Please keep your zinc because every sea going boat needs huge amount as sacrificial metal to keep corrosion at bay. If you cast it into the right shapes you can get good money.
Please keep your zinc because every sea going boat needs huge amount as sacrificial metal to keep corrosion at bay. If you cast it into the right shapes you can get good money.
In the past when I got a box of mixed WW's, I hand sorted them.. Stick on lead in one bucket, lead ww in another, and I got to knowing what Zinc, Iron, and aluminum weights looked like. The Zinc weights are larger for their respective weights.. and sometimes there are odd looking markings on them. I suspect some of these came off of BMW's.. I use side cutters to test each weight I had a question about. Lead crushed easily, zinc or other metal generally hurts my hand when I squeeze since it doesn't give at all. I found some lead weights that I thought were zinc simply based on size of the weight. I got curious since they seemed heavier than the like sized Zinc weights, used the side cutter trick and discovered I had more pure lead weights. I will continue to save any zinc weights I find.
Has anybody tried casting zinc into small round balls (buckshot sizes) for use with a wristrocket type slingshot? I would imagine that IF you could get a nice smooth fillout it would work pretty well in that application. Of course, it would take a whole lot of castin' to use up just a little of the alloy.
HI,
Stick_man you do know that they used to cast boolits out of zink, right?
And no I am not yanking your chain.
I have a .45 round ball single cavity mold. I will have to try that. I already have about 250 balls of pure lead cast up for just that purpose.Has anybody tried casting zinc into small round balls (buckshot sizes) for use with a wristrocket type slingshot? I would imagine that IF you could get a nice smooth fillout it would work pretty well in that application. Of course, it would take a whole lot of castin' to use up just a little of the alloy.
Drop a chunk of zink inside your radiator, on top of the core. If the zink is painted, sand it or grind it down to bare metal. It works great and will save your core, plus what ever else that would normally corrode in your coolant system.
Take it one step further and add soluble oil to your antifreeze. It will also lube your water pump.
If you run a flood coolant system on your lathe or mill, drop some in that tank as well.
So what exactly is soluable oil? Water soluable, I assume. Any brand names for us so it will be easier to find? Anything to keep my 200,000 mile Ranger going longer.
Try using Ballistol - mix it with H2O & you got Moose Milk - great muzzle loader cleaning solution, doesn't hurt the wood, prevents rust, OFTEN keeps THE WIFE away.
John Mc
NSSA, NRA Life.
Ballistol is heavenly-
Use about 6-8 oz per gallon in your rad system.
I have done extensive machining comparisons with Ballistol and cutting/machinging oils and machine soluable oils, and Ballistol out performs in all areas of machining including turning, drilling, and flood coolant.
It also out performs Mobil Vactra way oil, as it is slicker and stays on the surface longer. I have completely detoxed my machines and run only Ballistol now.
I was getting sinus problems and skin reations to the other oils, plus the soluable for flood coolant leaves a nasty varnish when it dries. Ballistol does not and keeps everything shiney.
I spent days scrubbing and draining my tanks and resiviors on all the machines with Purple Power cleaner. Now they are all spot clean and running Ballistol.
Even straight as a drilling oil, it works at least 40% better than rapid tap and other toxic cutting oil I've been using over the years. Steel and aluminum.
I have been having a hrad time sorting the ww with zinc from those that are "pure" ww. I am quite sure that i have shot a lot of cast ww/zinc boolits. Other than obvious barrel damage, whats the big deal about it? I might sound naive and a little dumb, but I am just curious. there are a lot of schools of thought on this topic, and i am still learning here. I obviously wont have to worry about any of that until this deployment is over, but i would like to go home armed with the knowledge so I can hit with a fevered frenzy when I get home!
Bullets.
Dumb Question 101, is zinc magnetic? thanks
So is zinc bad for your barrel or does it just make ugly bullets .My pot get a lot of that blue green purple color floating around in it .Guess that i shouldn't be putting any of those new shiny Lincoln cents in my pot .Have been doing that to make the lead a little harder ?? should i stop
I seen the being ask and the AL-MG is not be the make of the WW it is what type of rim it gose on and auto . I did a check on WW in the past to see what the writtien was about . ZN is zinc . but not all a mark .It depends on the maker of the WW. The orther Letters is like I wrote the typ of rim and auto they go on. I do the same as some post I slow melt the WW and the zinc float. I have not problem. Since I see to check the ones not sure of to use cutters to check I will do that also.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
I've always used side cutters. Zinc and steel are obvious. Run across some tougher lead ones but I throw them aside and smelt separately to test. Have never had a problem yet.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |