simple Hi-Tek coating

[DerekP Houston]

So will mixed powder "keep"? Just add some acetone and go, I assume?

Initially I kept mixing it for each batch and had poor results. it works MUCH better if you mix up a large batch and just add a touch of acetone when it gets a bit too heavy. I make a 1/2 qt at a time in my mason jar a bit on the thinner side per directions. With the lid on mine has lasted weeks (generally that's how long it takes me to use it up).

[popper]

I think I learned a lesson. I'll take my boolits in to be de-humidified before coating. Humidity was near dew point when I coated so damp boolits get coated and air dry - oops, coating captures the moisture. Also wondering, as this is a 3 part coating (cat, resin, color) if color is affected by moisture. What say ye Joe? Don't care about the color, do care about strength.

[DerekP Houston]

I think I learned a lesson. I'll take my boolits in to be de-humidified before coating. Humidity was near dew point when I coated so damp boolits get coated and air dry - oops, coating captures the moisture. Also wondering, as this is a 3 part coating (cat, resin, color) if color is affected by moisture. What say ye Joe? Don't care about the color, do care about strength.

oh hmmmm I hadn't considered humidity either. I know it affects PC coverage. I'll wait for the pro's down under to give us the skinny. Either way it is an excellent product that's saved me tons of time over picking up boolits with hemostats!

[popper]

Nothing wrong with his product, just trying to get it to work all the time. Learned fast about humidity and ASBBDT. I don't do it anymore.

[Avenger442]

Humidity has been 80-90% the last week and a half and temps in the 90s. The only relief is when it rains. Temp drops but when it stops the humidity is even worse. Must be the same or worse down in Louisiana where Donnie is. I know the instructions say don't coat in a closed space but I moved into the basement which has a dehumidifier running 24/7. Nice 50% humidity in there. Temperature is still 75 to 80 degrees in the basement so have a fan that blows on me. I also run a unit with a HEPA filter to keep fumes down when casting and coating.

What are the possible consequences of coating indoors? I worked for 40 years in construction areas with all kinds of smoke, fumes and dust so they don't really bother me as far as an annoyance. But I do understand the need for safety.

[bilco]

You are partly correct. Thin coats initially is more crucial with first coat applications. These dry quickly, and have maximum adhesion when baked. First coat, must pass smash test and solvent tests first, before applying subsequent coats.
Subsequent coats can be applied thicker, as these will bond to first coat.
As long as first coat is baked adequately, and has bonded, all should be OK afterwards.

So for the liquid hi-tek 2 what's the suggested ratios?

[slide]

5 parts color, 5-8 parts acetone, 1 part hardener

[Ausglock]

We get 80 to 85%RH and temps of 35 to 40 deg C. Coating in this environment still works. I have 4 fans blowing over the trays of coated bullets. 10 to 15 minutes and they are good to bake.
Just remember to still pre-warm them on top of the oven prior to baking. this helps displace moisture and raise the temp of the alloy before baking.

Coating indoors is the only way I do it. good ventilation is needed.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=popper; What say ye Joe? Don't care about the color, do care about strength.[/QUOTE]


Popper,
Humidity problems are easily overcome.
Simply have your alloy pre-warmed about 10 degrees above ambient prior to coating. After coating, quickly, (especially with first coat) the residual warmth contained in alloy, will help dry coating much faster, and also minimise moisture pick up.

During the coating process, evaporation of solvent simply chills alloy, by up to 5 degrees Celsius, so it attracts moisture towards coating that is trying to dry.

The attracted moisture is trapped inside drying coating, (below skin that is formed), and this is majority of reasons why failures occur with smash tests after baking.
The trapped moisture, expands up to 1000 times plus, of its original volume, and simply lifts coating from alloy. The "lifted coating" exposed to heat, bakes OK, and cures, but is not bonded, so, it simply flakes off with smash tests.

[DerekP Houston]

Popper,
Humidity problems are easily overcome.
Simply have your alloy pre-warmed about 10 degrees above ambient prior to coating. After coating, quickly, (especially with first coat) the residual warmth contained in alloy, will help dry coating much faster, and also minimise moisture pick up.

