Powder Coating Boolits

[ipijohn]

[QUOTE=oopso;3021206]If I spray in the yard the wife is concerned the grandkids will come in in various shades of powder coat. I keep thinking about all the downdraft paint systems in body shops. Come spring (or before then if weather permits) I`m going to set a budget of $35.00 and see what I can create. Not cheap just creative.[/QUOTE ]

A box fan with a furnace filter stacked on top of it works well for a cheap down draft set up.

[Gohon]

For the last two weeks I've been giving powder coating a whirl without having to use a gun and have tried every suggested method through out the internet. Tumble using a butter cup with just powder, with airsoft bb's added, mixing acetone, mixing paint thinner, using a brass vibrator with powder and bb,s, with butter cup and bb's inside tumbler and a host of other methods.

For what ever reason I cannot for the life of me get the coating that others claim to get. Only option left is to break down and buy the powder coating spray gun and do it right. Problem is, I want the base of the casts to be coated and that's not possible with the gun. My goal is to push cast to the low end of jacketed bullets if that's even possible possible so I was thinking the base should be covered to form kind of a gas check.

[WallyM3]

[ipijohn]

For the last two weeks I've been giving powder coating a whirl without having to use a gun and have tried every suggested method through out the internet. Tumble using a butter cup with just powder, with airsoft bb's added, mixing acetone, mixing paint thinner, using a brass vibrator with powder and bb,s, with butter cup and bb's inside tumbler and a host of other methods.

For what ever reason I cannot for the life of me get the coating that others claim to get. Only option left is to break down and buy the powder coating spray gun and do it right. Problem is, I want the base of the casts to be coated and that's not possible with the gun. My goal is to push cast to the low end of jacketed bullets if that's even possible possible so I was thinking the base should be covered to form kind of a gas check.

Funny you should think that, the FMJ boat tails that I shoot through my AR at 3600 fps have a lead base that is not coated or covered with anything?

[Beagle333]

This comes up often. Here is a recent thread on it.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...llet-base-work

[ebner glocken]

For the last two weeks I've been giving powder coating a whirl without having to use a gun and have tried every suggested method through out the internet. Tumble using a butter cup with just powder, with airsoft bb's added, mixing acetone, mixing paint thinner, using a brass vibrator with powder and bb,s, with butter cup and bb's inside tumbler and a host of other methods.

For what ever reason I cannot for the life of me get the coating that others claim to get. Only option left is to break down and buy the powder coating spray gun and do it right. Problem is, I want the base of the casts to be coated and that's not possible with the gun. My goal is to push cast to the low end of jacketed bullets if that's even possible possible so I was thinking the base should be covered to form kind of a gas check.

Just a guess, has it been damp and cool to cold in your geographic area? The hotter and dryer the better the tumble methods will work. I can understand someone never doing this before getting really frustrated by trying for the first time in November. Hope this helps.

Ebner

[bangerjim]

For the last two weeks I've been giving powder coating a whirl without having to use a gun and have tried every suggested method through out the internet. Tumble using a butter cup with just powder, with airsoft bb's added, mixing acetone, mixing paint thinner, using a brass vibrator with powder and bb,s, with butter cup and bb's inside tumbler and a host of other methods.

For what ever reason I cannot for the life of me get the coating that others claim to get. Only option left is to break down and buy the powder coating spray gun and do it right. Problem is, I want the base of the casts to be coated and that's not possible with the gun. My goal is to push cast to the low end of jacketed bullets if that's even possible possible so I was thinking the base should be covered to form kind of a gas check.

Was your "butter cup" a #5 plastic? Look on the bottom for the recycle symbol. #5 coolwhip or screw-on ziplok's work the best for me. But as said many times in the PC threads, hunidity is your worst enemy using BBDT. Hot and dry is the best. Even here in the SW desert during our "monsoon" season when the DP is in the high 50's, it is kinda hit an miss. That is why I have both the HF gun and the Amazon gun. ESPC will usually work 100% of the time. Well, mabe not in a downpour or fog!. Even then, you will get coating.

I have never seen ANY advantage to coating the base. Your normal grease provides no protection, so why would you expect to gain much with PC? If you are concerned about gas cutting, use a Cu GC like I do on all sonic and rifle loads. Do not rely on PC.

If you insist on having the bottom coated, dampen a paper towel with acetone, put a VERY thin layer of powder in a lid, tap the uncoated base on the damp towel (after initial bake, of course!!!), tap in powder and rebake laying on the side. You will then get a coated base..... for whatever reason you think you need it. Key is very little acetone or you will end up with a lumpy glumpy mess on the base!!!!!!!

Have fun!

This also works for those out there that want a nose of a different color! Can you say "Rudolph"???????


bangerjim

[Gohon]

I have never seen ANY advantage to coating the base. Your normal grease provides no protection, so why would you expect to gain much with PC? If you are concerned about gas cutting, use a Cu GC like I do on all sonic and rifle loads. Do not rely on PC.

I guess what "gain much" means to one. I do use gas checks on a lot of my casts because of the velocity I sometimes shoot them. But if I can gain another 150-200 fps on a plain base cast with this system it would be worth it to me.

For example..... in my Marlin 45 Colt rifle I'm pushing a RCBS 45-270-SAA lubed with LLA at 1446 fps with great accuracy and good hunting power. If I can move that up to 1600 fps with no issues then the addition energy gain (282 fpe) is well worth it to me and the need for a similar gas check design mold is eliminated. I really like this bullet design and use it a lot in both revolver and rifle. Might be that even at 1600 fps the bare bottom may not be a issue so I intend to take it to the limit. I just simply stopped testing at 1446 fps because of accuracy. Gas cutting I'm not concerned about because these are sized properly but a little protection on the base of the cast would be useful. Anyway, it gives me something to do when weather gets in the way of shooting.

