First Post! Hi guys I am Crutch. I hope you can help me out, if you would be so kind.

[44man]

You might need "small base" dies for the 7400 or loaded rounds will not chamber. Semi autos and pump guns usually need the lower part of the shell sized a little more.
Long ago I loaded the .270 for a Rem 760 and never had a problem using regular dies but I have seen many others where a round would not chamber. Easy to see by sizing a fired case and dropping it in the chamber to see if the action closes and locks easy.

[Bret4207]

I completely missed the progressive loader part. Ditto what the others said, hold off on that and start with a single stage press, a 1 or 2 cavity mould and aim for loads in the 14-1600 fps range to start with. You have a steep learning curve ahead.

[mdi]

Lots of advise so far, mostly good. I too recommend a single stage press as you will learn a lot of the "theories" about each step of reloading, and a progressive is not necessary unless you need 500+ rounds a week. FIRST though, I say get some reloading manuals. Lyman's Reloading handbook, ABCs of Reloading, Lee Modern Reloading, one or two from a bullet manufacturer and one or two from a powder manufacturer. These manuals have a "how to" section that covers most reloading proceedures questions. If you are going to cast or use cast boolits get Lymans Cast Bullet Handbook. It's easy to refer back to any one of these manuals and to compare load data (yes it does vary).

Reloading is a safe, fun, fulfilling part of shooting and you can get better than store bought ammo (customized ammo for your individual gun). Go slow and enjoy!

[Crutch]

Crutch.
You can fire the .270 with cast. You can crank them out!
Paper Patch!
I paper patch my .30s and run full tilt loads. Great stuff!
Welcome to this board.
They sure helped me.

I don't know what Paper patching is.

I think I better start reading up, before I even attempt my first bullet. I will look for those books you guys suggested.

Also, sorry I meant Lurker. LOL not troll. I just answered the Lurker Challege that was posted. I just don't see how you guys have the patience for noobs like me. Then again, you guys reload, so I guess that should answer it! A forum for snipers, you guys are great.

I honestly might not have the patience for this... however, I am rather in deep money wise.

[Crutch]

Will this one work? For my ak?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=767788

[snaggdit]

It fits the bill for what you seem to want to do. I would still urge you to try a gas check model. Buy a Lee mold and the push through sizer and gas checks and you will still be less than the lyman and the handles (which come separately and are backordered). Besides, if you have poor results you will sour on the whole idea fast. I would like to see you have success out of the gate. Just my input. Here is the one I would suggest:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=752956

[jdgabbard]

You are going to want a gas check. An alternative to buying checks is to buy either Pat Marlin's tool or a FreeChex II. They'll allow you to make checks out of soda cans and whatnot.

+1 on getting a single stage press to learn on. I own three, and wouldn't trade them for anything. Progressive is nice, althought I like to take the time to make sure each round is loaded to MY spec. Not just "shootable" spec.

+1 on doing some reading. Both from books and from here. Honestly, I spent probably two or three months doing nothing but reading books and reading article on the internet before I ever seated a primer. Take your time, be patient, and remember that you can still stock up on what you'll need without having to load it up. Learn first, and make fewer mistakes later.

[Edubya]

Crutch, if your in South-Central NC, you can come see what I've got and am doing. I did very little reloading prior to getting heavy into it about two years ago when I bought my Dillon 550 RL, a progressive loader.( I live in Pinehurst and have a small business in Aberdeen, if you're interested, send me a PM.) I've since got into casting and have cast several thousand bullets. I'm only shooting and loading pistols but I'm sure that many aspects are the same. I have learned a lot from this forum and a lot from the books. I would suggest that you do the same.

