Converting brass

[Pirate69]

I need to convert some 30-06 brass to 8X57mm brass. I was looking at trim dies to use after I run the 30-06 brass through the 8X57mm FL sizing die. Found the two below at Midway. I don't understand what the first trim die will do that the second trim die won't. Looks like I will need to FL resize the 30-06 brass before trimming in each case. Are they saying that is being done in one step with the first die? Can someone educate me as to why I need to spend the extra $11.50? Help!! Thanks in advance.

1) RCBS Trim and Form Die 8x57mm Mauser (8mm Mauser) from 30-06 Springfield $39.50


2) Redding Trim Die 8x57mm (8mm Mauser) $28.00

[sixpointfive]

I cut the 06 cases with tubing cutter about 3/16". Then I run them in the 8mm full length Sixer. I do this in three passes turning the die down a little more each pass. Annealing cases before and after forming.

[dragonrider]

I don't use a trim die, I form o6 brass in an 8x57 die, I then trim the excess on a Lyman univerasal case trimmer, anneal, then once more in the 8x57 full length size die. It works well.

[Kraschenbirn]

No trim die here, either. Anneal '06 brass before forming in an 8x57 full-length die, trim with a 'micro' tubing cutter (used, normally, for cutting small diameter tubing like icemaker lines), chamfer inside and out, and load for final fire-forming. Trim again after cases are fire-formed and neck-size only after that.

Bill

[GrizzLeeBear]

I don't see why you would want to run the brass through a form and trim die AFTER you have already formed it in the 8mm sizing die?
I had good luck with the Redding die. The Redding die is "chamber" sized, it pushes the shoulder back and sizes to about the size a fired 8mm would be. Annealing the 06 brass first does help make it easier and you will loose fewer brass. After using the Redding die and trimming to length, you will need to run them through the full length 8mm sizer. I got fewer wrinkles in the necks when using the Redding form die vs using the full length sizer die alone.
Also, if you are doing a lot of them, get one of the little tubing cutter chop saws that Harbor Freight sells for about $30. Makes a fairly clean cut and will save a LOT of wear on your trimmer (and you) even if you have a power trimmer. You just cut it a little long with the chop saw and then use your trimmer to get it to final trim-to length. I originally got mine to cut down 06 brass for 8x57, but I have found it to come in very handy when making a few other calibers of brass as well.

[UBER7MM]

I find that the necks are too thick after reforming 30'06 brass to 8x57 JS. The boolits won't fit in the cases easily. So I add a few extra steps. I expand the necks to .323" and then neck turning them. Then I expand the necks again to get a flare on the rim. I fire form the cases. They work great.

BTW: I also mark any case that I’ve reformed by staining the rim with Brass Black for safety. If any of my case's rims are blackened, then they aren't what the stamping says on the bottoms.

IMHO, after all of that work, it's probably cheaper to buy a bag of commercial brass in 8x57 JS. But it's always good to know how to reform brass if you need to.

[frnkeore]

I've made 8x57 and 308 out of '06 for about 15 years. The hard way first and then I got a trim die last year for the 8x57 (I had the 308 trim die). I never anneal the brass and just lube and run into the trim die. I like to run them in a little short (.010 - .015) and use my case trimmer to finish the lenght to get a better finish on the mouth and a 2.240 finished length. The reason for that is to put a heavy chamfer on the mouth to help start a cast bullet w/o flaring the mouth or just slightly flaring it. If you run them in short, you'll have to FL size before loading.

Oh, watch the neck thickness and make sure that they will chamber easy with the largest bullet that you will use.

A fine toothed plumbers bow type saw works well and isn't very expensive.

Frank

[adrians]

I use the "el cheapo" Har freight cut off deally for my first cut ( i glued a piece of wood to the clamp base as a rough guide) , then deburr , anneal and run through the 8x57 size die and then final trim in a CH trim tool.
Done,

[Larry Gibson]

I also converted a lot of '06 to 6.5x55, 7x57 and 8x57 "back in the day". I finely broke down and got the 8x57 form die. What a difference it makes! I initially form and cut of the '06 case for all those now plus the 7.7 jap and 7.65 Argie just by backing the form die out to the right length. I use a small fine toothed hack saw and it goes quick and easy. The "formed" cases then are FL sized in the cartridge FL die and finish trimed. Easy and ended a lot of hassle and problems with all the other methods I tried, including those mentioned here. The 8x57 form die was well worth the $s spent.

Larry Gibson

[Moonie]

I also use the harbor freight cut off saw to trim down my brass to 8x57, lube them up and run them through a full length size die twice then trim and load.

[Geezer in NH]

My 4 buck hardware store special hacksaw I bought 40 years ago works fine cutting of 30/06 brass in an 8x57 sizer/trim die. or any other trim die. three pushes done. I then trim after FL sizing

[GrizzLeeBear]

ZOMBIE THREAD ALERT! LOL

Good info from everyone though, especially that grizz guy!

[chboats]

I am with Larry Gibson. The trim die makes easy work of forming and cutting. I find that the LC brass has thinner walls where the new neck will be. Have not had a need to turn the necks.

Carl

[Kosh75287]

I'm still learning this particular bit of wizardry, but the neck thickness hasn't been an issue, when going from .308 to .323. I would THINK that the thicker neck might guard against splitting.

[Scharfschuetze]

A also use the RCBS form and trim die to make my 8X57 and 7.65X53 cases. I've only used Lake City Ought-Six brass (I have a lot of it) and I've never had to turn the necks using the LC brass. It goes fast and the good Lake City brass lasts a long time.

I imagine that the Redding die would work as well as the RCBS product.

[cosmoline one]

I​ use the redding die too, and as others said, I don't bother w/annealing and cases have lasted many loadings.FL size after, then usual case prep. One bit of advice: go slow when pushing case into die & you'll get less wrinkles in the shoulder

[kysunfish]

My RCBS Trim/Form die is the greatest. Pull it down then whack it off in one lick with hack saw. A VLD chamfer tool is helpful

[Safeshot]

I just reform the 30/06 cases in a std. 8mm Mauser resizing die with a std. 8mm expanding plug. (I use the absolute minimum case lube in the shoulder and neck areas and only a little more on the body near the case head. I trim to length with a drill press and a Lee Case Trimmer cutter with a 8mm Mauser trim stud in it. (I do not "saw" or cut off any of the neck with a tubing cutter.) Then chamfer (de-bur) case mouth and burnish with a pad of "0000" steel wool. It makes some brass shavings, but they vacuum up easily. This approach is very fast and accurate. I shoot older military 8mm Mauser rifles. All of my rifles have large enough chamber necks that do not require reaming or turning the case necks. I anneal case necks after trimming. Cases last a long time.

[Motor]

No wonder why it's getting harder and harder to find good LC brass for my Garand.

Motor