Rifle lever actions' comparative ease of maintenance?

[Naphtali]

I have been informed that shooting 45 Colt black powder ammunition in lever action rifles allows more residue to enter actions because of its brass being thicker/tougher around case mouths compared with 44-40 brass. 45 Colt brass does not seal chambers as effectively at black powder pressures as more flexible 44-40 brass.

Shooting 45 Colt with Starline brass and Goex FFg, as best you can, please identify the rifle lever action - among Marlin 1894, Rossi 1892 Winchester reproduction, and Uberti 1873 Winchester reproduction - that is easiest and/or most straightforward to clean-maintain. My black powder experience has been muzzleloaders and Shiloh Sharps 1863s. Comparatively, these have fewer parts, no feed or extraction mechanics - in essence, not many places into which black powder residue can squirm.

[M-Tecs]

73's are the easiest. Next are the Marlins and last are the Winchester's.

I do anneal my Starline 45 Colt brass but real back is hydroscopic not corresive. I only strip the actions down once or twice a year.

[Naphtali]

73's are the easiest. Next are the Marlins and last are the Winchester's.

I do anneal my Starline 45 Colt brass but real back is hydroscopic not corresive. I only strip the actions down once or twice a year.

My query centers around "gunk jams" rather than corrosion. These actions have a bunch of moving parts that depend upon relatively close tolerances to function properly as a unit.

Contrast with a muzzleloading side lock rifle. I owned several Pedersoli Kodiak double rifles. I cleaned and lubricated their locks prior to first firing. I checked each lock during cleaning after each ones first firing. I checked the locks' interiors of the one I used regularly about four years later - for the first time since. There was nothing amiss and zero corrosion or gunk. During barrel cleaning, I would clean out each lock's hammer nose and lightly apply protectant. Shilohs are essentially as gunk resistant for locks. Actions require some work. But remove one pin and all action parts are free. And how many parts is this? Half-a-dozen, or so.

[John Boy]

I have been informed that shooting 45 Colt black powder ammunition in lever action rifles allows more residue to enter actions because of its brass being thicker/tougher around case mouths compared with 44-40 brass.

Of course, bottle neck brass have thinner walls and seal better. But your informer is full of meadow muffins up to their ears ... Lee Factory Crimp hard crimp is the key to minimal blowback with 45 LC's
* Rossi '92 with over 15,000 BP reloads down the bore and the rifle has been field stripped only twice for cleaning which was a waste of my time!

[Nobade]

I anneal my 45 Colt cases, only size enough of it to hold the bullet, and use big enough bullets. Zero blowback, no gunk in the action. Marlin 1894 - very easy to clean, one screw and it's apart. I also shoot a Browning B92 in 357 mag, it does give a little blowback but I keep everything wet with Ballistol and have never had to take it apart in 6 years of shooting silhouette with it. Still works just fine, no worries.

-Nobade

[John Barleycorn]

No doubt the 73 because of the removeable side plates.

[35 Whelen]

I've been into all three and hands-down the 1873. Remove one screw and both sideplates come off exposing all the (simple) internal parts. This is a picture of the inside of a '66, but it'll give you the idea.

73's are the easiest. Next are the Marlins and last are the Winchester's.

I do anneal my Starline 45 Colt brass but real back is hydroscopic not corresive. I only strip the actions down once or twice a year.

The word is actually hygroscopic.

35W

[M-Tecs]

Thanks. I obviously didn't catch that. Didn't look at spell check close enough.

[35 Whelen]

No big deal. It's a VERY common mistake I see in BP discussions.

35W

[needausername]

I can only speak for the 92 and the Henry. In the field, it's easier to turn the 92 upside down and run hot water through the bore since it's top is open. Once I drilled out an empty and put a fitting in it with a drain tube. Just held it in and poured.

Otherwise, I found better results in general by using steel dies on the FF cartridges instead of carbide sizer dies. Slight taper to them as-is but easy to hone just a tad so the cartridge sizes better to your chamber. In the absence of rapid fire, the action stays relatively clean. Heavy crimp, as stated above.

Have fun.

[John Boy]

Irregardless of the model of the lever action ... don't neglect cleaning the magazine tube! Have found after cleaning - a cotton ball with Eezox on it keeps the rust away

[Lead pot]

You guys are making a lot out of nothing about shooting black powder and cleaning your rifles or revolvers.
There are not many that shoot as much as Some of us that mostly shoot real black powder and I have yet to see or talk to these guys that have a rust problem. I shoot black in the 1911 even and I very seldom strip it down below the slide and when I take off the grips there is no rust to be found.

I don't have a Winchester lever rifle at this time, all of my lever rifles are Marlins because for the ease of cleaning them. One screw remover from the lever boss and the bolt comes out and you can properly clean the bore from the breach. I don't use and of the witches brews for cleaning the guns, just plain water gets the job done. The important part cleaning is getting the gun dry before you oil it.

I suppose those of you guys that get the substitute powder will have a rust problem, but I don't know any of the people I shoot with that clean their guns like I do have a corrosion problem.

[Desertbuck]

I own a Rossi r92 in 45 colt that has shot mostly black powder. I tore it down twice which was a waste of time. The barrel I clean with soapy water and oil well with regular 10w30 motor oil before it goes back in the closet, every once in awhile I'll pull out the magazine tube spring, plunger and clean it also. Never had a problem with rust whatsoever. Even when I've gone out when it's raining and cleaned when it was convenient.
The instant rusting problem everyone talks about is an old wives tale. Now if you're using Pyrodex that's a different story!
With real original gunpowder if you leave the rifle unattended in a damp environment you might have a problem. But if you clean and oil your rifle or pistol as they would have back in the day you will have no problems. Keeping the gun oiled and the action greased will go a long way. I have no gooey build up with petroleum oils or grease. What build up I get wipes away easily with a rag and causes no binding whatsoever. Motor oil,axle grease both have a lot of anti-corrosion properties in it. I say you don't need fancy oils but thats me. My bullet Lube on the other hand is my homemade beeswax base type. That definitely is a must for accurate shooting.

[Vann]

I've used a 92,94, and 73 Win. I prefer the Marlins. Like stated above remove 1 screw and remove the bolt , ejector, and lever. Then push it all out of the barrel from the breech . If you really want to get it clean pull another screw and remove the stock and everything can be flushed out.

[TXGunNut]

Marlins allow easy cleaning from the breech. Action cleans up easily too if you feel like you need to do it. With my Winchesters I simply put them in the vise/cradle upside down so any gunk, residue, solvent, moose milk or patches simply fall out instead of into the action.

[KCSO]

Use a pull through for cleaning the first thing and PULL the fouling out the front of the barrel. Then clean as usual and no crud goes into the action. Then just take off the stock and spray out the action once a year or so.