At my gun club I have seen at least three Glocks blow up. TOTAL destroyed the guns! I was standing behind one shooter scoring him when his Glock blew up. Can it be done? Sure? SHOULD it be done? That is another question I can't answer for you.
3X, huh? Any injuries? Stout guns should help contain mishaps. I've seen a few oddities with 1911s, including one of my own, and no injuries.
I've seen a glock in .45 ACP blow up. Shooter was using a Dillon 550, was having trouble with it not operating correctly. Ended up with some heavily charged loads. Whether the glock or the dillon is the problem I can't be sure. I can say that they come apart in a heckuva hurry.
Last edited by redneckdan; 08-01-2009 at 10:36 AM.
Some where between here and there.....
I had a Glock 17, but it got stolen. I do not remember it having polygonal rifling. I think it had the standard square rifling. I got a letter from Glock about a year after it was stolen stating that there was a safety problem with the trigger. Some police officers were shooting themselves in the foot while holstering their Glocks. [I hope the guy who stole my Glock shot himself in the foot.] I never shot lead out of it because jacketed bullets were only a few pennies more than lead and it wasn't worth it. I sized a .358 125 gr semi-jacketed hollowpoint down to fit in the Glock 17 and had no problems. I only shot lead bullets out of my 357 or 22LR.
I have a Jarvis barrel for my Glock 17 and a Storm Lake barrel for my Glock 26. I am a real Glock fan so I don't want to take a chance with leading. Never shot lead through any of my factory Glock barrels yet. Chamber support seems fine on factory Glock barrels in 9 mm. and .357 Sig, but my 40 S & W cases come out with a pronounced bulge near the case head, so I think that would be another reason not to use a factory barrel in .40 S & W. Just my 2 cents worth.
exile
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'bout time I do a follow-up to my post #52.
I haven't had time to do a lot of shooting this year. But I did shoot a bunch of the a fore mentioned 5.0 231 loads with the 14.5 BHN boolits. I haven't tested the hardness again, but I'd bet the BHN has gone up since they were cast.
Any way, I've shot around 200 rounds using only the cast 175 TC lee boolit at targets on the 25 yard range. All manner of shooting, slow aimed off-hand at a steel swinger target of mine, paper targets, and clay birds on a MTM target stand. I even put up a silhouette, played rattle battle, or bill drills, where you shoot as fast as you can safely.
RESULTS? I'd shoot a box of 50, pull the barrel to take a look-see at the sky. Minimal leading! While I did have a cleaning kit along, I didn't bother to run a patch through the barrel. The leading/fouling DID NOT INCREASE, just stayed about the same. After the range session, I cleaned first with a solvent soaked patch. There was almost no metallic lead on that first patch, that after more than 200 lead boolits through it. The bore was then shiny and appeared to be clean. I'm wondering if what I thought was leading was just residual lube smeared on the bore.
I'm satisfied with this load, I have a thousand cast up, and 500 loaded. I'm still gonna keep an eye on the leading scenario, never can be to diligent.
i own the G32 .357sig and have shot a few hundred rounds of commerical cast from hunter's supply. I used 7.8gr of unique. the pistol handled well and functioned without any cause for alarm.
i have thought about getting another barrel for it just for shooting cast, and also another barrel for my g19. i love my glocks and want to take care of them the best i can and if i need substitute barrels then i'll just do it and keep on keeping on.
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The rifling form in Martini BP rifles was that of Henry not Medford. Due to the temporary lack of j.......d bullets experiments were done with lead bullet using Lyman 452374 and Lyman 401043 molds. The latter included regular RN bullets and wonderfully converted HP mold by Erik. The .40’s were shot in a G27, SIG229 and HK USPc. No lead. The .45 bullets were fired in two HK's. No lead. These bullets were also fired in a G36, G30 and G21 with no lead. These bullets were from WW alloy using 50:50 Lube and Unique powder-still searching for loads. The accuracy, at the worst, was usable. It is still a work in progress. This experiment is in its early stages having only fired two hundred and fifty rounds in the past several weeks. Back in the day when problems were first attributed to cast bullets those guns were wrecked as if there was a double charge of a fast powder.
I own a Glock 35 I replaced the barrel with a Lone Wolf barrel, it shoots as well as the Glock barrel with cast boolits. I have put many hundreds of rounds trough both barrels. The reason I changed was the uncertainty every time I pulled the trigger. I’m not really as enamored with the Glock any more; I like my Springfield XDM .40 better and may trade the Glock in for a .45 of some type.
We have 2 Glocks, 1 is a highly modified G20 10mm with KKM barrel and 4 port comp, I do shoot lead bullets and read all the posts at other forums and decided when I wanted to make the G20 10mm into a deer hunting gun I would forgo any BS and order the KKM barrel and comp. Have had "0" issues with leading with this barrel. But as others have said here, the key to reduceing or eliminating leading in any fire arm is slugging your barrel and sizeing bullets accordingly. Along with makeing your aloy the right hardness as well. That is time consumeing though, but a very nessecary evil in order to make the correctly sized bullets shoot very well.
My Wife also has a G22 in 40 S&W with a Wolff barrel and she shoots my home cast bullets with "0" issues as well.
Thats my 2 bits on that subject.
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It is quite possible that lead has nothing to do with KB's at all other than it is easier to push a lead bullet back in the case if proper crimping or sizing is not followed. If a Glock has a tendency to push the bullet back into the case while chambering and still going to battery and the load is hot, abnormal pressures will cause drastic problems especially since .40's are marginal anyway. A good half or more Kb's probably happen from double charges because people blow up all kinds of guns all of the time and it is never their fault plus people love to run with disaster stories.
Having re-Glocked myself recently with a 40 S&W caliber Model 23, I've run it a few times since bringing it home 9 days ago, and 2/3 of the 300 rounds I've fired have been castings, through a Storm Lake after-market barrel. The second sequence with castings left a bit of leading in the bore, this in the SL barrel. It is brand-new, so is largely unseasoned with oils/solvents and has yet to have any jacketed bullets run through it. I generally run 100-300 j-words through any barrel before trying castings, and should have done so. I'll correct that oversight before any more castings get run down that tube. A bit of Chore Boy on a played-out bore brush with Hoppe's removed all the deposits easily.
I may give the OEM barrel a try with the castings as well. I ran 100 j-words through it already, and it had some shooting with the redcoats prior to my purchase, based on the now-cleaned copper sheen inside the bore at time of purchase. Both barrels are VERY smoothly-finished internally, as-found.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
Like I said earlier, I'm sure the Kbs have nothing to do with leading. We had a new gun at work Kb on the first mag. I think it has more to do with the 40+cals lack of support in the chamber area which results in swelling of fired cases at the base, which occasionally prevents the gun returning to battery and the Glocks ability to fire when slightlyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy out of battery. Thats what we found at work (when I was there, which I'm not now ).
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I've been considering a Glock, in the 10mm flavor for a while now. Just wish there were more of a selection in that arena.
Does this exhibit the same unsupported cartridge base area, as the 40 S&W?
Would like to shoot some cast from one as well if I go that route. I see Lone Wolf has the aftermarket barrel for that as well.
I cast Lee 120gr TC bullets for a friend who has a glock 17. Last year he put about 6000 rounds through it. It never fails. We shoot IPSC and 25 meter precision. He has shot lots of 49:s but not any 50:s yet. With his glock and my cast boolits he is the third best shooter at the club. Not bad considering that many of the others has sig neuhausen and similar precision pistols.
new user here but old hand with glocks, and I don't like them either, but now you're talking two different things.
will a cast work in a glock? yepper. never had a problem and no one i know has ever had a problem,
but shotman, now you're throwing in accuracy. well, for my life, I carry a glock 21. period, accuracy doesn't mean jack when the gun wont go bang, FTE, FTF, these things are unheard of in glocks, if the magazine is not full of wet clay, it will feed and fire everytime.
everytime.
Minute of bad guy accuracy . with cast boolits.
if you like carrying a gun and wearing something that makes folks say, oh, wow, can I see that. that's one thing, if your life depends on it, and that's a stretch for 99.9% fo the people in the USA, but if your life truly depends on it, you'll find those folks carrying a glock.
and , as I say I don't like them, not one bit but it goes bang every time. Every time.
Yep. All factory Glock barrels, including the ones in the guns "designed" for competition (G-34 & G-35) have chambers which are rather loose at the back end and tight at the front end. Glock does this because it makes the guns feed reliably (thanks to the generous-sized rear end) while still shooting accurately (the tight throat and front part of the chamber). The Glock was designed for police and military, who fire factory ammo almost exclusively, and where reliability is paramount. They apply this philosophy to all of their models.
If you want to maximize the 10mm in the Glock, you need to get a "fully-supported" (not really, but they're a LOT better than factory), aftermarket barrel, and considering those circumstances, you might as well get the traditional rifling, so cast boolits are not an issue.
For extensive information and research on using/loading 10mms, especially Glocks, go to the following two subforums at GlockTalk. (I'm one of the mods at the 10mm Reloading forum there.)
http://glocktalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=38
http://glocktalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=67
The more I think about it, the more logic tells me there's something else at work in the lead=bad in polygonal rifling. I've been thinking about my Glock factory barrels, and they polygonal rifling actually makes for a REALLY smooth interior surface of the barrel. Combine that with the Tennifer (Melonite) finish which surface hardens the steel to up to a milimeter or so in depth, and I can't help but imagine there's something else going on...
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
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