Suppressors and Powder Coated boolits

[murf205]

I couldn't find a place that this might have been a better fir so if the Mods want to move it to the proper nest, go ahead.
In my curious reading about suppressors, I have seen a countless warnings about lead build up in baffles and other internals of a can. My question today is, will powder coating and gas checks reduce this enough ti warrant shooting cast through a .360 or larger can. I don't have any experience with suppressed guns by with Lyman's prices, that could change. I know that suppressed 22 rimfire guns were the first ones I encountered and most of the sub sonic ammo was not plated, that I know of. My first choice would be a .360 can on a SSK 357 Max barrel, loaded down to sub sonic of course. What are the experiences of those who have tried this?

[Meatpuppet]

I’m shooting 300gr, 357 Maximum through a Liberty Infinity X. Powder coating definitely reduces leading. But you still have residue that builds up. I usually clean the baffles every 6 months or so (I’d estimate 300 rounds) and it’s not difficult. If you are going the suppressor route with PC bullets, make sure is user serviceable.

I don’t use gas checks with suppressors. Afraid of a gas check coming off in the suppressor.

22LR suppressed is nasty. I clean after every other range trip.

[Balrog006]

I’m shooting 300gr, 357 Maximum through a Liberty Infinity X. Powder coating definitely reduces leading. But you still have residue that builds up. I usually clean the baffles every 6 months or so (I’d estimate 300 rounds) and it’s not difficult. If you are going the suppressor route with PC bullets, make sure is user serviceable.

I don’t use gas checks with suppressors. Afraid of a gas check coming off in the suppressor.

22LR suppressed is nasty. I clean after every other range trip.

Agreed, 22LR is leagues worse than any PC lead boolits in a can.

I think the buildup in a can with PC boolits is *mostly* powder and burned PC buildup and can probably be ‘shot out’ with a few high pressure jacketed rounds between sessions with cast PC boolits.

Ideally yes, you want user serviceable cans for cast PC, but with ultrasonic means and ‘blast’ cleaning them, it’s pretty much a non issue if you use one that is sealed.

[atfsux]

Here is a newly discovered trick to treat the internals of your cans to make cleanup easier and prevent buildup.

Go buy some welding anti-spatter compound. There are untold numerous brands and versions, comes in spray cans, gallon jugs, squeeze bottles and various other ways, and because this is a new thing suppressor owners have just recently discovered to use, there is not yet a known preferred concoction that works best. HOWEVER,...be aware that older formulations are petroleum-based and can be flammable, while newer formulas are water-based in a quest to be less toxic. I do not yet have enough experience myself to tell you if there is a performance difference, whether one formula adheres and sticks to the internals longer than another or anything like that. But what I can tell you is that cleaning up my .22lr cans has become MUCH less a chore and less often. .22 cans are subjected to less blast and pressure than 9mm or .45 cans, so those types may need re-treatment more often or not retain the internal applied coating as long.

I went and bought a full 1-gallon of this stuff here off of Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRYXDBP3...ect=mhFallback and have transferred it into a cleaned 1-gallon glass pickle jar so I have a wide lid opening through which I just dunk my entire suppressor after cleaning and reassembly, let drain, then store for later use once again.

You don't have to do it that way. You can just use a spray can or bottle on the internals while you have it apart and do it that way. There's no right or wrong way yet, as guys are still experimenting with this stuff for this purpose. I'm just the kind of dude who figures more is better, so I do the dunking treatment thing. You mileage may vary.