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Thread: Flintlock kits - suggestions

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Flintlock kits - suggestions

    Good evening,

    I've been looking into building a flintlock rifle from a kit. I've come accross a few sites offering kits, but I'd like to get the community's opinions first. Do you have any experience with any of these companies? Also, if you know of any I didn't list, I'd appreciate the tips.

    http://www.flintlocks.com/
    http://www.possibleshop.com/rifle-kit.html
    http://www.muzzleloaderbuilderssuppl...riflekits.html

    Thanks.
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  2. #2
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    You can't go wrong with Chambers. Best lock on the market, bar none, plus very good barrels and hardware.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Take a look at Stonewall Creek Outfitters kits. If you have questions, call and talk to Troy. He can fix you up a kit with whatever parts you would like. He's rebarreling my T/C Renegade flintlock. He's very knowledgable, helpful and a darn good guy.
    "Feel the heart of the hunter - feel the thrill that will cleanse the soul."

  4. #4
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    I agree on the Cnambers kits. I built one of his kits in 1993. Jim sells everything needed to complete a work of art if you are up to it. His kits are not the cheapest but have the best locks (Siler) on the market and mighty fine swamped barrels. Just my thoughts.

    GM

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    Boolit Master
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    The Kindigs always have a good supply of parts. Iif you can get to their shop, they are very knowledgable and will help you pick what you need.

    http://www.logcabinshop.com/index-2.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmsharps View Post
    I agree on the Cnambers kits. I built one of his kits in 1993. Jim sells everything needed to complete a work of art if you are up to it. His kits are not the cheapest but have the best locks (Siler) on the market and mighty fine swamped barrels. Just my thoughts.

    GM
    Jim did improve the Siler locks after he took them over from Bud. He understands lock geometry, and made a good lock much better. I also have two of his English, a Queen Anne and a Jaeger lock. I wouldn't buy any other type.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #7
    Boolit Master northmn's Avatar
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    There are several good sources of kits depending upon the style you want. Another good source for browsing is Track of the Wolf which has excellent photographs of various types of rifles. Chambers kits are excellent also. Just know that putting toghether one of these kits is a lot different than a Cabelas Hawken kit or a Great Plains Rifle kit, but if done properly will give a much more valuable gun. A good source for info on building kits of the Chambers quality is AmericanLongRifles.com.

    DP

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    Thanks for the tips, guys. I only have one more question. I'm ordering a Kentucky rifle in .50 cal. Now, when it comes to casting 50 cal round ball, I should pick up a .500 mold, correct?
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilcop22 View Post
    Thanks for the tips, guys. I only have one more question. I'm ordering a Kentucky rifle in .50 cal. Now, when it comes to casting 50 cal round ball, I should pick up a .500 mold, correct?
    You need either .490" or .495" depending on your barrel, and probably use .015-.020" patch material.

    If I had the patience to build a long rifle, it would be a Chambers kit.
    Most people would sooner die than think, in fact, they do so. -B. Russell

  10. #10
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    TOW parts sets have been the best value for me and they carry most of the top brand barrels and locks. I have always got wood at or better than rated.

  11. #11
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    I ordered a TOW basic kit in .50 cal with a 42", 7/8" barrel. Nothing fancy, but it comes with a Chambers lock and a few basic dress-ups. I like the utilitarian look in military weapons, so it should suit me well.
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilcop22 View Post
    I ordered a TOW basic kit in .50 cal with a 42", 7/8" barrel. Nothing fancy, but it comes with a Chambers lock and a few basic dress-ups. I like the utilitarian look in military weapons, so it should suit me well.
    Now, the fun begins. A good book (or three) will help you with your build. I like the one by William Buchelle but there are a lot of newer ones available. Go slow and be patient. Your efforts will be rewarded.

    And when you get to the point when you are working up a load, the fun really starts!
    Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.

    I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.

    Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrawHat View Post
    Now, the fun begins. A good book (or three) will help you with your build. I like the one by William Buchelle but there are a lot of newer ones available. Go slow and be patient. Your efforts will be rewarded.

    And when you get to the point when you are working up a load, the fun really starts!
    I'm pretty excited. I've built guns before, but never something like this. I'm looking into books while I wait for it to arrive and different loads/paper methods.
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  14. #14
    Boolit Master northmn's Avatar
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    I will repeat about the AmericanLongrifles.com website. The books give you a basic guide but the experience in gun building on that site goes far beyond anything found in one book. Also they can assist in the unlikely event you screw up while building the kit or if you need to find a fix for a minor flaw in the kits. There si also guidelines for making the special tools that make life easier. Thanks to them I now have a few scrapers made out of hacksaw blades that help on inletting and a few chisels made out of old chain saw files. There is also a archive showing pictures of originals. The recomendations you recieved on this site for purchase is the same they would give and I enjoy this site for shooting ML's and the interaction also. The ALR site has one special thread on building.

    DP

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    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    I believe "The Gunsmith of Grenville County" may be back in print. Good instruction manual.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy iron brigade's Avatar
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    TVM makes a nice kit, and a lot of the work is done on it as well. for around 600 give or take.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilcop22 View Post
    I ordered a TOW basic kit in .50 cal with a 42", 7/8" barrel. Nothing fancy, but it comes with a Chambers lock and a few basic dress-ups. I like the utilitarian look in military weapons, so it should suit me well.
    I am excited for you! I built my first kit just over a year ago and I am still enjoying the finished product!

    I too ordered my kit from TOW and I was very satisfied with the final result. TOW sells good parts, the only drawback to their business model is you sometimes end up with parts on back order. Slightly irritating when you order a part marked "In Stock" on their website and then find out it's been back ordered. From now on I will only order over the phone after verifying that the part is in stock.

    Here is a link to an album with build along pictures of my kit:

    http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...ncaster%20Kit/

    Several of the regulars here were enormously helpful to me during the project.
    Good Luck and have fun!
    "The worst wheel of the cart makes the most noise." - Benjamin Franklin

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  18. #18
    Boolit Mold Smokin_Gun's Avatar
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    One more Harpers Ferry Zoli owner here ... about to try it out tomorrow along with my 1873 Springfield Trapdoor .45/70 and a Hawkens Frontier .50 with a 24" bbl...

    StrawHat it's too bad we don't live closer and could have a dang near twin rifle shoot...
    Do you use 7/8" Flints? that's one thing I gotta get yet is a couple dozen flints ... I have plenty of .500gr .58 cal Minies and about a 100 rb's so I 'll try 3 of my loads then 3 of yours and see what happens. Lookin' forward to shootin' as it's been awhile and finally able to shoulder one again.
    Catch ya later...
    SG
    Last edited by Smokin_Gun; 01-24-2011 at 02:24 AM. Reason: typo
    "I Smoke Black Powder" & "Favor 1858 Remingtons"

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold Smokin_Gun's Avatar
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    .50 cal Molds

    Quote Originally Posted by ilcop22 View Post
    Thanks for the tips, guys. I only have one more question. I'm ordering a Kentucky rifle in .50 cal. Now, when it comes to casting 50 cal round ball, I should pick up a .500 mold, correct?
    I've used a Lee aluminum .490 for T/C Hawkens, a Miroku Tennessee PoorBoy, and a CVA Hawken with strips of Pillow tickin'(about .018") and Mooses Milk for lube...dang near 30 years now I guess...just molded a couple hundred the other day with that same $20 mold ... get a two cavity... half the work twice the fun...
    "I Smoke Black Powder" & "Favor 1858 Remingtons"

  20. #20
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    I order the metal from Track and wood from Pecatonica Arms. Chambers has some VERY good kits. Built a couple of kits from Golden Age Arms but they closed up.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check