Ceiling fan light

[abunaitoo]

I'm always amazed the the vast knowledge of our members.
So I try to ask here after not getting an answer from the web.
Question is........
I wan to replace a ceiling fan is a room.
The new fans all come with LED lights in them that is controlled with the hand remote.
I want to control the light with the light switch like a normal room light, but have the fan controlled with the romote.
Before, with the old lights, I could just bypass the main controller, and wire in the light to the switch, run another bypass around the switch to control the fan.
I'm sure I can't do that with these new fans, as the LED has it's own converter/controller built in to the main box.
I know someone here has figured out a way to do this.

[oldblinddog]

Did you ask Grok?

“Yes, this is often still possible with many modern ceiling fans that have integrated LED lights and a remote receiver, using essentially the same approach you used before: give the receiver constant power so the remote can control the fan, and feed the light directly from the wall switch.
How modern remote + LED fans typically work
The receiver (the small box that goes in the canopy) usually has:
• Input side: Black (hot/AC IN L) + white (neutral/AC IN N) — these need continuous power.
• Output side: Black (to motor), blue (to light), and white (neutral).
Many fans still use a standard blue wire for the light that expects 120V AC. In those cases the LED driver is either in the light kit itself or the receiver simply switches 120V to it. You can bypass just the light portion of the receiver.
Important caveats:
• DC motor fans almost always need the receiver for the motor (it converts AC to the DC the motor uses and handles the multiple speeds). You cannot fully remove the receiver if you want the fan to work, but you can still bypass only the light output.
• Some fully integrated LED systems have the driver inside the receiver and send a proprietary low-voltage or specific signal to the LEDs. Those cannot be safely bypassed by connecting 120V directly to the light wires.
• Bypassing may void the warranty and can disable features like color-temperature control, dimming memory, or certain remote light functions.
• Always shut off power at the breaker and verify with a tester.
Typical wiring to get what you want
(Assumes you already have or can create an always-hot feed for the fan/receiver and a switched-hot for the light, exactly as you did on the old fan.)
1. Receiver power (always on):
House always-hot → receiver black (AC IN L)
House neutral → receiver white (AC IN N)
2. Fan motor:
Receiver black (TO MOTOR) → fan black wire
3. Light (wall-switch controlled):
House switched-hot (the wire controlled by your light switch, often the red if you have 12/3 or 14/3 cable) → fan blue wire
Cap off the receiver’s blue (FOR LIGHT) wire — do not connect it.
4. Neutrals: All white wires together.
5. Grounds: All green/bare together.
Result:
• Wall light switch turns the LED light on/off like a normal light.
• Remote controls fan speeds (and any other fan functions).
• You can have the fan running with the light off, or vice versa.
If you only have a single switched hot in the ceiling
You will need the same “bypass around the switch” arrangement you used before so the receiver always has power. The wall switch then only controls the light leg.
Practical tips
• Open the canopy and look at the actual receiver labels and the fan’s blue wire before cutting or rearranging anything. Many receivers clearly mark “FOR LIGHT” or “TO LIGHT.”
• Check the fan’s installation manual for the wiring diagram and any notes about the light kit voltage.
• If the light does not come on when you apply switched 120V to the blue wire (after capping the receiver’s light output), the LEDs are probably driven by a proprietary output and the bypass will not work safely.
• Some people successfully use a wall dimmer on the light leg when the output is standard 120V AC, but confirm the LED is dimmable and the driver supports it.
• If the fan is a no-name or heavily integrated “smart” model, the bypass is less likely to work cleanly.

If you can tell me the exact brand/model of the new fan (or post a photo of the receiver wiring labels and the light connection), I can give more precise guidance. Otherwise the method above is the standard, widely used approach that matches what you did previously. When in doubt, an electrician can confirm the voltages and make the connections safely.”

[Sig]

Probably doable if you have 14/3 wire from the switch to the fan. You need 2 switched hot legs. One for the fan & one for the lights. You will bypass the remote controller light wire (usually) blue & connect it directly to one of the 14/3 switch wires.