During the coating process, evaporation of solvent simply chills alloy, by up to 5 degrees Celsius, so it attracts moisture towards coating that is trying to dry.

The attracted moisture is trapped inside drying coating, (below skin that is formed), and this is majority of reasons why failures occur with smash tests after baking.
The trapped moisture, expands up to 1000 times plus, of its original volume, and simply lifts coating from alloy. The "lifted coating" exposed to heat, bakes OK, and cures, but is not bonded, so, it simply flakes off with smash tests.

Ahhhhh that explains my first failure with black! Was a humid day when I tried and I did not preheat the bullets at all. Thanks for the follow up.

[Avenger442]

We rarely see the 104 F Ausglock mentioned but the humidity comes on strong during the summer sometimes. Worst temp I can remember was summer 1977 I think that was the right year. 108 in the shade. I was working outside on a warehouse project.

Started using the Dark Blue color today. Not having very much luck with it so far. Going to dump this batch, shake up the powder and have another go at it later this week. Really want the color in this one. I'm kind of like Popper, performance over looks is the important thing. All show and no go was never a good thing with me even when I was working with my cars. But I need some orange and blue bullets to annoy the Alabama fans at the range.

[HI-TEK]

[QUOTE=Avenger442;

Started using the Dark Blue color today. Not having very much luck with it so far. Going to dump this batch, shake up the powder and have another go at it later this week. Really want the color in this one. I'm kind of like Popper, performance over looks is the important thing. All show and no go was never a good thing with me even when I was working with my cars. But I need some orange and blue bullets to annoy the Alabama fans at the range.[/QUOTE]

Avenger,
That dark blue coating powder is very strong. The colour intensity is extremely high. Ausglock has diluted it 20g to 150 mls Acetone and it worked just great, using 6 mls of that mixture onto 250 projectiles, and baked at 200C. Picture is attached
Also, we have a so called Orange, but turns out a desert sand colour after bake. Picture attached.

[Ausglock]

Avenger... The colour actually get stronger the longer you swirl.
20gms to 150ml Acetone worked best.

[Avenger442]

Thanks for the suggestions and photos guys. I had mixed it 20 mg to 110 ml. Will go to the 150 ml with next batch.

[DerekP Houston]

Is it just my eyes/screen? That blue above looks green in the picture to me.

Side note, I see you guys are using plastic bottles to store this in! Any particular kind that doesn't degrade or can I use anything handy? I'd hate to ruin another glass mason jar if I don't need to.

[slide]

I get mine at a beauty supply house. They have a good cap that seals well and are marked on the side for measuring. The last I bought was $1.50 each. They will handle acetone with no problem. If the stand up to the chemicals women put on their hair acetone is no problem. I will try to post a photo later but got to go now.

[DerekP Houston]

I get mine at a beauty supply house. They have a good cap that seals well and are marked on the side for measuring. The last I bought was $1.50 each. They will handle acetone with no problem. If the stand up to the chemicals women put on their hair acetone is no problem. I will try to post a photo later but got to go now.

Thanks! There is a wholesale type beauty place near the walmart I go to, I'll pop in and see what they have.

[wlkjr]

I've been using the plastic condiment bottles like restaurants use for mustard and ketchup. They tend to leak a little if you shake them hard but I just swirl it really well. I don't measure out the amount when coating. I do a short squirt and shake well in a covered plastic tub. This has worked well for me. I may need to check out the containers from a beauty supply house although the others work fine for me. I use 2 level tablespoons of powder with 3.5 oz. of acetone.
The blue above also looks greenish on my computer. Maybe it is just the lighting. I love the Candy Apple Red but am disappointed with the Zombi Green. I received some Dark Green yesterday along with Bronze 500. The Dark Green mixes well like the Red does. The Bronze mixes about like the Zombi Green; the pigment settling in about 15 seconds.

[slide]

I tried the condiment bottles, didn't like them. You can take some Teflon tape and wrap around the threads on the lids and will generally stop the leaks. One thing about the beauty supply bottles,you can tighten the lids up pretty tight. Don't go overboard with the tightening and use the tape and you will be good to go.

[popper]

Thanks Joe, I'm going to leave the boolits in the AC inside for a day, coat inside - cook outside.