I use to buy my cast bullets from several different sources and was disappointed in most of them. The only commercial bullets (non-loaded) that I found that responded to my expectations were Speer and Hornady, they cost as much as most loaded target bullets. I figured that I could cast one that was as good as the Speer and Hornady and be able to shoot those good bullets 'til the sun goes down on my tired old a$$. I cannot say that I've achieved my goals yet but the journey has been enlightening!
Good luck, whichever way that you go,
EW

[Recluse]

Howdy and welcome to the World's Largest Small Town.

First, sell the Loadmaster. You indicated you might not have the patience for this--if you don't, the Loadmaster will guarantee you THE most miserable experience ever trying to grasp, then master the art and science of reloading.

And lest you think I'm bashing Lee, please don't--my bench is probably 60% or better "red" (Lee equipment) including my beloved old Pro1000 that has caused MANY a reloader--experienced and novice alike--to swear off reloading forever. I love the thing.

But the Loadmaster. . . . ugh. And for a brand new novice who's yet to even pull the handle. . . double ugh.

In over thirty years, I have yet to load up any rifle round on a progressive press. Now, if I start shooting more .223 or 7.62x39, I may go back and get another Dillon 550B. Fantastic press, but not a good machine to do load development. Even worse to try and learn reloading with.

My suggestion is to get the Lee Classic Cast single stage, OR the Lee Classic Turret. The Turret is a good compromise between the rapidity of an indexing progressive press versus a single stage. I'm thinking very hard about adding a Classic Turret to my bench for just that same reason.

Gas checks? Absolutely. No ifs, ands or buts about it. If it's 30 caliber and going to fire out of one of my guns, it gets a gas check--no exceptions whatsoever. It's a huge variable I can instantly eliminate by gas-checking the boolits.

At around $30/1000, you're not really adding much at all to the overall cost of reloading for long gun calibers. But what you'll gain in consistency, ability to increase velocity, accuracy, less or no leading. . . the extra penny or two per round will seem like the smartest thing you ever did.

I agree with starting your learning curve with the SKS. I picked up a Lee .3121552R mould a while back specifically for my SKS. Helluva good boolit! I've developed a good load for it in my 30-06 as well, and am real close to having a great load for my Enfield .303 as well. Three different firearms, one fine boolit. You gotta love casting and reloading.

The .270? Sure you can, it's just going to take a bit of time and experimenting. Not everyone who casts does so to mimic factory loads. I certainly don't. Often times, I do it to best and exceed factory loads and that often times means lowering my velocities, believe it or not.

Quite honestly, I'd expend my gray-matter energies on learning the fundamentals of reloading first, then casting, but that's just me.

Anyhow, again, welcome to a great world.

[Slow Elk 45/70]

++++++ for what everyone is saying, all good info, also look at the Goatlips stickie for getting started casting, tools eqt. methods, check out the LASC site for a ton of casting info also, don't be timid about asking questions, give as much info as possible to get good answers without a lot of questions. Good Luck and Welcome.

[Goatlips]

Thanks for the plug, Slow Elk;

Crutch, here's my beginner's site that may be useful for a few things but just coming to Cast Boolits is the best step you'll have taken. This thread should serve as an example of how an interested prospective caster and reloader is treated by the real pros.

http://goatlipstips.cas-town.com/index.html

Goatlips

[Bob Krack]

Hi Crutch,

Welcome. I too, have and have had many aspirations that might have been associated with one or more of the "survivalist movements".

Mostly all really good advice you have received so far (here). 'Specially, leave the progressive loader in it's box 'til you have advanced a whole bunch.

First off, Lee makes a very "light duty" press that many use just for push through sizing. They sell it AND their loading and instruction manual for any place from $29 to $50. That will be fine for you to start with and may very well become your sizer/de-capper/neck sizer/or boolit seater station. Again, 'specially until you gain lots more experience.

As for operating your semi-autos, the heavier the boolit - the better your chance for sucess (in my opinion). The heavier the boolit, the higher the gas pressure for a given velocity (generally speaking). Sounds to me like your goal is to shoot a bunch rather than drive tacks?

