plain or bevelled base?????

[imsoooted]

what are the merits of plain based and bevelled based boolits? someone mentioned that bevel base boolits make a mess when sizing/lubing....why ? rookie questions, but getting in on a GB and want to make an informed decision.....thx all

[WildmanJack]

Imsooted,
I use bevel based boolets in my Star Sizer/Luber and don't have any problems with them, They are also very accurate in my .45.. Don't know what caliber you're going to lube but that's my 2cents...
Good luck in your venture.....
Jack

[Ben]

I'm no fan of a bevel based bullet. Lube can and will get under a bevel based bullet .
I've always believed a plain based bullet will create a better gas seal.

I avoid bevel based bullets.

[imsoooted]

this info is for the mihec 200 g swc #68 clone GB....i am pan lubing now, but don't want to rule out lubesizer later.....thx again

[caillouetr9981]

Ideally, neither (usually) gives better accuracy than a gaschecked (GC) bullet.

When shooting either plainbased or bevelbased bullets, you are really limiting your velocities - unless you really enjoy cleaning lead out of barrel, or use linotype bullets.

Still, I have shot a TON of both plainbased and bevelbased bullets, mostly in .38 Special, or reduced .357 (bevelbased 148 gr. wad cutters are especially accurate, if you keep the speed down). Have not had problems sizing/lubricating either.

Most important thing here is whether the bullets are for pistol (at modest velocities) or rifle. If it is rifle, than there is NO choice - use a GC bullet.

Good Luck...

Reggie

[putteral]

I have the current Mihec 4 cavity BB mold 200 SWC and lubing with carnunba red in my Lyman 4500 and am not having any problems with lubing. It is all about adjusting the depth of seating so you do not get lube all over the place.

[cbrick]

what are the merits of plain based and bevelled based boolits? someone mentioned that bevel base boolits make a mess when sizing/lubing....why ? rookie questions, but getting in on a GB and want to make an informed decision.....thx all

this info is for the mihec 200 g swc #68 clone GB....i am pan lubing now, but don't want to rule out lubesizer later.....thx again

With most lubrisizers AND pan lubing there isn't any way to keep the lube from filling the bevel base. The exception is the Star lubrisizer. With the LEE push through dies you will still need to either pan lube or tumble lube and still have lube in the bevel base.

Most of the #68 I've fired in my 1911 have been bevel base but only becaue I have a 6 cavity SAECO #68 BB. I've never noticed much of a difference in accuracy between BB & PB in the 45 ACP but I never try to push the envelope with it. I also use the Star to size and lubricate, the Star only puts the lube where you want it, in the lube groove - NOT on the nose or in the BB.

Since you are pan lubing now and your future plans of a lubrisizer are unclear I suggest you go with the plain base bullet.

Rick

[Cherokee]

Plain base avoids the lube on the bevel, although it is possible to lube in Lyman without getting lube on the bevel. I mostly use a Star so no problem. Some say a BB is less accurate than PB, I have never been able to tell, but BB are easier to seat in the case. Personally, I've shot planty of boolits with lube on the bevel and had no problem.

[williamwaco]

Wildman Jack +1
Cbrik +1

I use both. I like both, I find both equally accurate, I tumble lube the bevel bases so lube is not a problem.

I cannot back this up with referrences but I believe it is the straight poop.

When I was learning to cast, ( 1950s) I was advised by all sources that the base of the bullet( any bullet) MUST, MUST, MUST be perfectly square and SHARP and flat. If there was any rounding of the base it was a reject. If the sprue cut was not perfectly centered and flat, it was a reject.

Well. After rejecting 950 of my first 1000 bullets (from a single cavity Lyman mold), I decided I couldn't live up to those standards and began accepting bullets that I had been advised to reject. Surprise! They shot better than I could hold.

I did concentrate on those perfectly square bases and found them very hard to cast. I still do 50 years later. I define a perfectly square base as a base that will not reflect light off the corner.

Some genius came along and said "Match grade swaged jacketed bench rest rifle bullets have rounded bases. Some even have boat tails. This advice just can't be true. Lets round off that base and get rid of the problem. Instead of calling it a mold to cast an imperfect bullet, we can call it a mold to cast a bullet that is much easier to seat. Since it will cast so much easier and faster, we will sell lots more molds."

Regardless of the truth or fiction of my suspicion, these bullets are very easy to cast perfect copies and are every bit as accurate as the bullets with flat, perfect, square, bases. If you don't like the lube on the base, Tumble'em.

Or cast the flat base. That is the most wonderful thing about this avocation, everyone is his own boss and can make'em anyway he wants. You are the President and CEO of your own ammo factory.


I love this hobby.

[wv109323]

I shoot Bullseye pistol and below is the old wifes tales of BB vs. Plain Base in the .45 ACP.
Both Plain Base and BB need a flat base without voids caused by cutting the sprue to shoot well. Of coarse the mold must be completely filled to avoid any voids in the bullet.
A lot of the accuracy of the bullet is determined when the bullet exits the barrel at the crown. If the flat base or the BB bullet allows the gas to escape unevenly at the crown then the bullet is "upset". By this I mean if the base is not perfectly flat then the gas will escape unevenly. The area where the base is rounded ( on a supposed flat base bullet ) will allow the gas to escape first, then the gas will escape where the base is perfectly flat a microsecond later. If both the flat base and the BB are perfectly formed in the mold then they should be equal in accuracy. This is true because both bullet forms are designed to allow the gas to escape evenly.
A lot of accuracy can be lost in seating a flat based bullet. If the flat based bullet is not started straight in the case, then the base is deformed causing a loss of accuracy. Bullseye shooters like to seat their SWC bullets with a special seater that contacts only the shoulder of the bullet thus pushing the bullet straight into the case without deformation to the the base of the bullet. Many seaters will not push the bullet straight and allow a noticeable bulge in the brass case mouth.
If either bullet is properly cast and loaded then the accuracy is well beyond what the average shooter can hold at fifty yards. A lot of shooters separate their bullets by visable inspection. The best is used for slow fire at fifty yards and the others used for the 25 yard line.