Suo Gan;
Now, how did THAT happen (said with a RED face!!).
It is now "fixed" and reads as it should.
Dale53
Suo Gan;
Now, how did THAT happen (said with a RED face!!).
It is now "fixed" and reads as it should.
Dale53
May I post both articles on Castpics ?
Reloading Data Project - (in retirement)
http://sourceforge.net/projects/reloadersrfrnce/
Wiljen:
For my portion of this.........Certainly , you can !
_______________________________
grages :
I use a slotted wooden dowel with a slow speed cordless drill. I put a piece of 320 grit Auto grade sandpaper in the slotted dowel and turn slowly. When I get close to the dia. that I want ( stop often and check your progress ) , I change over to 600 grit to finish the interior with a glass smooth surface.
Works for me ! !
Ben
Last edited by Ben; 08-19-2014 at 10:05 AM.
Wiljen;
Of course.
Dale53
A TERRIFIC STORY TOLD IN A WAY EVERYONE CAN UNDERSTAND. THANKS BEN, AND DALE, IT WAS VERY KIND OF YOU BOTH TO EXPLAIN AN OLD AND CRAFTY WAY TO LUBE BOOLITS. THIS WAS THE WAY SHOOTERS LUBED WHEN BOOLITS FIRST CAME TO BE, OTHER THAN JUST RUBING LUBE ON BOOLITS BY HAND. THIS STORY WAS SO GREAT I MIGHT EVEN TRY IT.(been casting boolits well over 50 years and always used a luber/sizer) MANY THANKS AGAIN. BIG MAC
Thank you Gents - I will pull both for the Member Articles Section.
Reloading Data Project - (in retirement)
http://sourceforge.net/projects/reloadersrfrnce/
Great stuff.I use a similar method for my .45-70's.
Seein how I can't swing a lubesizer at this point. Looks like this will be my method.
Thanks for all the tips.
Good job to both of you, I have never pan lubed but after this I think I could, thanks again
"The lube is melted in the metal pan and the bullets that have already been sized to .310 are placed in the pan of liquid lube :"
You size them before you lube them?
I thought the process was you lube them and THEN size them.
Are your captions in the wrong place?
"Here is the finished product ready to load and shoot :"
"Here is what the bullets look like when they are removed from the cooled , solidified bullet lube with the " Kake Cutter "
Shouldn't they be rearranged?
But I like it, the hot plate is a great idea. I can do it out on the patio.
I'll be doing this soon.
Last edited by Rio Grande; 12-17-2009 at 10:47 PM.
Rio Grande
I size 1st., then melt the lube, then I place the sized bullets in the molten lube , wait on them to solidify, then take the " kake cutter " and removed the bullets from the lube.
Ben
Hi all!
Gr8 stuff Ben and Dale53!
Would castor oil/beeswax say 30/70 mix work for lubing subsonic (<1100fps) bullets in my .308 Mauser? I was thinking castor oil would have excellent lubricity, not sure how it would mix???
Or would Lee liquid Alox be a better replacment for the castor oil? (same mix ratio)
Havnt tried the pan lube yet, still collecting pans etc.. to do so.
The castor oil might work just fine.
If you've got some Beeswax , try this simple mixture that has worked GREAT for me in the past :
Mix your beeswax with Lucas " red & tacky " # 2 grease. A tube of it at your local auto parts store will cost you about $5.00. Mixing with beeswax, your $5 investment will go a LONG way !
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...id=14&loc=show
You may have to experiment to get the correct mixture so that your bullets can be easily removed from the cooled and solidified lube when pan lubing.
I'd start with about 70% beeswax and 30 % red Lucas grease. If the cooled mixture is too hard, reheat and add a little bit more red grease,( 65/35 , so on....so on...., so on...) until you get the consistency that you're looking for.
For any shooting of cast bullets below 1,600 fps ( and possibly higher ?), this combination will work just fine.
Many people complain that when pan lubing, that their lube won't stay in the bullet lube grooves. This lube WILL ! !
Thanks,
Ben
Last edited by Ben; 01-21-2010 at 10:12 AM.
THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN HIT THE CENTRE OF THE TARGET IS WITH A CENTREFIRE!!!
I use a lot of straight AC WW's. I'll often times add a " touch " of tin to get a mold to fill out well.
Works for me.
Ben
Thought I'd pass this tip that I got on this forum -- a golf club shank is tapered. Use a tubing cutter to cut it exactly where it will just fit over your boolits, and you can cut them out of the wax, ready for the sizer. In fact, if you leave it long, you can stack up a bunch of them in the shank before having to empty it.
As another newbie luber, i assume that doing this will work the same on pistol bullets just the same? any reason to ''have'' to size first if the mold drops correctly sized bullets to start with?
Btwiceborn;
It works just as well with pistol bullets as it does with rifle bullets.
If your bullets are sized correctly when they fall from the mould, then just use them that way. It is actually a superior method than sizing. Most of the precision Schuetzen riflemen use "as cast" bullets and they shoot groups at 200 yards that will amaze you (and with plain base bullets and single shot rifles). I'm talking of ten shot groups under 1"...
Dale53
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |