I used it in the past on PCd boolits. I sprayed them before running them through my lee sizers. Now I just run them though without any type of lube.
I used it in the past on PCd boolits. I sprayed them before running them through my lee sizers. Now I just run them though without any type of lube.
These are not cheap but mine has paid for itself. I keep it full of ATF and Acetone 50/50 and don't have to worry about the Acetone evaporating. It pressurizes with an air compressor. It holds pressure for years so you could charge it at a gas station if you don't have a compressor. 100 PSI Max but 30 is plenty to get a good spray.
ATF/Acetone has beaten All the commercial rust busters/penetrating oils in numerous tests.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
The effective rust penetrators of the past had now banned chemicals in them ,like carbon disulfide,and carbon tet,......the most effective ones for marine use have nitric acid in them ,so you wont be seeing them in the hardware store.
In 1977 Jack Belk was talking about WD40 one day. Said it would not gum up if used properly. If used on parts that had some other oil that was not completely removed. then it would gum, or if too much was left on parts for more than a year it would gum. It is a light machine oil similar to 3 in 1 with lots of Stoddard Solvent and a few other minor ingredients. Best use on guns it to clean out gunk and as a lubricant on 4ought steel wool to remove rust. Afte those uses it should be wiped off and a proper lubricant and/or preservative used. Don't leave WD40 to react with other products.
Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.
https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/w...sds-us-ghs.pdf
You see silicone waxes listed there? petroleum oil and solvent. Originally, fish oil and Stoddard Solvent. They keep tweaking the formula, but it's light oil and solvent.
Bill
I've got an air compressor, but I'm too cheap to buy one of those sprayers until I just absolutely can't live without it. Then I'll probably need two or three. Yep. Acetone makes a great vehicle for the oil, and will carry it deep into rust and gunk. Then it evaporates, and the ATF sucks in after it, and helps things to move out of the way, and lubricate the parts touching each other. Then you wiggle it a bit, and it comes apart. When I've used it, I make it a couple of ounces at a time, shake well, and usually brush or pour it on. Note: "wiggling it a bit" can be anything from a small wrench to an 8 pound hammer. YMMV!
Bill
Bill
Saw a collection of suggested uses for WD-40 one time. There was a guy who swore by it for that purpose. Having spent much more time around aromatic hydrocarbons that was really good for me tells me I do not want to do that. And I've had arthritis since I was 17. We used benzine to clean the leaking hydraulic fluid off the panels under the horizontal stabilizers of my F-111D fighter jets when I was only a few years older, and it didn't help at all! Bucket of benzine, and rag, no gloves. This was back when USAF compliance with OSHA regulations was voluntary, and not compelled.
Bill
Take a pail & fill with sand. Add used motor oil and mix a bit. Whenever you use your tools, afterwards stick in the pail and put away. Cleaned and oiled in 2 seconds!
Btw, wd-40 does have a good use: killing wasps and hornets. Spray nests or flying ones & insta-kill!
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Bill, you seriously underestimate Kroil. It’s what PB Blaster and Knock-er-Loose want to be. Boeshield is worth every penny. Most of my woodworking machinery is old cast iron and was purchased with anywhere from a little to completely covered in rust. After I removed the rust every bare cast iron surface was treated with Boeshield and paste waxed after the Boeshield dried. The machines remain rust free in the Gulf Coast humidity.
That works with WD-40. I made the mistake of lubing a single boolit with Kroil once and had a terrible time getting the boolit unstuck from my sizer. Kroil makes a lousy lubricant.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
And the Marines gave me a green scrubpad and a gallon of muriatic acid to scrub urinals with mineral buildup. I asked for gloves too. Gunny just said, ”You’re a Marine, just use your hands!”
I got rid of the mineral buildup and most of the skin off my hands !
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I used to use it to clean my motorcycle chains before lubing them. Now i just use lucas chain lube and my current chain has 20K miles on it and no stiff links. Before my chains were toast at 15K.
"If everyone is thinking the same thing it means someone is not thinking"
"A rat became the unit of currency"
I had Ford cars in the 70s......a big water splash ,and you had 10 seconds to get off the road before the motor cut out.......Out with the WD40,spray the leads and inside the cap,even in the rain,and youd be going again.
WD-40 will also soften (and ruin) the wood stock of a rifle. A squirt on the barrel, placed barrel up in the safe, the WD-40 runs down and softens the wood.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I traded that gun off for the “light” aluminum receiver 30” stalker version the first year they came out with it…91’ or 92’ I believe. I then traded it for the national wild Turkey federation gold light version I still have today.
About the only thing I use WD-40 now is cleaning white walls.
You're a Marine. You're not really supposed to have brains. Just be tougher than Hell. I'm Air Force. We were supposed to have brains. I won't swear that was always true, after all I was Air Force, myself. But prolonged exposure to benzine can damage your brain. And mine wasn't any too great when I enlisted. That was about 48 years ago.
David, I've just looked at the SDS sheets for both of them. They are different, but not by that much. One ingredient can make a big difference, so I'm not saying they're the same. Just that they have similar chemicals, and those chemicals do the same things in both cases. Both Kroil and WD-40 have aromatic hydrocarbons, and aliphatic hydrocarbons. Solvents and oils. Kroil has one more that may make a big difference, but I've not needed that difference in my work or home life. And I don't expect WD-40 to be the cure-all that some folks are looking for. My major argument is with the folks who say Kroil is best and WD-40 (or about anything else) is utter trash, and the ones who say WD-40 is best, and Kroil (or about anything else) is utter trash. Neither is always true.
You can use water as a lubricant. And for most stuff, it would be better than running the parts dry. Maybe not by much, but some. It is absolutely NOT a good lubricant. Put it in an engine, and you might as well have burned the money you used to buy that engine. It will not last long.
As I mentioned, I've never used Kroil. It might work fine as a water displacement treatment, and it might not. It's not advertised as such. Maybe there's a reason for that. WD-40 now sells a Rust Preventative. I haven't tried it, either. Nor any of their many other new special purpose products. Though it could happen that someday I might find I need something special, and buy a can of one of their new products to try. If I tripped over a can of Kroil, I might try it, too. AFAIK, and I've got a small collection of old cast iron tools around here too, most of which were acquired with substantial rust, paste wax can be good. Once the rust came off, paste wax alone is sufficient to keep them from rusting, though I generally use a coating of oil. That works as well, as long as you re-apply it frequently. Which is also true of paste wax. My last employer bought paste wax by the case for use on some of our equipment. One advantage of paste wax is that once it dries it won't attract dust, and our work environment was full of dust. Even my home shop tends to be full of dust. I'm in process of refurbing, again, an old Lewis shaper that is once again frozen. It was oiled after it's last refurb, and then sat here for several years with Mobil 1 as the lube and protector. There is no rust. There is a film of muddy oil however. Dang it!
Funny thing. I'll be using WD-40 to strip that oily mud off. This time, it will get proper spindle and way oils applied, and a dust cover. I have projects to do on that poor little shaper that means it will get a bunch of use, so it needs to stay lubed. Boeshield seems to not be what it needs.
Bill
Forgot to mention here that I once built racing go karts for my uncle. We used a sprayer bottle to apply the muriatic acid we used to strip rust off the frames. If you were careful of overspray, you didn't need gloves. OSHA was just a baby then. Late 1973, and 74-75 on the aircraft maintenance.
Bill
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |