RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionRepackboxInline Fabrication
WidenersSnyders JerkyLoad DataTitan Reloading
Reloading Everything MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: What type milling bit

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    134

    What type milling bit

    I want to take the head off of 9mm cases right down to the bottom of the primer pocket. I am thinking of using an end mill in a drill press. Could someone point be in the right direction. Or pick the correct mill for me off the fastenal website.

    Cheers,
    Greg

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    arjacobson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Mason City Iowa
    Posts
    768
    What would/should work good is one of those cheap lee case length cutters. I have actually chucked one in my lathe to spot face parts from time to time.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    3,649
    The hard jaws of the drill chuck may not properly grab the hard end mill.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master jmsj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    1,166
    I would be very careful about using endmills in a drill press.
    If the tail of drill chuck adapter is of the tang style Morse Taper and not the threaded milling machine type it can come loose while running (don't ask me how I know). When it comes loose while running lots of things can get torn up, parts cutters and skin.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Norteast Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    270
    Go for it.

    Some dumb ideas are better learned about, first hand rather than in print.

    If you can type with the stitches in your hand, tell us how it went, eh.

    Cheers
    Trev

  6. #6
    Longwood
    Guest
    I think that rather than trying to turn the tool, I would figure out a way to turn the brass and cut it with a die grinder with a cutoff wheel.
    Could you please tell us why you are doing this to the brass?

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy Casting Timmy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    422
    I woudl suggest seeing if you could get a counter bore that's big enough and then make a pilot for it that can fit in the flash hole of the brass. It will keep your drill press from jumping around on the bottom of the brass and they usually don't do to well with end mills at times. Or best yet use a drill bit if you can handle the angle on the end of the brass.

    You might find with the counterbore method that you need to drill out the primer pocket slightly larger to do a larger pilot.

    Turning down a custom pilot isn't to bad with a drill and a dremel tool. Spin the pilot in a drill or your drill press and then using the dremel spining quickly to work the diamter down.

    Hope some of this helps
    Tim

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    140 acre farm, west central WI
    Posts
    237
    An end mill is not a tool to be used in a drill press. Also the positive rake of the end mill will cause it to gouge into brass. Cutting tools for use in brass should be zero or negative rake or they will agressively dig in. Trevj had it right about bad ideas and stitches. You might be thankful if it spins in the drill chuck jaws as that might prevent a greater disaster......

  9. #9

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Pavogrande's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dacula Ga formerly san josie calif
    Posts
    615
    I would go with casting timmy -- a piloted spot facer should do the job --

    However, if your drill press is the usual chinese type with a taper shank chuck, vibration can spit the chuck and tool across the room --

    my ha-penny

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    134
    Quote Originally Posted by Longwood View Post
    I think that rather than trying to turn the tool, I would figure out a way to turn the brass and cut it with a die grinder with a cutoff wheel.
    Could you please tell us why you are doing this to the brass?
    It a lot easier to size down when I take the ends partly off. Even when I anneal it, it is almost impossible.

  12. #12
    Longwood
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by gvanzeggelaar View Post
    It a lot easier to size down when I take the ends partly off. Even when I anneal it, it is almost impossible.
    Thanks for the answer.
    I was totally confused (Duh!) and was thinking you were going down a different road and using the base for something.

  13. #13
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    95
    Personally I found that using a Vertical Mount Belt Grinder/Sander to be the best option. Mine has a 4" wide belt. I can stand there and take the brass down to exactly where I want it. It may seem to take a long time..but I can do 100 in a half hour..but you have total control over things like beveling the edges and you always have a smooth finish.

  14. #14
    Longwood
    Guest
    There you go,,, stick it on a short piece of dowel and go for it. Everyone needs a Harbor Freight belt sander, if nothing more than too make knives with.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bloomfield, Nebraska
    Posts
    6,073
    A center cutting end mill will do the job but NOT in a drill press. Unless you have one of the old Delta's or such with a through bolt quill. A morse taper quill WILL work loos with very little chatter and breaking the end mill will be the least of your worries. What willl work is a metal cutting bladein a band saw and a simple wooden jig to hold the case.

  16. #16
    Longwood
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by KCSO View Post
    A center cutting end mill will do the job but NOT in a drill press. Unless you have one of the old Delta's or such with a through bolt quill. A morse taper quill WILL work loos with very little chatter and breaking the end mill will be the least of your worries. What willl work is a metal cutting bladein a band saw and a simple wooden jig to hold the case.
    I would try the chuck from a drill press to hold the brass, then dress to perfect on the belt sander.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check