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Thread: Is shooting a revolver with scope incrediably difficult?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


    Ickisrulz's Avatar
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    Is shooting a revolver with scope incrediably difficult?

    I have a brand new BFR in 500 S&W Magnum. I put a 2X Burris Handgun Scope on it. I used the supplied MR rail and 4 Weigand scope rings. I used loctite and everything is nice and tight when I pull and twist on it. It does not budge. I have tried two loads both using 350 grain plated bullets. One load was 38 grains of W296 and the other 16 grains of Unique.

    When shooting from 20 yards off a rest, I have 3 bullets go into the center of a 3 inch target. The other two go a foot high or low.

    I have another BFR in 45-70 that has an Ultradot on it. I have no trouble hitting 6 inch targets from 60 yards with that gun.

    I'm thinking I am the cause of the 500 S&W not hitting where I want it to, but not sure what my problem is. It's not because I am flinching. The 45-70 loads I am shooting have much more recoil than the 500.

    Are revolvers with scopes really hard to master?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
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    Assuming you are not the culprit, not flinching or jerking the trigger, my next guess would be that the scope has failed under the pounding and something is rattling or bouncing erratically inside causing the cross hairs to wander. Where I have a problem is off hand. The scope seems to exagerate my wobbles to the point where every shot is an experiment.
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  3. #3
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    IMO no , but I find I need to watch myself more

    But over 3X IMO is tougher

    But as for the 2 odd shots
    I have had that happen , when it was ME
    Also something I would also check is the scope
    I had a Leuplod scope that worked perfectly
    Until I mounted it on the Savage 110 with the 458 Win Mag barrel
    Then it would throw a flier after several shots with 500 gr factory ammo
    I called Leupold and they checked the scope and replaced it

    John
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    OK, I know this is pretty far out but...........

    Have you tried marking the charge holes of the flier shots? If so, are they the same ones each time? The reason I ask is perhaps the cylinder throat in those charge holes may be enough different to cause the different impact point. I suppose you could measure them and achieve the same end result, but where's the fun in that? Like I said, pretty far out but a thought, nevertheless.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by roysha View Post
    OK, I know this is pretty far out but...........

    Have you tried marking the charge holes of the flier shots? If so, are they the same ones each time? The reason I ask is perhaps the cylinder throat in those charge holes may be enough different to cause the different impact point. I suppose you could measure them and achieve the same end result, but where's the fun in that? Like I said, pretty far out but a thought, nevertheless.
    That idea crossed my mind. I have to load up some more ammo and will take a look at that.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnch View Post
    IMO no , but I find I need to watch myself more

    But over 3X IMO is tougher

    But as for the 2 odd shots
    I have had that happen , when it was ME
    Also something I would also check is the scope
    I had a Leuplod scope that worked perfectly
    Until I mounted it on the Savage 110 with the 458 Win Mag barrel
    Then it would throw a flier after several shots with 500 gr factory ammo
    I called Leupold and they checked the scope and replaced it

    John
    I was getting bad shots with a starting charge of 12 grains of Unique. That was like shooting a 38. The scope really hasn't been battered. It could be a factory defect. But I think it is me. Just not sure why.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    If I’m reading what you’re saying correctly, it’s perfectly logical for these two loads to hit at completely different POI’s. It’s like that with shooting 38spl loads out of a .357mag revolver and then shooting 357mag loads. The bullet stays in the barrel longer at the lower velocity with the 38spl and hits at a higher point.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Scopes on revolvers are no harder to shoot than any other pistol. I would first look at if the scope internals are moving, then mounting issues.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    I didn't shoot 2 different loads at the same time. I tried each one separately and ended up with the same results. Terrible groups at 20 yards.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    Scopes on revolvers are no harder to shoot than any other pistol. I would first look at if the scope internals are moving, then mounting issues.
    How can I tell if the internals are moving? Just shake it?

  11. #11
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    There are four possibilities.
    1. It is the scope. Put the Ultradot on it and see if that solves the problem.
    2. It is the load/bullet. Weight sort your bullets rigorously. Adjust the load +/- 0.1 grain steps in a ladder test.
    3. It is you. Concentrate on consistency in your shooting. Since you are shooting the .45-70 well, this is less likely.
    4. It is the gun. Have a competent gunsmith assess and then either return the gun or have the gunsmith modify or repair.
    USMC 6638

  12. #12
    Boolit Master knitepoet's Avatar
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    Shooting heavy recoiling handguns off a rest can be difficult. Depending on how you rest it, and how much downward pressure you put on the gun against the front rest, you can cause all sort of vertical stringing.

    Easiest solution I know of, (from the late gunwriter Dan Johnson) put your wrist on your front rest. Steadies you, but also helps ensure even, consistent pressure on the gip
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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have shot scoped handguns for decades, single shots and revolvers. The 500S&W recoil is going to give any handgun scope a run for its money (especially in a single action revolver), because of the severe recoil, but the 350gr bullets are on the light side for the caliber. If the objective lense is too close to the muzzle break vents, it is going to take a real beating. You have demonstrated consistent accuracy with a very similar package, so I am thinking operator error is low on the possibily list.

    As has been stated barrel harmonics effected by differences in contact points and pressure with the rest can be a factor (usually only a problem if the resting on a hard surface), but since you have demonstrated consistent accuracy with another similar weapon, not likely the source of current problem.

    Reloads could be an issue, but again you have demonstrated consistency with another weapon and loads.

    With a revolver, there are several chances for slight mis-alignment of the cylinder to barrel. With the 500S&W, the cylinder gap must be very small in order to avoid gas cutting the top strap of the revolver. The forcing cone of the barrel must be heat treated and face polished. Any imperceptable warpage in treating or imprecision in polishing can be critical for the 500S&W, more than other calibers because of the extremely close barrel gap required. Also because of the small gap and extreme pressure and heat, with repeated shots, the gap can start to change with subsequent consecutive shots from the same cylinder,, effecting accuracy. As others have stated, boring on cylinders of any revolver is another possible source of error. Machining on the external cylinder stop notches could vary as well. The concept of a revolver was meant for shooting a man sized target at spitting distances. Only extreme precision in modern machining and manufacturing would make putting a scope on one anything other than ridiculous. You have to find a way to systematically isolate each of these variables to find a problem, and with revolvers, it can be a bit of a "wack-a-mole" experience since most of us do not have the means or knowledge to measure the slight imprecisions that could effect accuracy. If the imprecision is in the cylinder, those are easy enough to replace, although not inexpensive. I would hope it is a busted scope, that will be the cheapest "fix".

    Dan Wesson heavy revolvers DOMINATED 200yd IHMSA association matches back in the day, and still shoot that way to. They have been the ONLY revolvers I use scoped for long range revolver work for decades. That is not to denegrate any other brand. BFR's are extemely well executed revolvers within the design limitations of a single action design. At the heart of DW super accuracy is the fact the the barrel is held in TENSION between the frame and the end of the barrel SHROUD, and the shroud also protects the inner barrel from any contact that could change barrel harmonics shot to shot. S&W actually consulted with Dan Wesson and used some of the DW design principles first in the X-frame revolvers (500S&W, 460S&W) and later in other revolver models, after the Dan Wesson patents expired. So the S&W X-frames acutally have the same inherent accuracy potential of the DW's. S&W are the ones who had to pioneer heat treated and polished forcing conces, and reduce barrel gaps even further than DW, because of the exteme pressures of the X-frame calibers (60,000psi.)

    Anyway, here is hoping you find something that is easy and cheap to. I always start at the easiest and cheapest and work my way up the troubleshooting list in that order.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check