Modify Lee Mold

[Ben]

I realize for the people who have been forum members here for a long time that this information isn't going to be very interesting to you.

However, we are adding new members at a rapid rate now. Many will be on a budget and trying to cast good bullets with economical Lee double cav. and single cav. molds.

I had a 41 Mag. single cav. mold that was over 25 yrs. old. The sprue plate screw would not stay tight ( I know that isn't new is it ? ). I decided to do my standard modification to this particular mold and get my dig. camera out and shoot a few photos that might make it educational for a " newcomer " that has never seen the process before.

As many of you are aware, Lee often ships molds that have the sprue plate screw so tight that within just a few opening and closing of the blocks, you've got damaged, galled blocks.

The sprue plate is far too tight on many of the Lee molds and there was no lubrication ( need to use Bullplate ).
All this combines to render the molds un serviceable in a fairly short period of time.

By removing the screw plate hold down screw and removing the sprue plate and drilling and tapping a 10-24 threaded hole, this problem can be fixed permanently. This allows you to put any amount of sprue plate tension on the plate that you need and then lock the screw down just as you would a Lyman , RCBS, or SAECO mold.

Here are photos showing how I do this modification. I hope this is helpful to
many of you young casters :





It is very possible that there are other sizes of taps and drill bits to do this job with.
This size works well for me however :







Here is a poor quality movie ( took the movie with my cell phone ) that will let you see the end result of this work.

Thanks,

Ben

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WAnEcgdFJk

[Hamish]

Much apreciated, Ben!

[thegreatdane]

Very nice.

[Fishman]

I have read several descriptions but no pics ever. Thanks a bunch!

[RobS]

I use 8/32 NC set screws with a bit of brass stock placed in the hole first as to not mess up the threads on the sprue plate bolt. I'll add that cutting threads does require something to cut with such as aluminum thread cutting fluid and I've used dish soap, beeswax, and now probably the best that I have around here as a boolit caster Bullplate sprue lube. Adding to the picture show is some Lee six cavity work on the sprue plate pivot screw and the sprue plate hold down bolt.

[DragoonDrake]

Ben bc of your post I went and picked up a 10-24 tap and some set screws. Thank you.

[excess650]

Nice, helpful post Ben!

I've used small bits of lead like #7-1/2 shot between the lock screw and sprue cutter hinge screw/bolt so as to not harm the threads.

[Ben]

DragoonDrake

It will be $ and time well spent. It is a big step forward with a Lee 1 cav. or 2 cav. mold.

Ben

[JIMinPHX]

Thank you for remembering the newbies Ben. I've gotten so that I forget that they are here sometimes.

I've used #8-32, 10-32, & 10-24 set screws for that purpose. They all seem to work. I've taken to using the #8 lately because it leaves me enough meat to move up to a bigger one later if I run into trouble. Also, I drop a piece of lead bird shot under the set screw before I install it. That keeps the threads of the sprue pivot screw from getting munched up.

Another board member recently posted instructions for getting that sprue pivot screw out without wrecking it. That can be a trick sometimes.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=109241

[songdog53]

Nice Ben

[turbo1889]

I just quoted the OP of this thread in the Lee-Menting sticky thread so the principle info is now part of that sticky for future reference.

[Ben]

turbo1889 :

Thanks for your efforts and help. I hope this post will be beneficial to many of our young bullet casters that are just getting started.

Ben

[casterofboolits]

Once I remove the screw, I also stone the bottom of the sprue plate flat with a hard Arkanas stone. Also stone the edges of the sprue plate to remove any burrs. In addition, I chamfer the top of the screw hole as the self tapping screw pulls up a ring of material which prevents the plate from lying flat.

[oscarflytyer]

small tip when using set screws that I use on all my die lock rings, etc.

Put a single piece of lead shot under the set screw. It will mash down and hold things very secure, while also saving the threads of the screw you are trying to set.

[Ben]

casterofboolits & oscarflytyer , JIMinPHX :

Those are great suggestions that you have offered .

I wanted this article to offer a new caster some options when they purchased an inexpensive off the shelf Lee bullet mold that would make their casting sessions run smoother. You contributions have helped greatly.

Thanks,

Ben

[Space Cadet]

Hi guys,

I am a 65 year old newbie. This basic information is what guys like me need.

Thanks for not fogetting us Ben.

[Ben]

Space Cadet :

There are many on this forum that do a much better job than I'm doing of helping other casters. Thanks for those nice remarks however.

Ben

[Bzcraig]

Forgive my ignorance but does the set screw lock on the sprue plate screw via friction to keep the screw from backing out?

[Wal']

Forgive my ignorance but does the set screw lock on the sprue plate screw via friction to keep the screw from backing out?

Yes.....

[Spector]

Doesn't a piece of lead shot under the set screw just melt when the mold comes up to temp? It will expand some when melted, but unless the lead shot is expanded by the pressure exerted by the tip of the set screw into all voids in the tapped hole under the set screw it seems to me that it would no longer exert much pressure on the sprue plate screw. Or is an additional tightening necessary after the mold is up to temp to competely expand the lead shot?

In practice this may work fine, but I'm just wondering. A small piece of brass under the set screw, or a brass set screw would seem a better choice to me...........Mike