Inline FabricationRotoMetals2Load DataTitan Reloading
Snyders JerkyReloading EverythingRepackboxMidSouth Shooters Supply
Wideners Lee Precision
Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: 220/240 in shop

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


    DCP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    The LAST State to allow Conceal Carry -The new 5O
    Posts
    2,710

    220/240 in shop

    Want to put 220/240 in the shop

    No tool in that voltage yet, do I wait to and put in what amp They needs or put in 40 or 50 amps?
    I don't know a lot about 220/240 lots of different amps out 20 30 40 50 amps maybe even more.

    Can you put a 50 amp plug on a 20amp tool?

    Thanks, DCP
    LOYALTY ABOVE ALL ELSE, EXCEPT HONOR

    "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading." -- Thomas Jefferson

    "The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena and who, at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who knew neither victory nor defeat."
    Theodore Roosevelt

    NRA
    BENEFACTOR LIFE MEMBER

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,624
    I am planning on 4 220 outlet in the new building. as 2 will be for welders 1 for air compressor and 1 extra. This may change as I may hardwire the welders and air compressor in. then it will be 2. Remember if you go with plugs they need to be rated for any tool that may be plugged into them.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    Quote Originally Posted by DCP View Post
    Want to put 220/240 in the shop

    No tool in that voltage yet, do I wait to and put in what amp They needs or put in 40 or 50 amps?
    I don't know a lot about 220/240 lots of different amps out 20 30 40 50 amps maybe even more.

    Can you put a 50 amp plug on a 20amp tool?

    Thanks, DCP
    Keep in mind you can always put in 6 gauge wire and put a 20 amp breaker on it, but you can't put in 10 gauge wire and put a 50 amp breaker on it. Well, you CAN, but a fire will likely ensue.
    When I built my shop years ago, I pre-wired it for 220V near all 4 corners and just left the feeds disconnected until I had something I needed one of them for. If your not comfortable doing the wiring yourself, this may not be a viable option for you.

    Just a suggestion. Hope your project goes well.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    NoZombies's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    N. Florida
    Posts
    2,493
    Quote Originally Posted by DCP View Post
    Can you put a 50 amp plug on a 20amp tool?
    You can plug a 20 amp machine into a 50amp circuit, but NOT the other way around. Well, not without having problems anyways.
    Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival

    Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    Ickisrulz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Shawnee, OK
    Posts
    2,950
    Is your shop detached? Are you putting in a subpanel?

    You don't typically install a bunch of 240 outlets like you do for 120. You figure out where a tool will be and run wiring to that location (usually) on one breaker. You can size the breaker and wire for more amps that the tool will use. It will cost a little more than necessary.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    southern MO
    Posts
    2,950
    If by "shop" you mean a metal working shop which might include a welding circuit, Then you are talking probably 30 amp (#10 awg) and not too much extra cost for a future wire welder. A stick welder would be 40 or 50 amp which is an expensive circuit and would not be, in my opinion, something to pre-wire for until you know where it is to be located. Your runs from the panel should be short with those circuits due to voltage drop being an issue when your amps get large for those machines. In a wood working shop a #12 circuit (20 amps) will work for either a 120v or a 240v circuit depending on how you do the hook-up in the panel. As such the #12 circuits are pretty safe to run in that you have some good options depending on what you decide to do. A large table saw, shaper, or planer can require a 240 volt 30 amp circuit and again you really need to limit the distance from the electrical panel to avoid undesirable voltage drop for those bigger circuits. There is possibly no really good answer to your question without knowing more about your future needs.
    Mark 5:34 And He said to her (Jesus speaking), "Daughter, your faith has made you well. Go in peace and be healed of your affliction."

  7. #7
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,765
    Its like 120, but you have two of them together, with one neutral & a ground.
    Like 120, the max size of the breakers is determined by the guage/size of the wire going out of it from the panel box.

    For example: With a 30 amp 220 circuit-- both 'legs' or hot wires, and the 'neutral have to be able to carry 30 amps each.

    It's no big deal, but I'd sure read up on it before I started buying stuff and pulling wire.
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 01-31-2019 at 03:30 AM.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  8. #8
    Banned








    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    17,725
    30 amp circuit will power about anything your going to buy for your garage unless your into some industrial. I would step up to #8 wire though. Especially if the run is a bit long.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    StratsMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    575
    Assuming your shop already exists, run the biggest wire you can through the existing conduit. Put a sub-panel in the shop. From there you can choose how to break it out based on the wire size.

