Nice! What style of knurls does it cut, straight or angle, or diamonds large or small? To me, the mark of a real professional job can be a nice section of knurling placed where it will be useful or even serve as nice trim.
Regards,
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
The nice thing with tool is the rolls determine the size if the knurl. I have 3 different sets of angled rolls these will do a small medium and large diamond or the same in a spiral pattern depending on how they are installed, I have 2 sizes of straight rolls.
Im still thinking in how the pins will be held in. Im thinking a small pin or screw splitting the pin and hole. Or a small clip and screw. I dont care for set screws here as they can make the pin hard to remove if they slip. the pins will be 1/4 X 3/4" dowel pins, so another option would be a pull type pin and and button head screw to lock it against a small shoulder.
Of course! I didn’t even think about swapping out the rollers! (Insert face palm here!)
Nearly 20 years ago when I was taking basic shop classes at my local community college, I was able to add an AXA tool post to my antique Sheldon. Among the holders is one the carries a knurling tool, but since there is only one pair of rollers with it, all I can easily do is cut diagonal lines, which is better than nothing, I guess.
You continue to inspire, country gent. Keep it up!
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
My holders are bxa In both lathes, your knurling holder has a pin thru each knurling wheel there can be pushed out and the rolls swapped for what you want. You really want a arbor press to push the pins out, they are tight and a straight push is best.
Tool Looks great and the knurl looks nice. Knurling is an art. Anymore I prefer to use a cut knurler versus the swage type (scissor, bump). Years ago when I made the switch from manual lathes to the CNC side, knurling without the “feel” took a lot to get used to.
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Ive never used a cut type knurler but heard a lot of good on them.
Dia of part X Pi ( 3.1416) / tpi of knurling wheels When this comes out even ( no decimal or fraction left), Adjusting the part to this dia helps eliminate over runs of the pattern.
Ive also found that a near full depth first cut and a light finish pass with a light oil makes for a better formed knurl. With a pressure formed knurl just enough oil to lubricate and flush swarf out. A mister type lube with 20-30 psi of air pressure with way oil has given me some very nice knurls.
Yep, I use a knurl calculator (free online) to match the diameter of the work to the pitch of the wheel. Also helps to engage the work with only 1/2 the width of the wheel, if you can. Helps get more pressure and pop that knurl up. I agree about a light pass. I normally will run the knurler up on the part for a second, switch spindle direction for a second, switch it back again, then proceed across the work and then back to the start point (the spindle direction change is for cnc lathes, mainly). And the funny part is with a knurler you may do it differently in different types of material. Knurlers are fun, but can be frustrating, especially if the part is for a paying customer and has to look good lol.
Here is a pic of a cut knurl. Tool is made by Zeus. It takes all the guesswork and black magic out of knurling. Lol
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Very nice! Looks great!!
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Beautiful work gent , very very nice . The look of a nice knurl is a work of art.
Keep your powder dry and watch your six !!
We used to get stuck having to Knurl stuff like O1 steel. I would intentionally use a high feed rate, seemed if the part looked like this VVVVVVV say at least .015 per revolution feed the knurls grabbed better than if the turned finish was glassy smooth.
Both ends WHAT a player
At Campbells we had to do a lot of stainless and a coarse knurl for things 314 is a bear to knurl. All we had were the old bump knurlers was hard on the machines.
Bump knurler…. I just got the chills lol
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I made one change to this pinch knurler. instead of a 3/8 16 vee thread for adjustment I used a 3/8 12 acme thread. It pulls in smooth and easy no binding on the threads.
Yeah that acme thread will be much stronger. All the scissor knurlers we have are all standard 60 degrees V form threads. If I made one it would have acme threads too. At work a few month ago, we had a part come through that had a 3/8-10 Left Hand, Dual start stub acme internal thread through it. The guy that bid the job missed it lol. Lucky for me I had to make a gauge and the part lol. Fun stuff.
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