New guy with WW question

[Az Rick]

First off I would like to say thanks to you guys! I've already learned alot, got a ways to go though.
My question is about WW's. I've tried searching but can't find the answer. I assume that ones marked "p" are lead, "al" aluminum and "fe" are iron if I remember the periodic table. I have WW"s that are marked with m, cg, t or t type and some not marked at all.
Do I only want to use "P" for lead or are some of the others ok to add to the mix. I realize I don't want to use iron, or aluminum.
How can I find out about the others? Which ones do I use and how do I tell?

Thanks, Rick

[starbits]

Welcome to the forum Rick

Most of what you listed are lead ww. The markings are to tell the tire guys what to put on what type wheel. Fe is iron and doesn't matter much because it will just float when the lead is melted. The ones you don't want are the zinc ones and not all of them are marked Zn. There is a thread called zinc ww pictorial that has some nice photos of both marked and unmarked ones.

Best bet is to get a thermometer and keep the temp under 750 degrees so any zinc ones that get by your search don't get melted.

Starbits

[Az Rick]

Thanks Starbits, I was hoping I wouldn't lose so many to cast. I will check out the zinc thread. I did know not to use zinc, but didn't realize some weren't marked. I want to get a thermometer just haven't done so yet.
I appreciate your reply. I too am So. Az.

Best, Rick

[WHITETAIL]

AZ, Welcome to the forum!

[fryboy]

it used to be most ww's were lead of some alloy the easy way to tell without a thermometer is a pair of wire cutters( side cutters, dikes whatever u call them in ur part of the world ) iron of course wont cut ,lead will smash/cut and zinc will cut but not smash ( with enough applied pressure that is ) a knife blade also works lead will cut zinc wont ,
starbits is right the zinc thread has a good bit of info to it and btw ? welcome to the forum !

[The10mmKid]

In lieu of trying to maintain ~750degF on a roaring turkey fryer, I chose the side cutter test approach.

The lead WW's are easily nicked with the cutters, while the zinc WW's fight back hard as a rock.

'da Kid

[fredj338]

In lieu of trying to maintain ~750degF on a roaring turkey fryer, I chose the side cutter test approach.

The lead WW's are easily nicked with the cutters, while the zinc WW's fight back hard as a rock.

'da Kid

Very true. I sort all that I get, it's just easier & you get a feel for it after a 5gal bucket or two. The suspect ones get the sidecutter check. Steel ones almost always have riveted clips. Stickons are either near pure lead or zinc. Easy to tell, you can NOT bend azinc strip of stickons.

[Markbo]

So just to piggy back on the information here, I have about 2 5 gallon buckets of wheel weights. I can go through them all with dykes and separate the lead from the 'anything else'.

Is there any use for the anything else pile? Maybe trade the local scrap dealer for lead?

[Echo]

Markbo, I render slowly. Can't see it as a race, so keep the temp down. That way, the zincies just float up with the clips. May take 45 minutes to melt down a dutch oven full of WW's, but What's The Rush?

Echo, AKA Milby'53

[jmsj]

Az Rick,
Welcome to the site.
With more experience you will be able to visually spot most of the different types of wheel weights. I usually get my wheel weights in smaller quantities (10-30 pounds ata a time) and I use the side cutter method. I still keep the temp down when smelting, once in a while a small zinc one will get by. jmsj

[mold maker]

If your going to take the ZINC weights to the scrap yard to trade or sell, they shouldn't,t make a trip through the hot pot first. Scrappie will pay more for clean zinc. The epoxy paint burns and leaves them cruddy.

[wistlepig1]

I keep the temp down and let them float on the smelt. Here is where I got my Thermometer

http://www.teltru.com/p-272-big-gree...degrees-f.aspx

price $19.00, not bad!

used it for 6 mo. now with no problems, no I don't work for them or anyone else(retired)

[deerslayer]

Just skim them off takes alot less time. I don't have a thermometer and haven't had any zink problems I just skim as soon as the pot is molten don't wait if the pot has melted and they ain't take them out immediately.

[geargnasher]

First off I would like to say thanks to you guys! I've already learned alot, got a ways to go though.
My question is about WW's. I've tried searching but can't find the answer. I assume that ones marked "p" are lead, "al" aluminum and "fe" are iron if I remember the periodic table. I have WW"s that are marked with m, cg, t or t type and some not marked at all.
Do I only want to use "P" for lead or are some of the others ok to add to the mix. I realize I don't want to use iron, or aluminum.
How can I find out about the others? Which ones do I use and how do I tell?

Thanks, Rick

You'll see all kinds of abbreviations on lead alloy WW, most of the ones marked "AL" are coated with alumimum metallic paint and then clear-coated so as not to corrode or damage the clear finish on aluminum wheels in salty areas. They also have several different rim and clip styles because of different wheel rim designs. The steel wheel clips are about all the same.

Many are marked MC or P, whatever that means. They are good boolit fodder.

Fe and Zn are the useless ones, with the Zn being a real problem if it gets melted in in my experience.

Gear

[Az Rick]

Thanks for all the help. I've smelted about 80lbs or so now, 1lb ingots. I didn't want to make a mistake and ruin my alloy. It is fairly easy to tell them apart once you know what to look for and lose the fear that they will immediately melt in the pot. I didn't have nearly as many non lead as I feared.
I've found that I enjoy the process, can't wait to cast some of my own boolits! I'm hooked.

Best, Rick

[cajun shooter]

I have encountered many steel ww's here in Louisiana. I now use a magnet to check some of my ww's . Just remember to stay away from the clip as all of those are ferrous metal. You are going through a normal stage of smelting that every one does. Just relax enjoy and try to make the heat as much fun as possible. You might want to wear a cloth headband because a huge drop of sweat will blow that silver stream right back into your face and body. Later David

[buckbeans]

AZ Rick
I'am in Tucson and I have a spare Lyman thermometer
Pm me if interested

[TripletDad]

Not that I'm an expert - after two smelting sessions, but I keep the lead as close to it's freezing temp as possible in a six quart cast iron dutch oven without the lid and a turkey fryer.

Since this was my second time, I left a couple of inches of lead in the pot from the first smelting session. That made start up a lot easier. For the first session, I used diagonal pliers to find 40 lbs or so of weights I 'knew' were lead and melted them before I started with the method below. I've also got a lyman thermometer, so I knew I wasn't starting off too hot, i.e. hot enough to melt zinc.

I dump in 7 to 10 pounds worth out of the bucket and the lead will solidify around the new, cold weights. I've bought a 2 lb bottom pour ladle from rotometals, and it's beefy enough to poke and beat the weights into the lead. As the new comes up in temp, the lead will get easier and easier to work with and I switch to a slotted stainless steel spoon. That's when I start looking for the zinc ones. I try and fish them out before the steel tire clips. Then I get all the tire clips off the top. By this time the lead is bright and shiny and melted on the surface and I really get serious with the slotted spoon stirring around trying to find anything it bumps into. Once I'm sure every thing's out, in goes another 7 to 10 lbs.

I put a 143lbs of wheel weights in tonight, ended up with 108lbs of lead (according to Lee, ingot molds, I didn't actually weigh the ingots.)