[lyks2playe]

Beagle333,
What kind of thermometer you got in the oven? and where did you get it?. I just got 1 of them old Black & Decker ovens and I wanted to see how close the temperature is to the dial, so i know how far if any I am off?
Thanks Guy

[Beagle333]

I got this one locally at Publix. About 5 bucks, I think.
http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-5932-Th...en+thermometer

[Gunslingerdoc]

Hi, Im on page 85 of this thread and thought Id chime in on an issue lots to seem to have (up to that point)....

Vertical stringing.

Back when Moly coating was big in the High power scene - I was there. I remember being very frustrated by the less fouling but less accurate, vertical stringing match loads I was getting. load worked great uncoated, went to hell with moly - after spending a few $hundreds I didn't have in college, I was frustrated and broker. so I called up the NECO (I think?) and spoke with one of the guys that developed the process. He said the problem was the coated bullets were essentially too slick for the neck tension and I was getting uneven or too little neck tension.

I chucked my expander button in the drill and polished about .001 off and Presto - increased neck tension, no more vertical stringing.

This may be the problem -- coated bullets have less friction both in the bore and at the neck. now with all the collet dies one can get someone needs to see if this makes a difference.

I'd do it but I just got a 20% off coupon from HF and Im ordering the gun today, so Im behind the curve compared to you guys in the process.

Hope that helps and thanks for the awesome thread!

[popper]

Humidity is the DT killer. 20% R.H works fine. increased neck tension, no more vertical stringing. I agree, proper tension. I coat the bases, double coating now (flat nose so I DT then ES the base & bands). Pushing 1900+ PB in 2 30 cal. rifles. I tried uncoated bases with the RD311165 in 30/30, dismal results.

[Smoke4320]

Popper
I agree with the Neck tension and the Coated bases.. Also have both 308 and 300 Blkout going over 1900 FPS and getting excellent accuracy
Also a 45-70 going right at 1600 Again Great accuracy..
All three only came into their own with I started Crimping and Base coating

[Gunslingerdoc]

You guys are killing me! Ordered my hf gun, bought a convection oven from chimart...and I'm seriously looking at a 12.5" 300 BO build.

My original goals seem to be met with you guys' results with PC ing..

1. Loading cast boolits without having to clean out lube from the seating die on my Dillion's every 150 rounds (I WAS a tumble lube fan). Sucks to have a reloader that can do 1k/hr cut down to 3-400/hr.

2. Shoot lead bullets thru a suppressor...anyone who shoots suppressed 22lr can tell you their can cleaning stories or about sending their sealed cans back to be cleaned ever 4-5k rounds. Problem with most non 22lr cans is they're sealed and most manufactures void your Warrenty if you shoot lead...problem solved with PC bullets...sounds like it. Once I'm set up I'll burn a few thru a suppressed subgun and verify.

3. Less or no leading...I'm tired of playing with different lubes, temps, alloys. I just want to shoot my made up ww/solder/Lino combo that mimics Lyman #2. It casts great and I have lots. My dad and I have been debating 'magic wonder ' alloys since he got me into casting 5 yrs ago...PC'ing may be the debate ender.

next goal is a consistent rifle bullet technique that I can load 30-30, 223, 7.62x54 to jacketed velocities and get 1.5 moa accuracy out of...oh yeah and get a mold for 300BO -- a good subsonic hunting boolit....I'm tired of the damn deer eating my fruit trees and my kids like deer jerky!

any suggestions on where to start for a HP 300BO mold?

[Smoke4320]

I will try to answer in order ..
#1 Absolutely correct
#2 I am up to at least 1000 rds thru a YHM 308 suppressor and see no buildup at all .. Shot with a 308 and a Blackout .. Both suppressed and Full power (approx. 1900 FPS ) .. at least 400 thru a 458 socom suppressor at approx. 1600 FPS and no sign of buildup
#3 Should Not be an issue at all.. As stated above 1900 FPS very accurately with 50/50/2 alloy

Next Goal.. we are all working toward Reaching Jacketed velocities ACCURATELY.. we can do so on the bottom end of that scale now.. and I believe we will at least get to the middle of the scale with a few more discoveries and hopefully higher

[Gunslingerdoc]

Decided to check my tooster oven vs. my Lyman (made in China) thermometer and found my 'oven' was running about 75 degrees too hot. It's a convection oven so shouldn't have a hot spot. Question is, is my oven that off or could it be a combination of a Chinese thermometer with a Chinese oven making the error worse than it actually is.

Your thoughts?

Is it work taking the oven back and hoping to get a more accurate one? Or are most of them this bad?

[huntnman]

The thermometer reading doesn't matter, repeatability is the key. If you're powder melts, you cook long enough, and are capable of passing the smash test. To ensure durability of the coating. I do not care if either one of the thermometers are 100% correct. Just a point of reference.

[bangerjim]

Ignore the calibrations on the knob dial! Test for repeatability with a thermometer.

Then make a mark at 400F on the dial. That is the only temp you need to worry about setting the knob at.

All ovens are off to different degrees. They all use cheap bi-metal t-stats. Don't worry about it.

bangerjim

[Gunslingerdoc]

I'm laughing because that's exactly what I did...I love a sharpie!

[Smoke4320]

The Key is are you getting a good flow of the powder when heating and will the end result bullets pass the smash test .. if so no worries ..