Just a couple of things, the web site is not Hi-Tek's website.
What Ausglock has stated is, that 20gms (about 3/4oz) of the Powdered Hi-Tek, when made up with solvent to ready to use concentration, should coat using two coats, about 2100 9mm projectiles, and possibly more from my calculations.
If you are referring to the liquid version, the half litre pack should do as was advised.
Most suggestions of coverage is advised with a conservative number, so users can get at least that sort of volumes when they use that coating. Many get far more than quoted. Final quantity produced will really depend on user and finish required.
Powder coatings generally require 20 minutes baking. I don't know power costs, but that is about twice the baking time as required with the Hi-Tek coatings.
Cost benefits here appear to support Hi-Tek .
I don't know just how much powder can be applied to each projectile, but from what I have seen, the powder coatings, vary from about 3 thou to 11 thou on the surfaces of same alloy, versus about 1.5 to 1.6 thou using Hi-Tek.
Costs can only be made as direct comparison, if user can identify actually, how much product is used in coating each projectile, and then taking into consideration of product that is not used/lost during coating processes.
I don't know for sure, but benefits seem to favour the Hi-Tek as coating is much more evenly applied, and very little or no losses of product.
If costs are only compared and based on purchase price on a specific quantity of product, this is not an accurate way to obtain cost efficiency for each product.
This is only initial out of pocket expense.
Just how much powder coat ends up being used on a specific quantity of projectiles?
We already know how many projectiles can be coated with Hi-Tek.
Rough calculations indicate, that using Hi-Tek and applying two coats, costs about $0.0001 cent each.
With buying of powder coating, if it works out cheaper by 2 times, and then have 5-8 times more coating applied to alloy, (not including losses), it may change cost to a guessed amount of $0.0002.
I do not really see a practical price benefit at all, when considering just how much labour and power is involved to produce each product, and comparative volumes that can be produced using same labour content on each method.
I really would appreciate feed back from users that may have already carried out such comparative costs to produce their product.
It was from
http://hi-performancebulletcoatings....ercoat-powder/
For a shipping quote, call Hi-Performance Bullet Coatings and ask for Donnie Miculek at 225-324-4501.
Is this not the same person as in post #9150? Is this not the same person you are purchasing your Hi-Tek materials from?
Last edited by 6bg6ga; 09-15-2017 at 06:06 AM.
Donnie is the U.S. supplier. Hi-Tek is made in Australia and shipped to the U.S. Hi-Tek Joe invented the stuff. I really think you would be better off with the powder coat.
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
I'm on the fence with respect to powder coating or Hi-Tek coating verses normal sizing lubing with my Star sizer with a bullet feeder on it. I don't like to play with the sticky messy lube so I am seeking an alternative method.
Yes, as mentioned I have a lb of powder coat that I will play with in an attempt to see if its easier and works any bit better than sized/ lubed bullets. I would like to see if anyone on this thread will respond with information like number of bullets processed with the coating material and time involved. I can do about 9K bullets with 1.5 sticks of Blue Angel or 50/50 lube so the cost is low. The blue lube stays in the lube groove so one can load without loosing 1/2 of the lube from each bullet. I also like the idea of a bullet that won't smoke up an indoor range too.
I will also purchase some Hi-Tek powder material and give that a try in order to obtain a decent idea of performance, cost, and effort needed. I will point out I'm not interested in finding out how much electricity is used as that is a mute point for me. I have a Ballisti-cast bullet casting machine that probably uses far more power than any small pot used with hand held molds.
I've done both powder coating and hi-tek coating and for me, the hi-tek seems to be faster and more consistent. I can generally process about 500 rounds in about 30 min with hi-tek. I'm using a small toaster oven to bake the coating, so I can only do about 250 rounds at a time. Even still, I can get two coats of hi-tek on and size all 500 rounds in that 30 minutes.
With powder coating, I've used both a plastic tub and BBs and tumbled by hand and also used a vibratory case tumbler and let it coat the bullets. To do the same 500 bullets it was taking me about 45-50 minutes at the fastest. The biggest reason was how long it takes to bake on the powder coat. Each batch only needed one coat, but it took 20 minutes to cure. So if I do 2 batches, that's 40 minutes total, just waiting for the bullets to bake.
Overall, I like the hi-tek better. I can get bullets done faster, the coating was more consistent and covered better, and cost was on par with cheap HF powder coat. Performance-wise I didn't notice a difference between PC and hi-tek.
Mods, we need a "Like" button!!!!!
Edit, We need the "Like" button enabled!!! That's what I meant to say....
Be careful what you wish for!
My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-Shooter
Thanks Yall!
I just hooked up a manual house oven.. My question is what's the normal timing for 30 lbs of Hi-Tek in a house oven dedicated for baking projectials? Would I use the same timing as I did with 5 lbs projectiles in my small convection oven or would I up the time? Anyone here use a electric house oven and bake a large amount?
TonyN,
Just like the small ovens, it depends on the particular ovens ability to bring the bullet load to temp and it's ability to maintain the temp.
Reliable, repeatable temp control is key regardless of the size of the oven.
My large oven cured 38-40 lbs in 9 minutes.
My small oven cures 5 lbs in 10-11 minutes.
Thanks for the reply. I would like to see a picture of your new dark green color.
Haven't coated any for over 2 years, once I got the process sorted I did enough to keep me going for years.
Have run out of a few boolits so cast up another 30kg. Typically I didn't write down what was working for me so trying to work from rusty memory.
Using the original liquid I have gone with 5:1:10, applied at 5ml/2.5kg baked 210c for 12min.
Coverage looks a bit thin even after the second coat but passing the wipe and smash tests so I can always go 3 or 4 coats to get them looking pretty.
Liquid would be around 3 years old, stored in the shed so not ideal storage conditions but a newly mixed batch appears to still be function fine. I should have cleaned out my tumbling tub before I started as when I tumbled the second batch the HiTek that has been drying in the tub for 2years plus started flaking off.
Pretty.... Your going to make me buy more powder Joe
I coated 1200 9mm 147 grainers today, half of those black and the other half candy apple red. My small bottle of Kryptonite green had gone bad. It had a brown coating I could see through the bottle. After shaking for several minutes, the brown coating seemed to be getting lighter and coming off. I decided to discard it and squirted the contents into a barrel. The spout stopped up before I could empty it. I opened the top and dug out a big chunk of gunk that looked like caulk. That mixture was probably about 6 months old. I keep all my supplies in a cabinet with doors and my shop is climate controlled. This is not the first time this has happened. I usually mix just enough to do about 2000 or so boolits. Sometimes I have a couple of ounces left. It's cheap enough to make that I'll probably discard the remaining mixture unless I plan on using it in the next month or two.
That's interesting. I was noticing something similar with my batch of Kryptonite Green, the only difference is I noticed it after I had already coated bullets. I thought it was just me cooking them a little too long, and the color changing but maybe I just need to stop being a cheapskate and mix up another batch.
They shot just fine regardless of the reason, but they certainly look a lot prettier when they're the right color.
Just my two cents worth with settling matters, when the coating mixture has been made up ready for coating, letting it sit for extended periods can cause settling and compacting of ingredients, as well as loss of solvent.
The product should work OK but it is better when sediment is totally re-mixed in again, even if you need to add a little solvent to compensate for evaporation losses.
Mixtures are reasonably stable aside from sedimentation, and viscosity and colour may darken somewhat, and changes will depend on period of storage.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |