Jesus, Grem.
Talk about over thinking it.
The pop top juice bottles work fine. you drink the juic and then use to mix your coating. easy..
Jesus, Grem.
Talk about over thinking it.
The pop top juice bottles work fine. you drink the juic and then use to mix your coating. easy..
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Your posts and a few others convinced me to go the Breville smart oven,
Happy with the price I paid, $240 pacific pasos at the current exchange rate about US$215, from my local electrical retailer, not bad for a little town of less than 1000 people over 400kms from the nearest capital city.
+1 for the 20 ounce Plastic Coke Cola Bottle and a set of KITCHEN MIXING SPOONS.
In the US, Three (3) Teaspoons (5 ml) = 1 Tablespoon, However,
In Australia and the UK FOUR (4) Teaspoons (5 ml) = 1 Tablespoon.
(IN CASE YOU'RE MAKING A BIGGER BATCH.)
I learned something today.
I want to be acurate, am that anal when I turn up tooling parts, rebuild engines, reco gearboxes and play with my guns.
7mls, is 7 mls.. and now I can repeat 7mls every time, without mistakes, and you ridicule me for being accurate?
It cost $2 to be accurate... is that wrong?
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
not wrong, just not needed.
220... where did you get it? Hardly Normal or the good guys?
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Local Betta Electrical, they didn't have one in stock, asked them if they could get one, they could, asked them to if they could better the prices from the others and they did.
End up buying most of my electrical appliances of them, always give them a chance to better/match or get close to the prices of the others and they rarely disappoint.
I like to support the local businesses and these people make it easy to do so, also a bonus they are 400m away compared to 80km+ to any of the others.
Well I cant figure out why my Ruger SR9c leads the barrel so bad. with regular lead and grease groves it would foul out the barrel within 3 rounds,with the tumble lube it takes about 12 rounds. Now with the Hi-Tek I get about 25-30 rounds before keyholing.
Slugged out at 356 and I have tried up from .356 to .358 diameter with no luck. Im guessing this pistol just wont take cast.
Family issues came up so I only tested the 9mm, Ill have all other calibers tested by the end of next week.
Wish me luck!
1,000,000 peso man
How hard is your alloy?
Try 3 thin coats and see how it goes. Is it leaded all the way along the bore?
Do you use a lee carbide crimp die?
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
No hardness tester as of now but I Tried COWW, 50-50 COWW SOWW, 50-50 SOWW and range scrap, and SOWW with 2% pewter. All with the same results of leading down the entire barrel.
I am using a lee FCD, Could the FCD be swaging the lead down causing a bad fit?
1,000,000 peso man
Very interesting results.
Can I ask, if it would be possible to capture a projectile and examine what it looks like after being shot.
That examination, should provide some ideas as to what is happening.
You should not be getting Leading along the entire barrel.
That scenario is making me suspicious about possible other contributing factors for the resulting Leading.
Last edited by HI-TEK; 12-06-2013 at 02:54 AM.
Yep. The Lee FCD caused this exact same thing in my Glock 35 40S&W barrel. removed the FCD and replaced it with a Dillon crimp die and no more problems.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
I can try and capture the projectile but its probably going into water jugs or wet pack if I find enough phone books.
I'll try to minimly bell the case and shoot em without a crimp, but I wonder if that will cause the boolit to jump into the bore and cause a pressure spike.
1,000,000 peso man
You can make your own ballistic type gel by using commercial Gelatine made into firm blocks as you would make up Jelly, but use less water to make it harder.
You can make up several blocks, and number will depend on what ammo you are using.
Place blocks in line and shoot into it from a distance, and hopefully, you can capture the alloy.
When blocks are damaged too much, simply gently re-heat and re-pour into blocks again and allow to set.
It works
What bad acetone? Lol
Leadman, it happened to me! Drove me crazy for two days before it was figured out with the help of others! I went back to my original brand of acetone and poof, coating that worked! Well, worked as well as can be expected for snake oil! Lol
As far as coating my bullets, I measure by weight (35 pounds) and use 20 ml of coating when using metallics, and 15 ml when using non-metallics. I give them all 3 coats because they look better. People buy with their eyes!
I never really figured out how many I get per liter. When I start to get low, I just add to the bottle.
Gatewaybullets.com
Magana - http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20100311025
formulation for gel.
Whatever!
What is the shelf life for the Hi-Tek coatings. I've read this entire thread and then did a search for shelf life but came up empty. I did find a couple posts that mentioned keeping both mixed and un-mixed components refrigerated to extend the shelf life, but saw nothing advising what the expected shelf life is (mixed or unmixed)..............?
I have been looking at the clear ballistics gel from http://clearballistics.com/ but they are quite $$$
best part is I don't have to keep the block at a critical temp or worry about storage and can be used over and over.
1,000,000 peso man
Please find attached a recipe which is easy to do, and it works.
Just need Gelatine from wholesaler, not retail packs as they are much too expensive.
INGREDIENTS REQUIRED FOR GEL MANUFACTURE
Starting point To make about 10 kilos of Gel
1. 1.0 kilo of Cryogel 200 (Raw Food Grade/Industrial Gelatine)
2. 9 Kilo of Boiling water
3. 300mls of Citric Acid solution, 50% strength, ( Premix 150g Citric Acid to 150g warm Water)
Sprinkle Cryogel into water whilst mixing.
Stir continuously for 5 minutes, add the 300mls Citric Acid solution (to help preserve the mix)
Pack into suitable vessels coated with vegetable oil to reduce sticking.
Refrigerate to set quickly, or let sit overnight at ambient conditions.
This recipe should provide reasonably firm Gel.
If more hardness is required for the finished Gel, increase Cryogel additions by 100 gram increments, until desired hardness is reached after product is allowed to cool totally.
Depending on type and velocity of projectiles required to be captured, place as many blocks in depth as required, and until projectiles are captured and are accessible for removal.
Used gel , can be recycled, by gently warming until liquid again, and then poured back into suitable containers to re-set into desired shape.
It is better to add used gel into small amount hot freshly prepared mixture, as it will redissolve faster whilst mixing into hot liquid, whilst stirring & applying more gentle heat to aid re-solubilise used gel.
It is recommended that the formed blocks of Gel, is placed suitable distance away from user , to minimise impact damage.
PLEASE NOTE.
After use the gel becomes contaminated with Lead and other materials and is no longer food grade rated.
When handling gel, it is better to use gloved hands.
Take care that whilst making gel, the product is hot.
Do not use Galvanised or Tin Plated vessels to make the gel.
Stainless containers are the most recommended vessels for manufacture and remanufacture of the gel.
The resin system is stable as long as you ensure that lid is tight, and kept out of sunlight.
I have had reports of coating used after a year without problems.
Once catalysed, they have limited shelf life of a few days to a couple of weeks, and will depend on temperatures at which they are stored.
With catalysed system, you should make up enough to use up completely so there is no wastage, and you use freshly made coating mixture each time.
Because coating goes a long way, and a little covers many projectiles, it is much better to cast too much, and then coat until you run out of mixture, even if you have cast left over, which can be done with next batch.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |