I bought it directly from Graeme Forbes (Forbes Wholesale) then had it shipped to my local dealer. With the $AU now over parity, they are really much cheaper than when I bought mine.
I bought it directly from Graeme Forbes (Forbes Wholesale) then had it shipped to my local dealer. With the $AU now over parity, they are really much cheaper than when I bought mine.
Hold Still Varmint; while I plugs Yer!
This thread is a bit dated but I thought I'd add my 2 cents worth anyway. Might help someone? I bought a Pedersoli 1885 highwall (45-70) from Buffalo arms. It was imported by Taylor's. Out of the box; fit was a 5 on a scale on 1 to 10. Finish was thick and the checkering was full of it. Looked like a bad True-oil job. I had numerous misfires the first time I took it top the range. I spoke to Lee Shaver several times and eventually sent the action to him to re-work and supply new springs. Still misfires continued. A second hammer fall would detonate the cartridge but the process provided no confidence in the rifle. After talking at length to Lee we decided that pre-loading the hammer spring by putting something under the static end, might do the job. That did help considerably and I shot several matches with it but the confidence factor was always looming so I sold it.
To make a long story short; It was not up with pedersoli's best work. i have one of their Sharps rifles and have won several matches with it. Fit and finish are excellent as is accuracy.
The 1885's I'd stay away from. Better as fence posts than rifles.
I got hooked up with Dick Trenk when I was looking for the proper vernier sight. He talked so fast, I should have taken notes.
Great guy, passed away about 2-3 yrs ago.
Leadmelter
MI
Have you measured firing pin protrusion through the face of the breech block? I like around .050" protrusion to reliably strike primers. Some guns will work with as little as .040", but not all. I'd also be checking to ensure the firing pin travels freely in the block. Any resistance will hinder a good strike.
Oops! Old post revived, so likely this info wont apply to the OP's gun today.
I think you have a typo. you wrote powder and maybe meant to type primer?
You can substitute one primer for another loading BP and not have to start over for pressure reasons like you would with smokeless powder. Often a change in primers from a hot primer to a mild primer like pistol primers can help the accuracy of an already good BP load. I like Rem 2-1/2, Fed LP regular and match. In rifle primers, try CCI-200 and if you have a thick wallet, CCI-BR-II.
Chill Wills
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |