My homemade black powder

[Vettepilot]

On the HF mini mill:

Bad luck. After a good bit of work fitting it, my new/used motor turned out to be NFG. The motor shop that sold it to me gave it a test spin when I bought it, as did I when I got home. But, it's no good, as I found out once I had already gone to the none too easy task of installing it.

There are several failure modes of electric motors; one being that it will run quietly, no load, just fine. But when you load it, it is down on power and quickly seriously overheats. (Damaged windings.) That's the deal with this one. Bummer!

Being a determined soul, (read that STUBBORN), I went back to researching and found a good motor--> new this time!! It is the same basic form factor as the original, so won't be too tough to fit. But it is three times stronger than the original at 1.5 amps. It is obviously a much better motor and I'm happy with it, and the cost was the same as a weak, stock replacement motor. This is going to work nicely.

https://www.amazon.com/Broan-9908059.../dp/B002NC8O5G

Vettepilot

[Vettepilot]

Thanks for that nice report on the grinder! Sounds promising!

Vettepilot

[hithard]

What would you all say your ratio is after grinding pucks.

2f. %
3f. %
Fines to re-press

Thanks.

[almar]

What would you all say your ratio is after grinding pucks.

2f. %
3f. %
Fines to re-press

Thanks.

I personally never carefully measured...maybe others can chime in.

[Nobade]

What would you all say your ratio is after grinding pucks.

2f. %
3f. %
Fines to re-press

Thanks.

Probably 40% 2f, 50%3f, 10% re-press or priming powder.

[maillemaker]

With the new grain mill, I had to quit before fully processing all the first-crush, but it's looking like about 1/3rd 2F, 1/3rd 3F, and 1/3rd fines. This is about what I got using the coffee grinder also.

[mmb617]

I recently got one of those grain mills myself and love it!

Well, it's pretty much fantastic. You will want to press pucks no more than about 3/16" thick though, probably closer to 1/8". This way the pucks can bite between the rollers at their widest setting.

I was pressing my pucks at 30 grams each but cut back to 22-23 grams each to make them a bit thinner which works better. I can press 5 pucks at a time at that size so it works well as 5 pucks fit in each tray of my dehydrator. I have the grain mill rollers set halfway between 0.100 and 0.050 which gives me the right size to go in my grinder as the next step. Rather than resetting the rollers for a second, finer grind, I use the ceramic grinder I already had to get the grains small enough to be ready for screening.

Magically it devours pucks as fast as you can crank the handle.

One full turn of the handle is usually enough to grind one puck.

I did find some very fine aluminum shavings in my powder after the first run. It might be a good idea to completely disassemble the grinder prior to use and clean out any shavings. The shavings did not respond to a magnet so I am pretty sure they are aluminum but getting metal shavings in your powder is scary.

I found that too. It wasn't much and they do seem to be aluminum. I'm assuming that problem will disappear after the mill breaks in.

The only "drawback" about this thing is it works so fast you are tempted to do it all in one go. I was careful to only do a few pucks at a time and then transport the grindings far away from the grinder. But you could sit there and grind out 3 pounds of pucks in minutes. And if something went wrong with 3 pounds of ground up powder sitting there...

I don't have that problem since the grinder I use for the second step only holds 2 pucks at a time so that's all I do with the mill before emptying the catch bowl. I run two pucks through the mill, then the grinder, then the screen stack. It only takes a couple minutes to do all that. I did 25 pucks yesterday in less than an hour.

This absolutely takes the chore work out of puck busting. I wish the thing was made of brass; I'd feel better.

It absolutely takes the tedium out of puck busting, which was the only part of the process I considered a chore. I feel safe with the stainless rollers although I don't get my face over the hopper while breaking them. I think brass being softer would wear too fast. I kind of wonder if the SS rollers will eventually have the knurling worn away as I imagine the grain it was designed to mill is probably softer than the powder we're milling. Time will tell.

On the HF mini mill:

Being a determined soul, (read that STUBBORN), I went back to researching and found a good motor--> new this time!! It is the same basic form factor as the original, so won't be too tough to fit. But it is three times stronger than the original at 1.5 amps. It is obviously a much better motor and I'm happy with it, and the cost was the same as a weak, stock replacement motor. This is going to work nicely.

https://www.amazon.com/Broan-9908059.../dp/B002NC8O5G

Vettepilot

I'll be interested to hear how that works out for you. I've been working on the motor deal from a different angle and I'm just entering the testing phase. I'm using a DC motor with a speed controller. This is the box I cobbled together that holds the speed controller and power supply, and the motor on a test run. The rubber bands are on the drum because for some reason I'm having trouble maintaining traction between the drum and drive roller. I'm going to try what someone else mentioned and find a piece of rubber tubing for over the drive roller in hopes that will give me more traction. It's all still a work in progress.

What would you all say your ratio is after grinding pucks.

2f. %
3f. %
Fines to re-press

Thanks.

I haven't taken any measurements but just by looking I'd guess on the first screening I'm getting close to 50% 3f which is what I'm mainly after. I get a fair amount of fines which I'm trying to cut down even though they can be repressed. I'd say maybe 20% is fines. Another 15% or so is 4f which is more than I need, but again any excess can be repressed and I've already tried using 4f as the charge in my flintlocks without problems although some people seem to think that's somehow unsafe. The last 15% then would be bigger than 3f, and can be reground although a lot of it is probably at 2f size. I don't have a screen for 2f yet.

[maillemaker]

I don't have that problem since the grinder I use for the second step only holds 2 pucks at a time so that's all I do with the mill before emptying the catch bowl.

I recommend ditching the glass bowl. If it goes off you have a glass bomb.

Steve

[Vettepilot]

I could be wrong guys, but I don't think BP will explode unless it's contained. Otherwise, it just flashes, or burns really fast. Think about it; when we light off a table spoon's worth for testing (or fun), it just burns right? I watched a YouTube video where some guy made up something like 17 lbs. of black powder, then lit it all off at once. It just burned, and didn't even tear up the grass underneath.

So, in most operations, I think a flash fire is the main concern, but I wouldn't use glass containers either.

Vettepilot

[HamGunner]

What would you all say your ratio is after grinding pucks.
2f. %
3f. %
Fines to re-press
Thanks.

On the first run before repressing, I likely have about 1/3 of each of the three sizes.

With a brass pipe, I bust up my pucks small enough to enter a ceramic burr coffee grinder. I initially grind everything with a coarser setting that leaves a lot of FFG size or larger and screen them out with a #20 screen and collect what I use for my .36 Cal. and .32 Cal. that will not pass a #40 screen, which are near FFFG size, and collect what passes the #40 screen as the fines.

I then regrind the coarse granules with a bit finer setting on the grinder. If I want to collect any FFG size, I screen the coarse batch with a #10 screen before the second grind. What I end up with that passes the #10 screen might be a bit coarse for FFG size, but should work well for the larger muzzle loaders. I do not keep any of that size for myself, but I have a hunting buddy that has a .50 cal., so I just save up a bit each time to add to the FFG can I have for him to use.

If I repress the fines and mill the FFFG for better uniformity I normally end up with about:
15% fines
75% FFFG mostly dust free
10% FFG mostly dust free

I do not actually need all that much as I have small caliber guns, but in the last year since I started making BP, I have accumulated probably 12 lbs. or so. It mostly is Black Willow, but I did make up two batches of Sassafras and one small batch of Carolina Buckthorn (Frangula Caroliniana). The Buckthorn was strong and had little ash, but ended up light. The Black Willow and Sassafras were about the same in ash, weight, and strength as per my velocity tests.

I ended up just blending all my powder together and screening out more dust and have not noticed any change in it's speed or volume as my first samples were small. The largest batch that I have made at one time was 3 lbs. of Black Willow, but I have decided that 2 lbs. is plenty in my 15 lb. mill as the last 2 lb. batch of Sassafras worked out great with only 6 hours mill time as I started off with drier fine ingredients.

