Just a thought but when replacing a thin light weight factory one with a heavy duty steel one I would think the small light weight pivot screw would need upgraded also.
Just a thought but when replacing a thin light weight factory one with a heavy duty steel one I would think the small light weight pivot screw would need upgraded also.
Yes. Steel, Jim, steel.
I did what Crabo did, purchased a 45* TiN coated carbide countersink and fix all my El Cheapo Lee two-banger plates. I think those moulds could be greatly improved with a thicker (1/4" would be plenty) sprue plate.
Opinions on best well angle?
Gear
Jim it works great, like others mentioned its like other molds (H&G) from the past. Ballisti-Cast still makes theirs like that. Others may also??
It would be tough to pull off with a thin plate but on thicker plates its great.
Helps keep the lead from running/overflowing everywhere. You can just start the lead flowing and move from cavity to cavity without meking a mess
Argh! I need one for my Lee 6 cavity molds!!!
I should have material here tomorrow to make one. I'll post pictures when it's done.
“an armed society is a polite society.”
Robert A. Heinlein
"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus
Woooooooooohooooooooooooooooooooooo
Gussy is the one that made up thick sprue plates with longer handles to make it easier to cut the sprue, I bought several my self and they work great.
OK,
who want's to be the first victim? ...er, a, I mean who want's to be the guinea pig & try out the first one?
“an armed society is a polite society.”
Robert A. Heinlein
"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus
The sprue plates I have on my BRP and NOE molds are FAR superior to any other (Lyman, RCBS, Lee, etc) that I have. Just easier to work with.
Venting the mold -- or the sprue plate or top of mold on a problematic mold has cured ALL of my issues with picky molds. I think Linstrum turned me on to that a while back. Never ruined ANY of my expensive steel molds ---- and I've never NEEDED to revent any of my aluminum BRP or NOE molds because they are already vented right with the "Knurled"???? type of venting instead of just the lines that other molds have..
Nice looking plates though Jim, I'd buy some if I didn't know how to fix mine.................
Art
Art
”Only accurate rifles are interesting”
——Townsend Whelen
In a time of universal deceit , telling the truth is a revolutionary act
—- George Orwell
If I was nit pickin', I'd extend the trough another 1/4 inch on each end.
What is the wheel for? Hand opening? I would like something I can hit with a mallet. I've got a good rhythm going using the mallet. I use a hickory sledge handle to open the bottom pour pot, then cool it on a wet rag, whack the sprue, open, tap the hinge bolt if needed and keep on without having to pick up or set anything down.
Crabo
Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
AbitNutz called for it first, so the prototype will go to him for evaluation. There will be no charge for it, but I will ask him to please post his results after he tries it.
The "wheel" is there because after I made the plate, I tried it on a mold & found that the steel didn't extend beyond the handles, so there was no good place to hit it. The round piece of aluminum was a quick way of attaching something that would stick out far enough to be hit without damaging the mold handles. Future versions will be made out of steel that is 1/2" wider & will not need the wheel.
There is 1 other error on the sprue plate that I am aware of. The notch, near the center of it, where the hold down bolt grabs it, is a little too deep. I had a bad number on my drawing when I made it. That will be fixed on the next one too. It will work the way it is, but it just doesn't look quite right (because it isn't)
Depending on the feedback I get, I may extend the trough. The door is still open on that one.
This thing is just a first prototype. I'm expecting to need to make a few changes.
“an armed society is a polite society.”
Robert A. Heinlein
"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus
Jim:
Looks VERY nice !
I think extending the trough a bit may be a good idea as well !
Put me on the "sign-up list" for three to experiment with !
Jerry
S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator
My reasoning on extending the trough is because:
1. It gives each end cavity, two places to draw from.
2. H&G does it that way. (maybe that should be the first reason.)
Do you have an idea on cost yet? I really like the way it is developing.
Crabo
Do not argue with idiots. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |