simple Hi-Tek coating

[TES]

What bad acetone? Lol

Leadman, it happened to me! Drove me crazy for two days before it was figured out with the help of others! I went back to my original brand of acetone and poof, coating that worked! Well, worked as well as can be expected for snake oil! Lol

As far as coating my bullets, I measure by weight (35 pounds) and use 20 ml of coating when using metallics, and 15 ml when using non-metallics. I give them all 3 coats because they look better. People buy with their eyes!

I never really figured out how many I get per liter. When I start to get low, I just add to the bottle.

What brand of acetone do you use?

[Gateway Bullets]

The brand I use is ? Kleen in a blue and yellow can. The bad brand I had was Crown.

[KYCaster]

I have been looking at the clear ballistics gel from http://clearballistics.com/ but they are quite $$$

best part is I don't have to keep the block at a critical temp or worry about storage and can be used over and over.

To capture boolits undamaged, use fibre-filled pillows. I use the really cheap ones from Dollar General store. Three of them will fit in a 5 gal. bucket, tightly packed and have stopped every handgun bullet I've shot into them so far.

Haven't been able to stop a 2000 fps 30 cal. though.

Jerry

[Gateway Bullets]

That's a good idea! How many rounds can you shoot into it before they wear out?

[Ausglock]

oley55.
I have mixed coating sitting on my bench that has been mixed for over 6 weeks. coated with some last night and it is still working fine.

My coloured resin gets stored in the fridge, now it starting to warm up. in winter, it lived under the bench at room temp.

Just came down from the shed for lunch. I have cast 3000 this morning and plan on another 3000 this afternoon. Coating and baking tomorrow with the Kryptonite Green.

[Gremlin460]

36 rounds of Glitter gold dual coated, 4.2gn AP50N @ 10yard mark.
Beretta 92FS

[HI-TEK]

36 rounds of Glitter gold dual coated, 4.2gn AP50N @ 10yard mark.
Beretta 92FS

How was your gun after shooting?
Was it clean?
How does these results compare to what you have done previously?

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

What bad acetone? Lol

Leadman, it happened to me! Drove me crazy for two days before it was figured out with the help of others!

Sounds like a smart guy....lol

[popper]

saw one gel formula that used pectin for a stabilizer.

[Moonman]

I fired a few HI-TEK "Gold" pills today at an indoor range.
Test firing was at 25 and 33 feet.
I just shoot for FUN, I'm not a COMPETITION SHOOTER.

The lead Pills I cast were mostly (Soft) STICK ON WHEEL WEIGHTS
and had a Brinell Hardness of about 8 or so with a CABINE TREE TESTER.

Before coating I give my cast pills an ACETONE BATH and drying to make sure they're clean.

I've started using 1 1/2 teaspoons of (GOLD METALLIC COLOR) mix per 5 pounds of bullets,
no matter what their weight or configuration.
That's my baseline for the moment, I may even REDUCE that a bit more.

I'm not in a hurry so I let each coat dry overnight before baking, I have multiple trays for drying/baking.

I also preheat the boolits with a hairdryer a bit before baking.

38 Special 4 1/2" Slab barrel S&W PPC Revolver.
156 SWC over 3.0 grains BULLSEYE powder
148 grain BUTTON NOSE WC over 3.0 grains of BULLSEYE.
Double Coated "GOLD" 5/1/7 ACETONE mix.
Baked in a Breville "SMART" Convection Oven 380F for 10 minutes each coat.

1911 Colt "Gunsite" model 5" 45ACP.
225 grain RN over 4.0 grains BULLSEYE Powder.
Twice "GOLD" coated 5/1/7 Acetone mix.
Baked in a Breville "SMART" Convection Oven 380F for 10 minutes each coat.

Presently I'm coating some PILLS using the EXTREME 2 CATALYST in the SECOND COATING MIX.

BULLEYE is considered a "DIRTY" powder by many, including me.

Today was a test of my PROCESSES.

Coating LOOKED GOOD, it functioned as it IS SUPPOSED TOO.

NO LEADING IN EITHER FIREARM, inspection light inside the barrel, THEY'RE REALLY CLEAN.

IT'S TRULY AMAZING, Low Smoke too. (I was ALOX Tumbling)

I'll play with LOADS now that I know my process of coating and baking KEEPS THE COATING ON.
The "OPEN" SIGHTS on these firearms have not been adjusted for these loads as of yet.

I'm a HAPPY CAMPER, and a few folks that I let look into the barrels were IMPRESSED also.

I am just really SATISFIED with the "GOLD" coating so far.
THANKS TO "DONNIE AT BAYOU BULLETS" for the coatings and FAST SERVICE.

Thanks to HI-TEK for this process.

Thanks to Ausglock for his advise to me on getting started.

[Magana559]

No luck on making gel because gelatin is very expensive even when bought in bulk.

Ill invest in clear synthetic gel soon.

[Ausglock]

G'day Moonman.
Mate. I'm glad to help.

Well done. I have not been game to try coating and firing pills of 8 BHN. All mine are 12 to 16 BHN.
I might try some 8 to 10 BHN for 45ACP pills.

[Magana559]

OK I just cleaned out my SR9c and the leadding is not all the way down the barrel, its only the last inch of the 3" barrel BUT its definitely not coming out with just a bore brush.....I sure hope I dont run into this when I start using cast in the rifles! The lead is bonded to the steel, I cannot brush it out and cant find any chore boy in the house.

I dont know what is causing this issue. But it seems like the HI TEK coating is working because the bore is super shiny except the last inch.
ANY input would be more than welcome!

[Moonman]

Magana559,

I'm not sure if all this applies.

SEARCH for FROM INGOT TO TARGET, a Sticky in Cast Boolits.

It concerns a revolver and shooting cast bullets.

LOOK at Page 58 about LEADING. (FROM INGOT TO TARGET ARTICLE)

Causes for leading can be traced to POSITION OF THE LEADING.

Leading at the MUZZLE END, shows that the bullet RAN OUT OF LUBE in his article.

Granted your Semi-Auto is not a revolver, but is it POSSIBLE that you did not have enough coating on the projectile?

Do you know the size of your BORE?

Is it possible that your BULLET FIT, POWDER CHARGE, and COATING ADHESION were possibly lacking?

What COLOR did you use and how many COATS 2 OR 3?

Did you ACETONE RUB FOR 30 SECONDS to check for color coming off?

Did you Do the SMASH TEST to check for FLAKING of the coating?

Both tests NEED TO BE DONE WITH EACH COAT.

What Temperature and How Long did you bake?

Did you use a CONVECTION OVEN?

How much ALLOY or PROJECTILES did you BAKE PER LOAD?



9MM can have varied sizes and chamber depths which cause ISSUES for handloaders.

The article also talks of PROPER LEAD HARDNESS to match the VELOCITY/PRESSURE of the round.

The article also talks of the POWDER BURN RATE.

I just shot some 45ACP and 38 SPECIAL that were VERY SOFT (8 Brinell or so) and they were

coated with the "GOLD" Metallic. These are LOWER PRESSURE than your 9MM, but worked for me.

The article also speaks of using "BRONZE WOOL" in place of CHORE BOY as it makes LESS OF A MESS WHEN SCISSOR CUT.

When experimenting with cast boolits and coatings you have to be prepared to DEAL WITH LEADING,

until you have YOUR PROCESS VALIDATED.

GOOD LUCK with you search for answers with coatings and your SPECIFIC firearm.

[Moonman]

Magana559,

I went back to page 99 and read your posts.

Ausglock SUGGESTS YOU DUMP THE FCD and get a Dillon CRIMP DIE, this may very well be your easy answer.

[Magana559]

Magana559,

I'm not sure if all this applies.

SEARCH for FROM INGOT TO TARGET, a Sticky in Cast Boolits.

It concerns a revolver and shooting cast bullets.

LOOK at Page 58 about LEADING. (FROM INGOT TO TARGET ARTICLE)

Causes for leading can be traced to POSITION OF THE LEADING.

Leading at the MUZZLE END, shows that the bullet RAN OUT OF LUBE in his article.

Granted your Semi-Auto is not a revolver, but is it POSSIBLE that you did not have enough coating on the projectile?

Do you know the size of your BORE?
Yes bore is .355 using .356-.358 boolits with no luck
Is it possible that your BULLET FIT, POWDER CHARGE, and COATING ADHESION were possibly lacking?

What COLOR did you use and how many COATS 2 OR 3?

using copper read with 2 coats

Did you ACETONE RUB FOR 30 SECONDS to check for color coming off?

Did you Do the SMASH TEST to check for FLAKING of the coating?

Both tests NEED TO BE DONE WITH EACH COAT.

smash test and acetone test done after each coat with NO color on white paper towel.

What Temperature and How Long did you bake?

Did you use a CONVECTION OVEN?

I use a convection oven at 380 and I bake for 8-12 min depending on color


How much ALLOY or PROJECTILES did you BAKE PER LOAD?

about 150-200 per bake I have a small oven with one rack



9MM can have varied sizes and chamber depths which cause ISSUES for handloaders.

The article also talks of PROPER LEAD HARDNESS to match the VELOCITY/PRESSURE of the round.

The article also talks of the POWDER BURN RATE.

I just shot some 45ACP and 38 SPECIAL that were VERY SOFT (8 Brinell or so) and they were

coated with the "GOLD" Metallic. These are LOWER PRESSURE than your 9MM, but worked for me.

The article also speaks of using "BRONZE WOOL" in place of CHORE BOY as it makes LESS OF A MESS WHEN SCISSOR CUT.

When experimenting with cast boolits and coatings you have to be prepared to DEAL WITH LEADING,

until you have YOUR PROCESS VALIDATED.

GOOD LUCK with you search for answers with coatings and your SPECIFIC firearm.

[HI-TEK]

Magana559,

I'm not sure if all this applies.

SEARCH for FROM INGOT TO TARGET, a Sticky in Cast Boolits.

It concerns a revolver and shooting cast bullets.

LOOK at Page 58 about LEADING. (FROM INGOT TO TARGET ARTICLE)

Causes for leading can be traced to POSITION OF THE LEADING.

Leading at the MUZZLE END, shows that the bullet RAN OUT OF LUBE in his article.

Granted your Semi-Auto is not a revolver, but is it POSSIBLE that you did not have enough coating on the projectile?

Do you know the size of your BORE?
Yes bore is .355 using .356-.358 boolits with no luck
Is it possible that your BULLET FIT, POWDER CHARGE, and COATING ADHESION were possibly lacking?

What COLOR did you use and how many COATS 2 OR 3?

using copper read with 2 coats

Did you ACETONE RUB FOR 30 SECONDS to check for color coming off?

Did you Do the SMASH TEST to check for FLAKING of the coating?

Both tests NEED TO BE DONE WITH EACH COAT.

smash test and acetone test done after each coat with NO color on white paper towel.

What Temperature and How Long did you bake?

Did you use a CONVECTION OVEN?

I use a convection oven at 380 and I bake for 8-12 min depending on color


How much ALLOY or PROJECTILES did you BAKE PER LOAD?

about 150-200 per bake I have a small oven with one rack



9MM can have varied sizes and chamber depths which cause ISSUES for handloaders.

The article also talks of PROPER LEAD HARDNESS to match the VELOCITY/PRESSURE of the round.

The article also talks of the POWDER BURN RATE.

I just shot some 45ACP and 38 SPECIAL that were VERY SOFT (8 Brinell or so) and they were

coated with the "GOLD" Metallic. These are LOWER PRESSURE than your 9MM, but worked for me.

The article also speaks of using "BRONZE WOOL" in place of CHORE BOY as it makes LESS OF A MESS WHEN SCISSOR CUT.

When experimenting with cast boolits and coatings you have to be prepared to DEAL WITH LEADING,

until you have YOUR PROCESS VALIDATED.

GOOD LUCK with you search for answers with coatings and your SPECIFIC firearm.

Magana559

Just a quic question if you can please post a photo of the coated projectile.
Visual appearance will tell me a lot, and, it may be possible to identify what is going on.
At this stage, I am interested in the coating aspects, and if unable to identify things going wrong, we can go though things in steps to locate any problematic areas.

Hi-Tek

[Magana559]

Im going to dump the FCD and Im going to try and run them without a crimp and see how it goes.

I might go to another powder, Im using both Titegroup and autocomp with no success. Maybe I need a slower powder.

I have been battling this for 2 months. The reason why Im asking if anybody has any Ideas.

Ill try the lube in other calibers see how It works, will be back with a report!

[Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings]

Im going to dump the FCD and Im going to try and run them without a crimp and see how it goes.

A lot of folks tend to over crimp with a FCD. Just a standard Taper Crimp die is all one really needs. One way to test if your over crimping is to pull a bullet that you ran thru your FCD and measure it. Is Measure the same as before you loaded it.

[Dystaxia]

OK I just cleaned out my SR9c and the leadding is not all the way down the barrel, its only the last inch of the 3" barrel BUT its definitely not coming out with just a bore brush.....I sure hope I dont run into this when I start using cast in the rifles! The lead is bonded to the steel, I cannot brush it out and cant find any chore boy in the house.

I dont know what is causing this issue. But it seems like the HI TEK coating is working because the bore is super shiny except the last inch.
ANY input would be more than welcome!

What mold are you using?