Mouls storage

[wrcook]

This is more out of curiosity than anything else. Way back when I began casting I was always taught to store a mould with a boolit in the cavity. How many of you do this and do you do it with all types of moulds, Lyman , Lee, Dixie, etc. Why or why not?

Bill C

[wrcook]

That is Mould storage

[462]

Don't do it with Lee, but do so with RCBS and Lyman. Wrap them in plastic, too. Salty and humid air, here.

[454PB]

It works OK for short term storage of steel moulds, but I wouldn't trust it for long term storage. Lube them for that, then degrease again for the next use.

[RBak]

It works OK for short term storage of steel moulds, but I wouldn't trust it for long term storage. Lube them for that, then degrease again for the next use.

I gotta agree with 454. I believe this is most likely the best way.

Can't say I know "the right way" to store moulds, as I've tried about everything over the years.
The one thing I do know for sure is that you should never spray 'em down with WD-40 and wrap 'em with wax-paper for storage....this leaves a nasty, ugly mess after a just a few years.
I can't say that it "hurts" 'em in anyway, but the varnish build-up is tough to get off.

Russ..

[Charlie Sometimes]

I do not store with boolits in the mold- I clean them after use and oil. If at all possible, I leave them in the original boxes, and add silica gel desicant packets, or VCI antirust paper for extra protection.

I have bought molds that have had the last boolit cast left in them- for decades. I don't think it helps protect the mold surface from corrosion at all- some have been very difficult to get apart after a long term storage condition like that. That last bullet can be inadvertently left beyond your control for various reasons- health, death, loss of interest, etc. ,and it makes for a difficult time inspecting them.

[Echo]

I've heard that a boolit left in the mould will encourage rust/corrosion due to air working in and out (temp changes). Can't say for sure - not much humidity around here, and I don't do anything to my moulds when I put them up - just put them up.

[longbow]

I always leave a boolit in the cavity and oil as well.

I figure that capillary action will hold the oil around the boolit better that way. I normally use 3 in 1 or light gun oil. Anyway, this has worked for me with no rust ever.

I agree with RussB on WD 40. It is good for its pupose but that isn't long term storage.

Longbow

[leadman]

I bought 5 Lyman 4 cavity moulds that had the boolits left in the cavities. The guy said the moulds were sitting on a bench in the barn for at least 5 years. There was light rust on the outside of the moulds and some on the inside along the bottom. There was no corrosion in the cavities at all, they look like new.
I figure that would change in a couple more years if the moulds were left in the barn.
Now, this is in the desert south of Phoenix, Az. Probably would not be as lucky in a different climate.

[Balhincher]

I have stored my iron molds the same way for nearly 40 years and have not had a rust problem using this system. They are kept in a basement that is a bit damp at certain times of the year and non protected steel or iron will rust if left unprotected.
About the only thing about casting bullets I don't like is cleaning oil off molds to get them casting w/o wrinkles. While I'm sure oiling molds will reliably protect them and may even be the best way, I don't do that. I take the blocks off the mold handles, put the blocks in their original boxes, and store them in 50 cal ammo cans with VPI powder I bought from Brownells many years ago. This powder is supposed to fill a space with corrosion inhibiting vapor of some kind and seems to work for me. And as far as I can tell it doesn't leave any residue on the molds that keeps them from working right away.

[R.C. Hatter]

I have stored my moulds in an airtight plastic food storage box for over 15 years with no oil on them. I use VPI powder, as provided by Brownell's, in a plastic jar lid, as well as the little dessicant canisters out of medicine bottles. The storage box is kept in a cabinet in my shop, which is in my garage. I have not experienced any rust on moulds thus far.

[Bret4207]

Anytime you have dissimilar metals in close contact there is the chance for corrosion. I used to do as you say, but since dedicating an old, dead refrigerator to mould and powder storage I just make sure they're dry, make sure the light bulb in the fridge is working and the desiccant box is still good and I have no rust issues, even here in the wet northeast.

[TAWILDCATT]

I have a winchester mold that I got in 1937 and have kept bullets in it.every few yrs I get the urge to cast and leave the new one in it its still as good as new,since the new fangled zip locks I put the molds in them.

[cajun shooter]

I talked to the head pharmacist at my Wally World and they saved the little packs that come in all the bottles for me. After about 2 weeks I have all I can use and just store the molds in ammo cans with them.

[wallenba]

I wonder if filling them with grease, then freezing them when taking them out of storage would allow you to just knock out most of the mess as frozen grease boolit? Can't hurt to try. Or, you could try obtaining some VCI packing material, some here with MIL specs http://www.vci2000.com/

[curiousgeorge]

I bought a can of spray-on mold release from Midway about 10 years ago. Turns out to be the best rust inhibitor I have ever found. Before and again after use, I put a light coat on the inside and outside of my iron block molds. Long term storage in a damp basement in 50 cal ammo cans. Absolutely no rusting.

Used to do the bullet in the mold with grease but what a clean up mess when ready to use again.

Check out the spray. I was really surprised.

[MtGun44]

No need to go to all the trouble to oil or grease, then clean the darned stuff back off if
you keep your molds in a low humidity environment. Many ways to do this, several have
been mentioned already. Another is milsurp dessicant packs, redried in the oven at
about 150F or less overnight in a 50 cal or SAW (larger than 50 cal but very similar)
surplus ammo box. Let the mold cool, put it into the ammo box along with many others
and change out dessicant packs periodically. Zero mold corrosion in last 29 yrs.

+1 on possible corrosion with dissimilar metals, altho lead in not very reactive compared
to most others. For certain, a boolit does not seal and will not actually protect
against corrosion for the long term in a humid environment. In a house that is air
conditioned, corrosion is far less of a problem than it was for me growing up in
FLA and VA without AC. Guns and everything associated with them needed to
be oiled and greased and wiped down regularly, and I still have some damage to
my guns that I got as a teen. Molds in non-AC conditions in the wet parts of the US
definitely need help, either a dry box of some sort or oil and grease.

Bill

[shooterg]

Those plastic treated "no-rust" (Bianchi Blue, The Inhibitor/etc.) bags for handguns work well.

[jimkim]

I bought a can of spray-on mold release from Midway about 10 years ago. Turns out to be the best rust inhibitor I have ever found. Before and again after use, I put a light coat on the inside and outside of my iron block molds. Long term storage in a damp basement in 50 cal ammo cans. Absolutely no rusting.

Used to do the bullet in the mold with grease but what a clean up mess when ready to use again.

Check out the spray. I was really surprised.

+1 This works for me too.

[armyrat1970]

I have never stored my molds for very long with out use and just keep them in the original boxes. Lee aluminum molds though. Don't have any iron molds. I don't see why simply applying a light coat of gun oil or 3-in-1 oil to the mold and storing in a zip lock bag for storage would present a problem though. When you want to use the mold again just clean it as if it was new. Not a lot of work involved.