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Thread: Smeared sprue plate

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy 35isit's Avatar
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    Smeared sprue plate

    I have a LBT 180gr and a RCBS 180gr both .357 molds. They both have the sprue plate and top of the mold smeared with lead. This was done before I knew about the Bull Plate Sprue Lube. I have read many reviews of this product. It seems no caster should be without it. So before I restart my casting career I am going to purchase some.

    My question is. How do you remove any lead that is smeared on there now. I definately do not want to ruin these moulds. In fact the LBT mould doesn't actually belong to me.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I carefully heat with a propane torch and wisk it away with a cotton rag..do use a polyester one...

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy johnlaw484's Avatar
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    Lube it with graphite. I use a soft carpenters pencil to lube the mold and any place I do not want lead to stick.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wally View Post
    I carefully heat with a propane torch and wisk it away with a cotton rag..do use a polyester one...

    I bit of a brain fart on Wally's answer, DON'T use a polyester one, it will melt and be worse than the lead...Ray
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayinNH View Post
    I bit of a brain fart on Wally's answer, DON'T use a polyester one, it will melt and be worse than the lead...Ray
    Correct--it's been a long week...

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have used a single edge razor blade and carefully shaved off the lead on the bottom of the sprue plate. After that regular use of Bullplate lube will make the rest disappear.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    While I'm casting, I keep some 0000 steel wool handy to remove any lead that STARTS to smear. The idea is not to get to that point. If your smearing the lead , you are opening the mould too soon. Slow down and use two or more moulds. I also keep a propane torch nearby to pre-heat my moulds. Stubborn smears might need some heat applied before wiping. Another great tool, that wont hurt the mould is a wooden Kabob skewer. Use, the sharpened point it to flick away small lead particles. Never used any sprue plate lube on my moulds, never found it necessary.

    Winelover
    Last edited by winelover; 01-22-2010 at 07:23 PM. Reason: omission

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold RNyogi's Avatar
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    Dubber 123 turned me on to the Bullplate lube. The slightest bit on a Q-tip takes care of any lead smearing. The little bottle that came with my NOE mold will probably last me a lifetime.
    "A man's got to know his limitations"
    Greg

  9. #9
    Le Loup Solitaire
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    Lead Smear Removal

    The following method will also will remove lead smears from blocks or sprue plates. Take an ingot such as the ones that are casted by Lyman, Saeco, RCBS and Lee ingot molds and pressing down on it, rub the smear with one of the corners. The lead from the smear will adhere/stick to the ingot corner and will be gone. It is better to take preventative measures than to spend time getting rid of smears; Bullshop Lube is good stuff for that purpose. Powdered graphite also works. Overheating the mold leads to smears and cutting the sprue before it solidifys will do it for sure. There are ways around that like using two molds in tandem or cooling the sprue plate with damp rags or sponges. Its your call. Unless you're in a hurry the best way to avoid the problem is to keep melt and mold at a constant and correct temperature and not cast too fast. LLS

  10. #10
    In Remembrance
    montana_charlie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by winelover View Post
    If your smearing the lead , you are opening the mould too soon.
    Exactly right.

    Bullplate is great for keeping the steel sprue plate from causing damage as it moves across the steel (or aluminum) mould top. It is a lubricant which prevents galling.
    Using Bullplate to prevent smearing lead when cutting the sprue is turning a great product into a 'bandaid' for poor technique.

    CM
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  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well, I don't know about you, but I need a band aid once in a while.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    After the mold gets up to temp, I wipe it off with my (leather gloved) thumb.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    +1 on what Kelbro said.
    Chuck

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    Using lead to clean lead smears works for me. Horace

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use the Bruce B. method of speed casting. (one mould and no smearing)
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  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    35isit.....
    In the past I have used a little brass brush the size of a tooth brush to remove hot lead off the top of the mold blocks and spruce plate..
    That won't work on a cold mold so you would have to heat up your mold up to cast temp first..
    I still keep the brush by my pot when casting in case I plug up the vent lines on the mold..
    Last edited by Nrut; 01-24-2010 at 04:27 AM.





  17. #17
    In Remebrance


    Bret4207's Avatar
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    Kinda OT but, noobies- One of the best things you can learn to do is to keep an eagle eye out for the very first sign of smearing or splatters on the block faces, anything like that. Fix it ASAP!!! Don't make 5 more casts and then address it. Even one more cast may mean a ruined top surface.
    Last edited by Bret4207; 01-24-2010 at 09:16 AM.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I hold back a couple of sprues, let them cool and use them like an eraser.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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