Lead Removal Solution

[JudgeBAC]

I have had great success with Montanna Extreme Cowboy Blend with lead bullets. Anything left can be removed with a Lewis Lead remover if the deposits are heavy. I'm not sure what is in this stuff but it really works.

[Pat I.]

RB,
There's a few companies that have their names on the cloth. Outers and Birchwood Casey are two that come to mind right away along with Kleen Bore that's been mentioned. I'm sure they're all the same thing with different names. Just look for Lead Wipe somewhere in the name and you'll have the right stuff.

[utk]

Used one of those and it worked great. Can't get them up here now. Do you know what the chemical is that is in them?

Take Care

Bob

Go to this site, about halfway down the page:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

500 gr - 400 grit or finer aluminum oxide powder
450 gr - kerosene or #2 fuel oil
4 gr - lemon oil
5 gr - ammonium chloride

[robertbank]

Pat 1 - thank you for response I am on it.

utk - Thank you for the reference. I am going to suggest to Gun Master he sticky the formula.

Take Care

Bob

[Gunload Master]

If someone wants to create a new thread with that formula being the first post, I will stick it.

[dbldblu]

The Chore boy stuff works fairly well. It does not get into the very corner of the rifling, IMO. Clamp a piece of aluminum in a vise. Use a hand file on this piece until you have a pinch of aluminum filings. Soak a patch with your favorite solvent. Sprinkle the filings onto the patch and run through the bore. This will remove lead right into the corner of the rifling. It will not scratch the barrel. I posted this on some forum before and some guy said it would create aluminum oxide and scratch the barrel. I don't believe that is true, but if someone is worried about it, use brass filings instead. Brass works just as well.

[lovedogs]

The lead removal that's worked best for me have been the Chore Boy, the Lewis Lead Remover, and the Foul-Out. All work well. If you'll use the right alloy sized properly, and the right lube you should avoid leading. I was surprised at how well Larsen's 50/50 lube works. Since using it I've never had any lead in my barrels. Of course all other things are done right and my barrels are all broken in properly and are nice and smooth.

[Tenbender]

Interesting !

[ohiooneshot]

Hello all, brand new here. Found this site while looking for a solution to change lead into a soluble liquid that can be rinsed out. So far every post on here deals with leaded barrels. What if you were faced with the problem of getting lead out of something that isn't able to be dis assembled and isn't able to be scrubbed with a brush....like a sealed suppressor? Any help from anyone would be truly appreciated.

[Nose Dive]

Gents.... good postings! Great reading! So, I thought I would throw in one last methodology. This is my 'old way'...back when....

When I was younger and was working in petrochemical plants and oil refineries all over this planet, I had access to mercury. Yep, the sliver stuff of years ago put into thermometers. We used a great deal of it in manual manometers to gage pressure in storage tanks. We no longer do this as, well, if the glass gage gets broken... you have contaminated the tank dike area.

But, being trained in is use, transportation, storage and DISPOSAL, I have cleaned some friends barrels, pistol and rifle, with mercury. Now be fore warned and told, it is now a 'hazardous material' and is controlled by Uncle Sam's EPA. So, don't expect to run to Walmart and pick up a liter.

I had a friend with a very nice, very fouled, Shutzten long rifle. I believe it was a 45-90 calibre. After a bit of scrubbing and little reverse 'electro-plating'... I plugged and filled the barrel with the mercury. It forms an amalgam with the lead in the barrel. This sat for a few days as we were busy and later, we unplugged the barrel and captured the eluent and sat it aside for disposal by the company. I think they sent it to a reclaimer who cleaned it up somehow and sold it right back to us. Anyway, a bit more scrubbing with bronze wire mesh, some Hoppes and Ed's Red, we had us a clean barrel. Patches came out white and slick and could again see original rifling. He had a reamer of the same calibre of the rifle and he slipped it through the barrel a few times, well lubed, and didn't see any black nasty residue. So, we were confident we had done our part the the mercury had done it's job.

So, there is another way to remove lead. And once again, MERCURY is hazardous and if you injest any, and you are of child bearing age, you kids can come out looking like salamanders. This is way it is on the EPA CONTROLLED SUBSTANCE LIST.

I no longer fool with mercury, nor asbestos, nor PCB's. "In the old days", these were common materials in 'our' work place. And, in the meantime, we learned more about these hazardous items and either removed them or learned how to safely handle them.

And really, with all the above 'easy to accomplish' and safe methodologies.....well.....'why bother'?

Nose Dive

Cheap, Fast, Good. Kindly pick two.

SAFETY NOTICE

Some of the chemicals suggested here, lead, mercury, acetone, MEK, and ammonia are "hazardous materials" and can pose a significant health or fire hazards if not used correctly. Mix outdoors or with appropriate ventilation and respiratory protection, avoid flames or sparks, and avoid skin contact. Do not consume or use as a mixer. Keep them away from pets and stupid people. Wear eye protection when mixing. If in doubt about proper safety measures obtain the appropriate Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) which can be obtained on line through.

As with the use of any chemicals, wash your hands thoroughly after using. Note that many of the formulas suggested here will remove skin oils, so you may want to consider using some kind of skin lotion after washing your hands.

Wear eye protection when using any of the solutions below.

http://hazard.com/msds/index.php

http://www.MSDS.com

I strongly suggest that you download, read, and heed them!