ok so i was thinking take a mosin nagant barrel
cut off the chamber and make a muzzleloader out of it
now if some one wants to make a percussion one it can use smokeless
mine is going to be flintlock so BP only
now what to use as a bullet
ok so i was thinking take a mosin nagant barrel
cut off the chamber and make a muzzleloader out of it
now if some one wants to make a percussion one it can use smokeless
mine is going to be flintlock so BP only
now what to use as a bullet
You are getting a bit closer to a workable project. No to the smokeless powder, though. It's burn pressure would very quickly burn out the vent. Stick with black powder. Since you are just starting in building ML's, I would suggest you do a percussion under hammer for the first experiment. You can make this mechanism pretty easy with limited tools.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
For the boolit, you'll want a good bit of lube capacity. And since you'll be working with lower velocities, you'll want a lighter weight, as the longer projectiles wont stabilize at the lower velocities as well.
Is there a reason you're determined to build a flintlock before building a cap-lock? As Waksupi suggested, a cap-lock under hammer gun should be doable with limited tooling.
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i have to register a caplock(i hate the long gun regustry) and i love flintlocks why becuse i can shoot and will never run out of supply of cap's or powder(i know how to make some good bp) flints well i can knap them my self and bullets cast them
i can shoot for ever and do not have to worry about anything
its my gun of choice for just about anything
about 30gr of 3f bp
maybe a pistol bullet
Pretty fast Rate of Twist for a ML. They're 1-10" right? Is that too fast for a really short picket ball? I never tried anything with that fast of a twist, and would be curious to hear how it works.
I would try a pure lead .32 pistol bullet first, but sizing one of those down until it's small enough for easy loading might wipe out most of the lube grooves which may or may not be problematical. Should make a dandy squirrel rifle if it works.
Homemade blackpowder eh...?
Cam, please start using capitals, and punctuation. It's hard to take serious anything you come up with, when you try to communicate like this.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
As recall many,many years ago there was a write-up in one of the gun rags about a very unique flintlock. The author used a sparking wheel from a lighter with the "flint" and made a lighter-lock muzzleloader. Can't recall what he used for a pan cover, it worked very much like a wheel lock gun. I think the pan had a cover that came down and was open just slightly so the shower of sparks would be directed into the powder pan.
It did work, just came about at the wrong time as everyone wanted caplock guns.
camerl2009, With an "unbreeched" bbl. you'll be able to slug it with ease. Also, if the bore is somewhere around .311" and with a 1:10 twist, why not consider some of the more common .30cal. (metrics included) CB designs, e.g., Ly. #311291, #31141, #311299, #314299? If they don't fit the bbl. as cast, you can size them down a bit in order to allow paper patching. It will be a slug gun of sorts, but it will likely be a tack driver too. Btw, the 1:10 twist will be too fast for a patched round ball, but the [elongated] CB's I've mentioned generally are very accurate in the bores they fit. Good luck with this project and be sure to show us pictures of your progress!
Well if u dont have a good flintlock on ur gun that could be also a problem. if geometry isnt right it will not spark, or spark lightly, smash flints without fail ect.
I believe that jaguarxk120 was saying( correct me if im wrong) that it used a Ferrocerium "flint" from an actual lighter(Bic ect) with a similar wheel from a lighter. the device had a guard and a piece of leather material to be glued to the frizzen for good grip on the wheel, like your thumb striking a light.
If anything heres an idea. http://www.wikipatents.com/US-Patent...irearms/Page-2
As for homemade BP, once again Cam u have to watch out for what ur saying, were not alowed to manufacture gunpowder in canada with out a manufacturing license, and why... u can get goex for a cheaper amount than the components for BP. The recipe for gunpowder hasnt changed in a very long time, nowadays the process altho somewhat the same is the key to its modern sucess, whether Goex, Elephant, Schuetzen ect all the same. Serpentine powder doesnt have much power to any ways.
Im thinking you could probably do a boxlock (hammers attached to a steel action block) easier then a side lock, you avoid all the lock inletting, and the stock can be attached much easier. Your for end will be much simpler to fit as you can design the gun to have a 2 peice stock like a lever action.
Yes you have to shape some steel, or possibly bronze, but the vast majority CAN be done with some files, a hack saw and sweat equity, you still would need a tap and die for for breach plugs obviously. But you really make your project easier for you in the end, plus the box lock is ready made for interchangeable barrels like you expressed interest in.
Last edited by hickstick_10; 12-21-2010 at 08:58 PM.
ok......I have no Idea what u just said...........
mckutzy: are you sure about making your own powder?
I was talking to a fireman here a few years ago, he made his own, and the only restriction he found was the limit in pounds of what you can store. (50 or so)
making 2-4lbs at a time I didn't think was an issue.
I'll have to check the regs again.
Every time I read postings written by guys making their own black powder I just shake my head in wonder. Sure, in an apocalyptic scenario it might make sense but c'mon the Horsemen aren't bearing down on us! Why risk injury just to prove you can do it ? Even people living in remote areas can have it delivered to their door. Who amongst us is so poor that the cost of a pound or two is going to break the bank? When shooting I want predictable results, not a guessing game as to the cause of unwanted performance. I'm as much of an inveterate experimenter as the next guy but making homemade powder and primers and such to me is a fool's errand.
Well, I admit that I've made black powder before. And the only way I would again, is if there was no other option. But to each his own.
I would recommend that if you're going to make your own, that you get a powder tester. It doesn't cost that much, and can be helpful in testing "recipe's" and determining what works, and more importantly, what doesn't.
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Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |