipe the bore. And loading is not hard with a wooden rod.



Jeff Brown’s Patch Lube

10 grams of lanolin and melt it in the microwave. Add 50ml of isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Rubbing alcohol might suffice though it is 70/30 alcohol/water from memory.* Stir well and then reheat for about 20-30 seconds just until it boils. This stabilizes the mixture. Spray onto patches and let it dry. Shoot. You essentially end up with a very thin coverage of the lanolin as the alcohol evaporates.


*Use 20% more alcohol if the rubbing alcohol is 70%.

[Junior1942]

For the muzzle loading crowd...
What does experience tell you is the best lube for muzzle loaded cast lead boolits?

Junior Lube. Google it for easy making instructions.

[ripshod]

Maven do you make the Moose Snot by actual weight or by fluid ounces?Thanks.ripshod

[dave roelle]

Hey Good Cheer:

Emmerts works well for both muzzloading and black powder cartridge

Your pretty close to me------i'd be happy to share a bit if you would like to test it

Dave

[JRHYS]

Ajax, I have had problems with Ballistol's effect on wood and metal finishes. I have always used a natural product for patch or wad lube like beeswax, tallow, and etc. in my black powder arms. I have even used a 50/50 Ballistol and water mixture without good results. Ballistol is a petrolium product. Any input I would appreceiate.Thanks, Jerry

[Maven]

ripshod, I made it using fluid ounces. I haven't tested it yet though.

[cajun shooter]

JRHYS, Mixing Ballistol with water is what BP shooters call Moose Milk. It is used as a cleaning product for all BP guns after a shooting session. I use a 7 parts water to 1 part of Ballistol to make my Moose Milk. A 50/50 mix is way too much and will separate unless shaken. Straight Ballistol was first made by the German Army to be used for many things including wounds in the field. I don't understand your statement as many thousands of guns have been fired and cleaned with no adverse effects. It even states on the can that it is good for leather and steel which is quite different from your statements. Ballistol is also not as you say when you call it a petroleum product. It does contain mineral oil which is a highly refined product but is not a true oil as most think of oil. Any product that mixes with water is not a true petrolium product such as ATF, Automotive oil and Diesel Oil. Any person who has knowledge of black powder knows what happens if a true oil product is mixed with BP fouling. You don't want to have the two together. Look in the sticky section on BP lubes if you want to try a different product.