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Originally Posted by
AZ-Stew
Stainless or carbon fiber rod, one piece. I prefer stainless because it won't embed with grit. Not sure about the carbon fiber, but it's claimed it doesn't embed, either. One piece rod. No joints to impact on rifling on either end of the barrel.
Hoppe's #9 works OK for cast shooting. It will take out the powder fouling. There are a number of ways to get lead out, so I won't say mine's "the best". Surely someone else will make the same claim.
For jacketed bullet cleaning, I prefer Montana X-Treme Copper Killer or their Bore Solvent. Both contain lots of ammonia to dissolve the copper fouling. DO NOT open the bottle, bring it to your nose and take a big sniff with either of these! I believe they will remove nose hair.
With the strong ammonia content of the Montana X-Treme solvents, nylon brushes are better than bronze. The bronze (an alloy of copper and tin) bristles will be eaten away by the solvent. Look for ones that have brass wire for the core, rather than steel. Yes, the solvents will attack the brass because it's a copper alloy, too, but you'll wear out the nylon bristles long before the brass core wires deteriorate enough to be noticed. Avoid the stainless steel brushes.
Clean from the breech whenever possible. Use a bore guide.
Use patches and jags properly sized for your barrel. The patch should have a snug fit with the bore. Too tight and you'll flex the rod. Too loose and you don't get good patch contact with the bore. Slotted tips are, in my opinion, worthless.
Run a brush, wet with solvent, through the bore. Leave the gun sit for 15-20 minutes to give the solvent time to work. Watch TV or do something useful, but give the solvent time. Wiping it out right after you put it in doesn't work. After the wait, run a dry patch through the bore. I will come out dirty, and if you're cleaning a barrel fired with jacketed rounds, it will have bluish green streaks on it from the reduced copper. Repeat. Repeat again, but from now on until the bore is clean, you don't need the brush. You can run wet patches through the bore, followed by dry ones after you wait for the solvent to work. When the patches come out clean, run a couple of dry patches through to clean out all solvent, followed by a patch with some very thin oil on it to protect the bore.
I clean my AR after 100 rounds. It's broken in well enough now that it only takes 2-3 passes with wet and dry patches to clean it. My others are cleaned after each range trip, regardless of round count.
I don't have any snakes, so I can't comment.
Regards,
Stew