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I want to take the head off of 9mm cases right down to the bottom of the primer pocket. I am thinking of using an end mill in a drill press. Could someone point be in the right direction. Or pick the correct mill for me off the fastenal website.:D
Cheers,
Greg
What would/should work good is one of those cheap lee case length cutters. I have actually chucked one in my lathe to spot face parts from time to time.
The hard jaws of the drill chuck may not properly grab the hard end mill.
I would be very careful about using endmills in a drill press.
If the tail of drill chuck adapter is of the tang style Morse Taper and not the threaded milling machine type it can come loose while running (don't ask me how I know). When it comes loose while running lots of things can get torn up, parts cutters and skin.
Go for it.
Some dumb ideas are better learned about, first hand rather than in print.
If you can type with the stitches in your hand, tell us how it went, eh.
Cheers
Trev
I think that rather than trying to turn the tool, I would figure out a way to turn the brass and cut it with a die grinder with a cutoff wheel.
Could you please tell us why you are doing this to the brass?
I woudl suggest seeing if you could get a counter bore that's big enough and then make a pilot for it that can fit in the flash hole of the brass. It will keep your drill press from jumping around on the bottom of the brass and they usually don't do to well with end mills at times. Or best yet use a drill bit if you can handle the angle on the end of the brass.
You might find with the counterbore method that you need to drill out the primer pocket slightly larger to do a larger pilot.
Turning down a custom pilot isn't to bad with a drill and a dremel tool. Spin the pilot in a drill or your drill press and then using the dremel spining quickly to work the diamter down.
Hope some of this helps
Tim
An end mill is not a tool to be used in a drill press. Also the positive rake of the end mill will cause it to gouge into brass. Cutting tools for use in brass should be zero or negative rake or they will agressively dig in. Trevj had it right about bad ideas and stitches. You might be thankful if it spins in the drill chuck jaws as that might prevent a greater disaster......
I would go with casting timmy -- a piloted spot facer should do the job --
However, if your drill press is the usual chinese type with a taper shank chuck, vibration can spit the chuck and tool across the room --
my ha-penny
It a lot easier to size down when I take the ends partly off. Even when I anneal it, it is almost impossible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Longwood
Thanks for the answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by gvanzeggelaar
I was totally confused (Duh!) and was thinking you were going down a different road and using the base for something.
Personally I found that using a Vertical Mount Belt Grinder/Sander to be the best option. Mine has a 4" wide belt. I can stand there and take the brass down to exactly where I want it. It may seem to take a long time..but I can do 100 in a half hour..but you have total control over things like beveling the edges and you always have a smooth finish.
There you go,,, stick it on a short piece of dowel and go for it. Everyone needs a Harbor Freight belt sander, if nothing more than too make knives with.
A center cutting end mill will do the job but NOT in a drill press. Unless you have one of the old Delta's or such with a through bolt quill. A morse taper quill WILL work loos with very little chatter and breaking the end mill will be the least of your worries. What willl work is a metal cutting bladein a band saw and a simple wooden jig to hold the case.
I would try the chuck from a drill press to hold the brass, then dress to perfect on the belt sander.Quote:
Originally Posted by KCSO