did you notice the original poster had 100lbs of the beeswax you are seeking ?
did you notice the original poster had 100lbs of the beeswax you are seeking ?
Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.
Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.
http://www.cafepress.com/castboolits
castboolits@gmail.com
For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:
Pukka Bundhooks
RonSFNM---You want to make lube and only have 100 pounds of beeswax??? I have a teaspoon of flour---think I'll bake some bread. Wow 100 pounds of lube would even last Dale 53 a couple weeks.
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Do not fear the enemy, for your enemy can only take your life. It is far better that you fear the media, for they will steal your honor. That awful power, the public opinion of a nation, is created in America by a horde of ignorant, self-complacent simpletons who failed at ditching and shoemaking and fetched up in journalism on their way to the poorhouse. Mark Twain
By all accounts here, White Label lubes seem like a good choice, I think I'll try some but not sure which variety is right for me. I've been using Lyman moly, a nice soft lube that does a good job for my type of shooting.
For my .44 caliber pistols, loads at the low end are 1 in 20 alloy bullets at about 800 fps. At the high end, Lyman no 2 alloy at about 1150 fps. For rifles, its Lyman no 2 in calibers ranging from .25 up to .375 and velocities ranging from about 1500 fps up to about 2000 fps. I don't need to push cast bullets beyond that speed.
I like the idea of setting up my unheated Lubrisizer with one fairly soft lube for all of these applications. In perusing the White Label site, the BAC product looks to be about right. Is that correct? Any advice would be appreciated. thx - CW
Three millions of people, armed in the holy cause of liberty, and in such a country as that which we possess, are invincible by any force which our enemy can send against us. - Patrick Henry, March 1775
Over the past 35 years, I've shot mostly the NRA formula 50% Beeswax/50% Alox 2138F, and so long as bullets fit the barrel never had a problem with Leading up to 2200 fps with gas checks. The only problem with the stuff is smoke on indoor ranges.
Lubrizol purchased Alox Corporation, and stopped making 2138F. Alox 2138F is just Alox 350 with a little bit of another wax added, so Lars just uses the 350. I have so much of it, I'm still using the original.
My daughter complains about smoke on indoor ranges so I'm experimenting with other lubes for her.
With a hundred pounds of bees wax did someone at the border check his bee keepers license.
Stephen Perry
Angeles BR
I have extensively used the NRA 50/50 formula bullet lube for many years with excellent results. When Lars White label lubes came to my attention, I was ready to examine another type to reduce the smoke on my home club's indoor range.
After reading the specs, I decided on Carnauba Red. It requires heat to flow through the sizer, but I already had a heater. It has the benefits of less smoke than 50/50 and has a higher melting point. Melting point is important to me as I shoot all summer when the temperatures can really climb (not like in Arizona, of course, but well up into the nineties and above, on occasion). A real bonus is that they are so inexpensive that it's not worth it to me, any longer, to make my own.
I have been extremely happy with Carnauba Red and will continue to recommend it to my friends and acquaintances.
YMMV
Dale53
When I put my last stick of Javelina 50% Alox 2138 and 50% yellow beeswax into the sizer last week, I ordered a few sticks of White Label 50/50.
My order came today! WOW! Hey Mr. Larsen --- Thank you for the super fast service and also for the "extra" stick of lube.
This evening, I put about 2/3 of the "extra" stick of lube in the sizer. (Your lube sticks really are longer than the other brands
I've been using the NRA formula since the 70's and am very interested to see if there is any noticeable difference between Alox 2138 and replacement Alox. Mostly I shoot cast bullets in my revolvers, and while I've always had a touch of forcing cone leading, I've never had bore leading.
I'll watch the sizer to see when the White Label Lube works it way out to my bullets, but since it appears to be exactly the same as my old Javelina lube --- I doubt I'll even know when the "changing of the guard" happens.
Anyway, thanks again for the super-fast service!
I'll post if I notice any difference between the "old-time NRA Formula" and the White Label Lube 50/50. Better yet, I'll post if I can't tell the difference (of if the White Label works better!).
The only lube I use for handguns is Carnauba Red. I like it a lot, low smoke, excellent accuracy and you can't beat the price. Carnauba Red flows very nice in a Star sizer.
I have used Carnauba Red for some time with my Star Sizer. It requires a heater to flow properly.
I consider some type of heater to be a GOOD addition to the Star luber/sizer. It's just this simple. If you want/require a higher melting point than NRA 50/50 (which White Label also provides) then you need a heater.
I use just enough heat to get the job done. If you don't have a rheostat for your heater, then you can easily make one with commonly available electrical supplies.
Use the "search function" and you'll find all kinds of good suggestions for a heater - everything from the good but rather pricy Star brand heater to the "old clothes iron" on an aluminum transfer plate home made one.
I use the Lyman flat heater (which comes without a heat control) and simply used an "already on hand" Dremel Speed control. It is simply a rheostat and works perfectly to control the exact amount of heat I need.
I work in a climate controlled basement. If you work in a different environment, you may need another solution.
Dale53
Yep, BAC will run in a sizer w/o heat unless it is very cold, then maybe a lightbulb next to the res would be enough. I tried both BAC & Carnuba when I started w/ Lar's & like the less sticky Carnuba in my Star. It does need a bit of heat, just a little, about 90deg, but it works so well I see no reason to make my own except for having the ability to.
Last edited by fredj338; 12-29-2009 at 03:20 PM.
I've only had my used Star for a month and just started using BAC.
It seems to work pretty darned good.
But as stated, in cold weather it might need to be warmed up some.
I use a heat gun on a low setting.
I place it on the bench about 1 ft from the Star and let it run for a while.
It warms up the lube and my hands in the process.
A regular haid dryer would do the same thing I'm thinking.
I purchased a case of Carnauba Red sometime ago and only 2 weeks ago began to use it. I had a massive supply of LBT. One thing I noticed, if you make it any longer I'll have to trim for my Star. Folks it's a great lube at a very good price plus he's one of us.
The 45 bullet on left has Carnauba Red while the 44 & 38 have Ballisti Cast hard blue. The lube is also packaged nice............Creeker
Dry Creek Bullet Works
Dry Creek Firewood
New guy here on the forum, and to casting, but wanted to say that I just ordered some Xlox from Glenn. Great price and shipping was super-fast!! They defenitely have a new repeat customer.
Last edited by liljohnnie; 09-28-2010 at 03:09 PM. Reason: adding pictures
INFIDEL 4 LIFE
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |