GSI bullet feeders and cast boolits

[biscot]

I noticed that a vendor sponsor (parrot1969) is selling GSI bullet feeders, so I thought I'd start a thread about them, if there's any interest.
I use the manual-feed setup of the GSI with my Dillon 650 for 9mm, but haven't tried to use the collator.
Although the learning curve has been a bit steep at times, I've learned how to make them work smoothly - I wouldn't be without them and have two of them set up for the 9mm boolits that I load.
My boolits are from Magma molds, and I've found the bevel base molds are the only ones that will let me use the GSI toolhead without shaving a sliver off the base.
Also, I use a hard lube (magma blue) - I've tried softer lubes but they are too sticky to work in the feeder.
Also, for one of my boolits (a truncated cone that I have to load at 1.02"OAL to chamber in my Browning Hi Power) I use the GSI seating die only to start the boolit, then have an RCBS seating-crimping die in the 5th station to finish seating. I can't use the GSI seating die to seat to my OAL because if it is screwed in that far, the feed wheel hangs up.
I could go on, if there's any interest in a GSI thread.

Does anybody use the GSI collator with cast boolits? I've been wondering if I should give it a try.

Bill

[Lloyd Smale]

hard lube and bevel bases rule it out for me with cast bullets but ive got to get one of them or the rcbs unit for my lnl set up for .223s

[jmorris]

They didn't offer a collator when I picked up my GSI's so I built my own. I later built another set based on the more compact KISS design.

They are made from PVC and 1/2" plastic (I used Hyvar). I built simple fixtures for drilling the pattern.

[jmorris]

I ment to add I once played with a GSI collator a friend had. Neither of us could get it to work 100% even with plated bullets.

[Doc Highwall]

Nice to see the talent that you have jmorris.

[biscot]

Nice work, jmorris.
Sounds like I should stay away from the GSI collator and go for a home-built.

[parrott1969]

I have not tried mine with lead boolits yet. There is a very steep learning curve. When they say in the instructions complete strokes they mean it. The biggest problem that I had was with the camming plate. After about 500 rounds the bullet index wheel lost time. It took me about 5 minutes to figure it out. The camming plate was toed in at the top. I fixed this by placing a washer behind the camming plate and all is well. I have had zero issues since I installed the washer.

In all fairness, I believe that I caused the camming plate to bend. Just before the issues started, I had a jam (caused by the press not the bullet feeder) and I forced it a little. After that everything went to *ell in a hand basket.

This is not your everyday bullet feeder. When you think about it, it is quite complex. And there are many things that can go wrong. It is an excellent product and once you have completed the learning curve it will produce a lot of bullets very quickly.

Oh and here are a few of the things that I have learned

keep at least 100 bullets in the collator, too few slows the collator feed rate

lube the cam plate with high quality grease

if the collator should jam, check the "bullet ring" to be sure that it is not binding. I had one bullet that did not drop into the drop tube and it went around to the other side and hit the ring guide. This pushed the guide into the ring and caused a major jam. Once I found the problem, it only took a couple of minutes to clear.

make complete strokes, short stroking will cause problems



above all else, take your time for a few days. Once you have learned the machine, then you can speed up.

[biscot]

Thanks for that info.
I'm concerned that the lube on the lead bullets might cause a problem with gunking things up. I guess I won't know 'till I try it. I already use a fairly hard lube (Magma lube) to avoid gunking up the tool head feed wheel.

[parrott1969]

Biscot, they sell a powder ( mica, i think) that they recomend that you dust the boolits with. I would use talcum powder as it will do the same thing and is much cheaper. Be sure that you read the label and get 100% talc and not corn starch. Some people will say that talc is not a lubricant and that it will wear your barrel...... THEY WILL BE WRONG. Talc is a natural lubricant and will not cause you any problems.

Something to think about, WOULD YOU PUT SOMETHING ABRASSIVE ON YOUR BABIES BOTTOM????? I would hope not.

Sorry, that is just for all the nay sayers that will be lending their 2 cents.

[biscot]

Thanks again, I may give it a try.

[jmorris]

make complete strokes, short stroking will cause problems

In more than one way on a progressive. I thought you had one on a 1050...you can't short stroke a 1050.

[parrott1969]

Jmorris, it is on a 1050. Believe it or not I figured out a way not to make a full stroke and I made a big mess. If you reach back and flip that rachet dohickie up you can make a short stroke. Only a redneck from mississippi would do such a thing.

You really should try it once or four times. It makes a big, big mess of things.

[jmorris]

Ahh, I see, but isn't that like not putting powder in the measure and blaiming a squib on it?

[parrott1969]

Yeap, I have never been accused of being the brightest bulb in the box. Sometimes I like to mess things up just for the sake of seeing what will happen. Seem's that I have destructive tendencies.

[jmorris]

I understand fully, I'll have to post photos of my bowling ball cannon vs car day.