Its time to build my own smelting pot. I plan on making a large bottom pour pot. I'd like to see different valves. And I'd like suggestions on propane burners.
Its time to build my own smelting pot. I plan on making a large bottom pour pot. I'd like to see different valves. And I'd like suggestions on propane burners.
I copied the RCBS type when I did my 20 gal pot.
Lefty,
I'm interested in following your project. Please supply details and (if possible) photos of your design and build process.
Thanks.
David
Cats are fun and magical when you can't smell their poop! Fresh Step!
JPFO; NCOWS; NRA (Life); NYSRPA (Life); SAF, SASS
I'm looking for a shooter grade Smith & Wesson Victory model in .38 Special.
I'll try my best, sometimes it takes me a little while to complete a project.
Lefty,
You might want to review this thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=50147
Drop down to Reply # 9
Good Luck,
Mark
Any way you sell it,
No matter how you spell it,
When you start to smell it,
BO Stinks!
The easiest way to make a leak free valve is to take a steel rod and machine a radius on the end of it.
Cut a hole in your bottom plate and put a valve seat on it using a countersink. Mate the two up, making sure that the rod is at least the same diameter as the seat.
Weld or screw two guides for the the rod on the inside of the pot, one at the top of the pot and the other about two inches from the bottom. The radius on the rod will allow a small angular deviation and it will still seal without any leakage.
You can either lift the rod manually or affix another rod to it that uses the side of the pot for the leverage to move the rod up and down and with a little practice, you can determine how long to leave it open to fill your molds rather nicely.
This one will do about 300 pounds. I've been using it for several years now and it still works great...no leaks.
Hot Guns, NICE POT!
I made one out of a 5 gallon propane bottle. Cut off the bottom ring, and cut off the bottom at the weld (use a sawzall for the clean cut). Use the bottom for a lid, weld some tabs inside to locate it, and a handle. I cut out the threaded boss where the threads were, and ran a channel to the outside to allow complete draining (cut a 1.5" slot and fit a piece cut out of 1 1/2" square tube to it). A pointed rod (mine is 5/15 diameter) falling into a hole serves as a valve. after fitting the rod to giudes, and hole pound it in to make an exact fit. A 45 degree pipe elbow and a short nipple in the hole through the channel form a nice spout. Holds three hunderd lbs. You must fit pieces of strap to the curve of the new bottom to be legs too. I put four at 90 degrees.
I should mention that just opening the valve doesn't empty the cylinder, even though there is no pressure. If you just unscrew the fitting you'll get a nasty surprise when it flys loose and several quarts of liquid (at ambient pressure) comes squirting out. Perhaps drill a small hole and face it downward until drained before unscrewing fitting. PS, liquid residue is flamable.
Last edited by leftiye; 01-15-2012 at 07:07 AM.
We need somebody/something to keep the government (cops and bureaucrats too) HONEST (by non government oversight).
Every "freedom" (latitude) given to government is a loophole in the rule of law. Every loophole in the rule of law is another hole in our freedom. When they even obey the law that is. Too often government seems to feel itself above the law.
We forgot to take out the trash in 2012, but 2016 was a charm! YESSS!
+1 on HotGuns design.
I used his design to build my smelter awhile back. Here is my post on the one I built.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...sXxMbwSkOtWCeA
Good luck, jmsj
What size spouts are suggested. I was thinking of tapping the bottom of my pot for 1/8" or 1/2" pipe thread so I could use pipe fittings for the spout. I could chamfer the pipe fitting that goes into the pot making it the valve seat.
Don't have a real good pic of the valve but it is just a rod with a point sitting in a hole.
Paul G.
Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.
The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
Thanks for the valve ideas guys. I think I got that part solved.
Now what about burners? My pot dimension will be 8" deep, 8" wide" and 16" long.
Get one of those cast iron burner equipped camping/ barbeque cook stoves. Check the btu and don't buy one with less that 35000 btu per burner. Those turkey deep fat fryer burners are good too.
I've got one of the two burner camp stoves. One burner does the trick just fine. Be dern shore that you reinforce the support system for the pot on the stove and the legs of the pot, and the table you intend to use is muy strong enough. 300 lbs of hot lead ain't funny if it gets loose.
We need somebody/something to keep the government (cops and bureaucrats too) HONEST (by non government oversight).
Every "freedom" (latitude) given to government is a loophole in the rule of law. Every loophole in the rule of law is another hole in our freedom. When they even obey the law that is. Too often government seems to feel itself above the law.
We forgot to take out the trash in 2012, but 2016 was a charm! YESSS!
While not a smelter, I built a 60lb bottom pour out of steel pipe, used stainless for the needle and a 3500w oven element wrapped around the pipe. It's controled by a PID controler with a solidstate relay but a simple thermostat would work, that's just what I had.
Yeah, any one that can expound on the diameter of the spout as to not have a tidal wave when opening the valve would be great!
I wanna build on too,
I bought a turkey fryer at HomeDepot last week on sale for 39 bucks. 45000 BTU, melted my dutch oven full of lead in about 8 minutes
My pot will be rectangular. Is it a good idea to have the valve end of the pot slightly lower so the lead naturally flows to the valve?
Dimensions should be 8x8x16
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |