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Thread: Brass moulds

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master Maven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    5,074
    I have two Cast Bullet Engineering (Jim Allison) moulds: heavy, need a bit more heat, but cast very well. Also, several Tanner [round] ball moulds for my muzzleloading long guns, which cast quite nicely with pure Pb when up to temperature.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    8
    One brass mold, a few iron and many aluminum molds. Brass one becomes so heavy that I can't doing as much casting compared to all the others in one session. But then I am old codger!

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy

    xringshutr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    SE Nebraska
    Posts
    167
    I love my brass molds......but I see periodic "tinning" on the mold faces at the edge of the bullet cavities........easy to remedy with a toothpick or other small wooden object, but can be annoying when you are in an intense casting session that is raining boolits......until some slight finning or whiskers start showing up. This tinning could be a product of higher temps needed to run the brass mold or other? Anyone want to weigh in on this?

  4. #24
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Aug 2026
    Posts
    12
    I have about 2 dozen brass molds in 22, 30, 35, 45, 475, 50 and 51 calibers. Mostly MP molds both hp and flat point and one Mountain mold.

    Personally, my favorite mold material is cast iron, followed by steel, aluminum and then brass. I find brass is the most sensitive to temperature, it's like the goldilocks material that doesn't like to be too hot or too cold but wants to be just right. Also as mentioned it is dense (heavy) especially the four cavities. That being said, MP makes IMHO to highest quality multi cavity molds produced today, and so I deal with brass because that is the primary material MP uses to make their outstanding molds.

    The one tip I'll add is prior to casting with brass, clean them with a toothbrush and mild detergent (like any mold), then bake them in an oven at 350 deg for an hour or so. This will develop a patina (oxide layer) and this will prevent the mold surface from picking up lead alloy (tinning).

    I won't hesitate to buy more brass MP molds, as good as it gets IMHO

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy Echo#154's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2025
    Location
    Northern Arkansas
    Posts
    167
    I have both brass and aluminum molds from Noe and Accurate. I cast kinda slow “slow is fast, smooth is speed”. I like brass because it holds temperature better with my casting style, especially during cold winter days in the garage (I have a vent fan connected to a dryer hose that is near the top of my pot)….but I’m not a fan of the weight over aluminum as I get older! My last two were aluminum four bangers. I have one brass four banger the other ones in brass are only doubles. I get good bullets out of both…I just have to move “smoother” with the aluminum molds.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,396
    Started with Al Lee molds - probably 30 of them.
    Then I switched to brass about 7 years ago (currently 12 of them) and will never go back. The quality of the boolits is far better than with Al due to the heat factor. You just gotta practice and get used to it.

    Now I have dups of all my popular cals/sizes/weights in brass and Al.

    They weigh more so those casters with physical impairments may struggle on long casting sessions.

    And they don't damage easily like Al does.....all while looking VERY impressive on the shelf.

    Brass all the way for me, baby!

    banger

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    8,082
    I have considered buying a brass mold but have resisted. They sure look nice! Most of my molds are iron with a few recent Accurate aluminum molds added to the stable.

    I have enjoyed everyones replys. Thanks!

  8. #28
    Boolit Master

    405grain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Modesto, Ca.
    Posts
    2,436
    Something that I haven't seen pointed out yet is that brass molds need to be prepped prior to use. Lead alloys will solder to brass and copper, but not if those metals have an oxide coat. There's prep work on any new mold (brass, iron, or aluminum) before it's ready for use. This might be as simple as removing any rust preventative oils, or could be more complicated based on the molds design and materials. On brass molds the mold blocks need to be heated until they take on a patina. This will be noticed as a small change in color of the surface of the brass. The patina is an oxide coating, and once formed the lead should no longer adhere to the brass surface. The one brass mold that I own works flawlessly, and perfect bullets fall easily from the mold. That being said, I prefer iron molds above both aluminum and brass.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check