I wish I needed more BP as I enjoy making it. If I needed more I would certainly purchase one of the grain mills like the one Almar has introduced as the busting up of the pucks and grinding is not all that enjoyable. Maybe I need to shoot more, get some larger calibers, or perhaps make myself a cannon.

Need to mention: I recently bought an old single cavity Ideal .370 and a full box of Hornady .375 ball from a member here on the Swap Forum. I was amazed at the uniformity of the old Ideal ball mold as it drops an almost perfectly round ball with no sprue. Just a slight flat spot left on the ball. Although a few grains lighter than the Hornady factory ball, it was certainly a whole lot more uniform. The Hornady ball measures all over the place.

I look forward for a nice warm day to go try out some more of my BP using my new Ideal round ball. I am thinking the accuracy will improve.

[Whiterabbit]

What would you all say your ratio is after grinding pucks.

2f. %
3f. %
Fines to re-press

Thanks.

90% 3F
10% 4F/fines mixed.

Why?

ANYTHING that doesn’t pass the 3F filter gets put back into the coffee grinder until I get my 3F out of it. The remains get mixed with the green powder of the next batch and pressed again.

[HamGunner]

What would you all say your ratio is after grinding pucks.

2f. %
3f. %
Fines to re-press

Thanks.

I think he was wanting to know the original ratio of the first grind.
Mine is about 33% each size.

[HWooldridge]

I think he was wanting to know the original ratio of the first grind.
Mine is about 33% each size.

Statistically, that would make sense. A little bit of everything.

[indian joe]

I could be wrong guys, but I don't think BP will explode unless it's contained. Otherwise, it just flashes, or burns really fast. Think about it; when we light off a table spoon's worth for testing (or fun), it just burns right? I watched a YouTube video where some guy made up something like 17 lbs. of black powder, then lit it all off at once. It just burned, and didn't even tear up the grass underneath.

So, in most operations, I think a flash fire is the main concern, but I wouldn't use glass containers either.

Vettepilot

kerect!

[Whiterabbit]

I think he was wanting to know the original ratio of the first grind.
Mine is about 33% each size.

In that case, for me, it depends HEAVILY on the burr gap adjustment. I can adjust it to give me 5% 2f and 95% hunks, or 90% dust and 10% 3F. All of us are somewhere in between of course.

[hithard]

I think he was wanting to know the original ratio of the first grind.
Mine is about 33% each size.

Thanks, I'm just thinking I'm getting to much fines and why? Grinder set to tight, pucks not pressed hard enough, more drying time with pucks ?

[Whiterabbit]

Last two help with me alot

[Vettepilot]

kerect!

Ha! Thanks my friend! Sometimes I think I'm talkin' to myself in here!

;~)

Vettepilot

[HamGunner]

Shot a bit today as the temperature was in the 50's. Still had to stand in the snow as we still have a bit left. Anyway, shot standing at 25 yards.

Finally got a load worked up for my 1851 Colt Navy clone (Pietta) that shoots to point of aim with the factory sights. Used my own 77 gr. cast ball, home made powder, home made lubed felt wad, home made caps, and got the speed fast enough to lower the impact to point of aim.

Load was 22 gr. of my BP, which is likely about all I want to use in this revolver, plus it fits perfectly. Powder, lubed wad, and then ball seated flush with the throat with only a small amount of compression needed. No grease added on top of the ball.

Not the tightest of grouping, but that was likely just me and my 70 year old eyes and the fact that I had already fired 48 shots before this group and the gun was filthy. But the impact to point of aim has me excited, especially with all my own fodder. I did not set up the Chrony in the snow, but likely the velocity was decent in order to drop the impact to the bull.

[DoubleBuck]

HamGunner;
Absolutely, congratulations! Your story is excellent, your satisfaction exceedingly disserved and with all components homemade; your pistol will shoot! That's pretty rang dang fantastic!