Gas checks are another subject by themselves. Generally, gas checks are good for rifles. More accuracy, more consistency, less "leading?".

Inexpensive gas check makers are available as mentioned above. Fillers can work but that is another whole new subject. Plain base boolits can be made to work fairly well, and yes, one mould can work for all three .30s. Paper-Patching is another method to possibly solve the leading and accuracy issues. A small thin piece of paper is wrapped around a boolit and then loaded - paper and all. "Paper Patching" is the forum here that will make you want to know lots more on forget about it.

On to more confusion and hopefully on to much more knowledge!

Bob

[6.5 mike]

Hi crutch. Listen to the others about the books, presses & lee moulds/sizers. I've been loading my own on a single stage rcbs rockchucker I bought new in a navy exchange in 1973, gives you some idea how long, with a little care, one of this will last.
I'm farly new to the world of cast boolits also, but ,with the help from the folks here have learned more then I though possible. All you have to do is ask ,someone here will answer. And if we don't have the answer, we'll find it. welcome to the best thing i've found on the net.

[Bigscot]

Crutch,

I'm up the road from Edubya in Apex. If your close by I would be glad to help you out.

Edubya, where do you shoot? We should get together sometime. I get to Ed's every so often. Am due a visit there soon.

Bigscot

[TAWILDCATT]

I agree that a progressive is not the way to start.BUT I DISAGREE ON THE SINGLE STAGE.I do recomend the lee turret,either the regular or the cast.BECAUSE YOU CAN USE IT AS A SINGLE STAGE AND HAVE ALL YOUR DIES KEPT IN THE TURRET.
I have a couple and have powder measures dedicated to one load on the turret.
as to the loadmaster I have a friend that does commersial loading who has very good luck withe the loadmaster,but he is a machinist that under stands how to run them,as I do.I have them all single, turrets.old and new.I believe the cast bullets for the SKS are heavy 150 gr which works the action,with less presure.
if one was a machinist he could bush the gas hole smaller and it would not slam so hard.the gun is made to slam,so it will work in combat.

[Pepe Ray]

TAWILDCATT;
I would have said that but didn't want to start a stink.
""
I agree that a progressive is not the way to start.BUT I DISAGREE ON THE SINGLE STAGE.I do recomend the lee turret,either the regular or the cast.BECAUSE YOU CAN USE IT AS A SINGLE STAGE AND HAVE ALL YOUR DIES KEPT IN THE TURRET. ""

Also, spending someone elses money is a Demo. trick I don't partake in.
Carry on,
Pepe Ray

[testhop]

welcome aboard .
you have been given some very good jnfo from some highly experanced loaders and casters .
i would add the 270 is fractory loaded hot up to 54000 psi.
the 270 is my favorate deer rifles .
i load the 110 gr hornady loaded down to 2700 fps and it kills like the hammer of thor .
this is something to keep in mind for your light load.

[bingo]

Crutch welcome

I am assuming you sluged your barrels and you are giving us the bore dia. Boolit fit to bore is most inportant. Generally 1 or 2 .000 over bore works well.

Buy a Lee 312-155 or 160 2 banger ( not expensive). Start with the sks and see what they drop at(softer alloy will make bigger boolits). If they are not bigger than 313 then hone out the mold or Beagle it(you can find threade on both). Lets say you get 315 boolits but they are to big for the aks. Just get a Lee sizer or 2 (about $15) and size to 313 314, and you can set the gas checks at the same time.

This will get you one mold for all 3 rifles. Hope this helps.

Note: shooting cast in semi autos is fine but pay special attn. to cleaning your gas cyl.

Bingo

[bingo]

Correction on my last post.

Harder alloy makes bigger boolits.

Bingo

[looseprojectile]

Bore is different than Groove. Bore is smaller than groove. Therefore groove is larger than bore. Most boolits work better if they are a little larger than groove.
Sorry, one of my pet peeves.

Life is good