RotoMetals2Titan ReloadingLee Precision

Donate Now Goal amount for this year: 4000 USD, Received: 1570 USD (39%)
Our Annual server fund drive is going on now! This donation drive helps fund Cast Boolits for an entire year, and helps support our 2nd amendment rights! You can donate by Paypal by clicking the DONATE button. Or by Cash / Check / MO to the address below:

Willy Snyder
PO Box 2732
Pocatello, ID 83206


Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 46 of 46

Thread: Hollowpoint cavity designs

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
    Balrog006's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2025
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by theangrydangler View Post
    I've been eyeballing both of those myself. Please let me know how they fit in 350 legend.
    What diameter do you size to for yours? Is it an semi or bolt?

    The NOE 247gr is essentially a copy of the Lyman 358318. Ordered the NOE on their restart sale this spring but have yet to break it in.

    The .358 Win is a nice shooter with most things I’ve tried in the standard range, have yet to experiment with the NEI 300gr though.
    “Cui prodest?” Lucius Annaeus Seneca

  2. #42
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    54
    I am powder coating but not quenching. I let them air cool. The 1,1,98 does well at the 1400 fps but marginal from my revolver at 1000fps. Ill post some pics tomorrow after testing a softer alloy in the 357's. 2,2,96 is phenomenal from the 350 legend.

  3. #43
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by Balrog006 View Post
    What diameter do you size to for yours? Is it an semi or bolt?

    The NOE 247gr is essentially a copy of the Lyman 358318. Ordered the NOE on their restart sale this spring but have yet to break it in.

    The .358 Win is a nice shooter with most things I’ve tried in the standard range, have yet to experiment with the NEI 300gr though.
    Im running 350 legend from a couple ar15's 16" and 10.5" i size them to .356

  4. #44
    Boolit Buddy
    Balrog006's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2025
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by theangrydangler View Post
    I am powder coating but not quenching. I let them air cool. The 1,1,98 does well at the 1400 fps but marginal from my revolver at 1000fps. Ill post some pics tomorrow after testing a softer alloy in the 357's. 2,2,96 is phenomenal from the 350 legend.
    Gotcha, I have lots of COWW and 95:3:2 among other things-I should be able to figure out something.

    It’ll be for a bolt gun for me, so not sure if comparable with an AR style.
    “Cui prodest?” Lucius Annaeus Seneca

  5. #45
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by Balrog006 View Post
    Gotcha, I have lots of COWW and 95:3:2 among other things-I should be able to figure out something.

    It’ll be for a bolt gun for me, so not sure if comparable with an AR style.
    You'll get a little more velocity for the same charge than my ar15s. Play around with your alloys in small batches and test them. A $99 block of ballistic gel and a chronograph are well worth the investment. i think my chrono was around $140. I think it's absolutely a must have for handloading and shooting in general especially with cast. Take measurements at a few different ranges and put them into a BC calculator to find an accurate number to input into a trajectory calculator. Test your bullet at different velocities to find your minimum and maximum velocity for good expansion and compare to trajectory calculator to find effective range and holds. Most alloys do best within a 300-400 fps spread.

  6. #46
    Boolit Buddy
    Balrog006's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2025
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by theangrydangler View Post
    You'll get a little more velocity for the same charge than my ar15s. Play around with your alloys in small batches and test them. A $99 block of ballistic gel and a chronograph are well worth the investment. i think my chrono was around $140. I think it's absolutely a must have for handloading and shooting in general especially with cast. Take measurements at a few different ranges and put them into a BC calculator to find an accurate number to input into a trajectory calculator. Test your bullet at different velocities to find your minimum and maximum velocity for good expansion and compare to trajectory calculator to find effective range and holds. Most alloys do best within a 300-400 fps spread.
    Already set on the chrono. Yes gel is best, but water jugs and wet pack still work even though they’re a more simplistic and somewhat less telling medium.

    I’ve been reloading for 20 some years and they’re indispensable tools for this craft for sure-but getting more into cast reloading and casting the last few years.
    “Cui prodest?” Lucius Annaeus Seneca

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check