    I have done this even without putting in a 220v outlet. I like to have 2 legs available so the lights are on a separate leg from the tool outlets. That may be overkill, but it works for me.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,359
    Wait till you get the tool and size breaker and wire location for tool requirement. The breaker protects the wire from overload and catching fire.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy rr2241tx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    San Marcos Texas
    Posts
    349
    Without knowing what your shop is to be used for it is hard to advise you but here is what I did: most serious tools can be wired to run on 240 even if they were running 480 where they were installed new. If at all possible have 240 3 phase run to your main breaker box so your mill, lathe, shaper, etc. will run efficiently. Floor layout was planned for eventual acquisition of the big tools and conduit run to the approximate locations and capped. My welder is on a 240 single phase with a 50A receptacle inside and another receptacle outside for working on big pieces. Benches and work tables are wired with quad 120s every other stud and single 20A 240 on the alternate studs. I prewired the 120 and single phase 240 receptacles with two circuits each on each of the walls. The 3 phase 240s are/will be hardwired as equipment was acquired and run in surface mounted conduit which allows relocation without having to tear out the walls to relocate the service. Another thing, double the amount of lighting you think you need and put work lighting everywhere. You can always turn lights off if they aren't needed but crawling around in the attic trying to add more later is a royal pain in the knees.
    rr2241tx
    Timin' has a lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,399
    Using too big a breaker can cause you not to have the protection it should provide even if it is the correct wire gauge. I had a commercial range hood that wasn't used very often. LRA was 17amps and the circuit was wired for 20 amps. Breaker never tripped. Thank goodness for overload protection in the motor. Residential range hood don't always have that.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Baytown Texas
    Posts
    4,106
    Unless a shop is very small I like to have at least two circuits each for wall outlets and lighting. That assures that there will always be light and power in the event that future electrical work is needed. My last two shops were done that way and I’m about to build another. It will be wired the same, with dedicated circuits for the lathe, mill and welding machine.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    rl69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Brookeland Texas
    Posts
    2,848
    Quote Originally Posted by jsizemore View Post
    Using too big a breaker can cause you not to have the protection it should provide even if it is the correct wire gauge. I had a commercial range hood that wasn't used very often. LRA was 17amps and the circuit was wired for 20 amps. Breaker never tripped. Thank goodness for overload protection in the motor. Residential range hood don't always have that.
    ^^^^^^^^this ^^^^^^^

    Bigger isn't always better.
    when the dust settles and the smoke clears all that matters is I hear the words " well done my good and faithfully servant "

    <(*)(()><

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    285
    I ran 50 Amp circuit for larger wire welder ( Miller 252), run at least one 30 Amp also for something like a lathe or larger tool. This would be minimum, use mine all the time.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,708
    When I built my house I had plans for a future shop so I buried a 2 inch conduit and a 90 in the slab from under the panel to outside the house. That made the hookup much easier and neater. I ran #2 to the shop and have it on a 100 amp breaker. Thats a little overkill for a one man home shop but I'm retired from the electrical business. I have 2 60 amp 240 volt circuits for a welding machine, one near each door. I have another for my air compressor and another for my table saw. Yes, its 240 volt!

    You should draw a sketch and lay out your shop on paper. Walk through it mentally and visualize working it it. Its usually easier and cheaper to do things up front so go ahead and spend a little more than you budgeted for if you can.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Greater Portland OR.
    Posts
    1,749
    $ to 5 years ago I added 200 amp service to my electrical. This let me get central air which is great. 30 amp service for the trailer in the back yard and I put one 220 volt circuit in the garage. Table saw cuts much better and the joiner is only 220.I am seriously thinking about moving. If I do I require a reasonable sized workshop and reloading room. haven't decided size yet but I won't be crowded. 'Workshop will have at least 4 220 volt outlets. Moving extension cords and equipment is a pain.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    lylejb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    canby, or
    Posts
    907
    It all depends on what you plan to be doing in the shop. Several of the replies mention 50 or 60 amps, and that's great if you're going to get a welder or other large equipment that needs that much.....and it's a useless expense if you're not.
    When I wired my shop, I did much like lightman did, and run a #2 from the main panel and put in a sub panel in the shop. It's on a 100a 240v breaker to the sub panel, and from that I can break out any size or number of circuits I need. In my case, a 20a 240v for the air compressor, 2 120v lights circuits, and 2 20a 120v outlet circuits. If in the future I need more, it's easy to just add a breaker to the sub panel and run the circuit, and not have to pay for and guess where I might need it someday.
    There's kind of a sweet spot, price wise, on about that size of panel. I got a square d "kit" at home depot that was a panel and a half dozen breakers for like $50. Hope this helps.
    NRA life member

    LB

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check