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Hi,
I went diving for some 22lr to make jackets. I know how to identify Lapua Center-X. But these in the attached I don't know. Are they any good?
1. R in a shield
2. Two different Es. I thought the one on the right was Ely, the one on the left looks like a bigger E. Ely?
3. F??
4. A weird shaped "T"
5. Some sort of Winchester "Super"?
Thanks
Attachment 287831
makes me no difference, if they make it thru the derim die whithout a bad spot they become jackets.
I toss the “R” and “T” head stamps. Both of them stick to the punch after going through the de-rim die I have.
I've been happy with remington, works best with my setup
Decades ago, GONRA saved 500 Lapua fired Cu long rifle fired MT's.
These make beautiful Cu jackets as run thru my trusty
CH Swag-O-Matic with home made derimming dies.
(Use STP Oil Treatment for drawing lube.)
GONRA weighed in. A worthwhile post!!!! Thank you!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by GONRA
I periodically pick 22LR; 17HMR; and 22Mag off the ground at the ranges - then take them back home and throw in a large box. During winter I will clean un ultra sound with Dawn Dish Detergent and Lemishine then air dry. Sort by headstamp and put into plastic nut boxes separated by headstamp. As I need additional jackets; I will derim 1,000 to 2,000 of a single headstamp for use in making swaged bullets. I do not go looking for the "Holy Grail" of 22LR brass to make jackets from; rather focus on consistency by head stamp sorting, throwing any culls out after deriving, then I weight sort jacket in 0.2 grain lots (i.e. 9.0 to 9.1, 9.2 to 9.3, 9.4 to 9.5, 9.6 to 9.8, and 9.9 to 10.0 - anything below 9.0 grains gets tossed into scrap bin). I also use cores swaged to specific weights to allow most of my final swaged bullets to be 60 grains (+ or - 0.1 grain).
I have found that Remmington are a bit softer...But the most noticeable is a brand from POBEDA, Gorazde, Yugoslavia (now Bosnia-Herzogovina). I found them at my range and used them to reload 22lr. They got stuck in my dies and I found that the brass is thicker on these. I haven't tried any to use as jackets but the outside case is obviously the same dimension. So they should work. I just figured they would be tougher jackets because of the thickness of the brass. I see that they are marketed now as MAXXtech brand in the US. They may have since begun to use thinner brass but the one I have have a "V" within a triangle for a headstamp.
I only made a few jacketed 22 cal bullets just to test some home made dies BUT. It would seem to me that annealing the cases would be of value if I were going to do it on a regular basis. Once you anneal them they pretty much all work the same as far as I can tell.
^^^What He Said^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by Rfeustel
I haven't done any extensive research on which .22 hulls end up making the best bullets but I do have an observation. I've noticed that there is a big difference in the firing strikes made by different rifles or pistols. Some have the rim caved-in like a square chisel with a sledge hit them. Others have a tiny round firing pin dent just inside the rim. Now all brands & rim dents get ironed out in the process but the small round firing pin dents are almost invisible & end up well inside the edge. As all bullet makers know, the heel is the critical part of getting bullets to accurately exit the muzzle every time. I find most small firing dents on Eley hulls. I'm guessing these are from a target pistol but just my guess.
I use them all. I have seen no difference
I make a lot of bullets. Using 22lr shell casings as a shell. There is a difference in thickness and length between them. From Remington comes a thin long shell. The manufacturer has the letter R on the bottom of the sleeve - the best in terms of stability of the weight of the sleeve and wall thickness. But its shell is shorter than Remington. The manufacturer with the letter F on the bottom of the sleeve - a great shell. Thick enough. Good length. But there is a very strong difference in weight. It is necessary to sort. The CCI manufacturer makes a cover almost as Remington. Thin and long.
Those with an "F" on the head are most likely Federal.
Hope this helps.
Fred
1. Rheinisch-Westfälische
2. Eley Brothers
3. Federal
4. Arms Corp
5. I cannot see the photo well enough.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...2lr-head-stamp Granted I have come a long way from my questions in my original post. Now I only use Eley or Wolf/Lapua. I get good enough groups I see no reason to change or toss in other handstamps. I probably have 10k in just Wolf/Lapua.
Elegy (E) make a great jacket.
The cases with a thicker wall (T) can stick to the punch when derimming but you can use a smaller diameter punch. D.Corbin supply’s a .199” punch with his kit. Make a punch .001” less and you will see the difference. There is quite a deal of difference between manufacturers in regards to 22LR cases. Match the punch to the case and there are no issues.
I have trimmed jackets down to .350”, so not much left of the case and the difference in weight between manufacturers can still be .2gn
With head stamp sorting, making the whole projectiles within .2 is easy. Within .1 if you are anal. If you do not sort jackets, projectile weights can vary up to .5gn
Bill